ktm1217
Kyle
@lone wolf you got that right! Those 200t's are so overpriced. I'd love to get one but everyone wants an arm and a leg for them since they're such sought after saws.
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ktm1217
Kyle
Now; who can give me tips on tuning this thing? The carburetor seems so sensitive. It seems that when it's idling OK, the high speed needle is bottomed out and only produces 11,500+/- rpm. I tried starting it out multiple times preset 1 turn out and each needle, but can't seem to get it right. It's got a dual port muffler on it.
Could be a problem with that carb, 1 out on stock OEM should work and be close. Is it an OEM carb or aftermarket cause they vary on how many turns out?
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There it is!
I have run into yet another problem with that switch rod on an 066. Sometimes the fast idle is never set after releasing the choke. Instead, it drops all the way down to low idle. Saws in general like to start on fast idle and if that drops down to low idle, you will also have severe starting problems. Not the case here but be on the lookout.
ktm1217
Kyle
Thanks Wood Doctor! And @lone wolf - you think it's the carb? It is an aftermarket one. I was thinking it's something with the way I'm adjusting it with the dual port muffler on it. I went 1 turn out on the high and low sides. The low side was then close, but sometimes would be idle good and then drop down to the point of almost stalling. And then the high end was only making 11,500 or so rpm's, and the H screw was about bottomed out.
I just put an aftermarket carb on an ms290 that I also rebuilt and opened up the muffler on and it fired right up. Tachs right out to spec and everything.
That's why I don't really think it's the carb on this. Maybe I'll try the other one I have that came on it and see if it makes a difference. Been busy lately with the snow here in PA but I'll have to find some time to mess with it!
I just put an aftermarket carb on an ms290 that I also rebuilt and opened up the muffler on and it fired right up. Tachs right out to spec and everything.
That's why I don't really think it's the carb on this. Maybe I'll try the other one I have that came on it and see if it makes a difference. Been busy lately with the snow here in PA but I'll have to find some time to mess with it!
Aftermarket can vary greatly how many turns out on the jets for the proper setting. Start fooling with the low and see if you can get it to hold idle a few minutes.
I had an MS660 that did that. I replaced the linkage and it still did it. Replaced the control switch, still did it. Carb, still did it. I sold it that way cheap with the disclaimer that it was harder than it should be to start having no fast idle.
Then I got an 066 that was the same way. Replaced the trigger and cured it. Both were very high hour saws. So, I am thinking you can eventually wear the trigger down to where it does not hold the fast idle
I posted a solution to this a year or so ago. There is a way to shim the left side of the switch rod about 1/8" back toward the trigger so that is will not drop out of fast idle when switched off choke:
Note the red line. The shim slides in right into that cavity. It doesn't take much. You can test whether it will work with the engine off. The shim should not bend the rod too much or other problems will crop up wth the filter base.
romad10
Recon Observe Mark And Destroy
Put a short piece of fuel line on carb and blow into it and suck from it. If it lets you blow or suck the needle is not doing its job. Excess fuel like that is because it's freely flowing in and fouling plugs. Never has a chance to fire from massive flooding. Make sure your pulse line is also pulsing from crankcase. You might have 2 issues. Needle is not doing its job and no pulse to pump the fuel like it should.
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ktm1217
Kyle
Thanks for all the input guys. I switched to the carb that was originally on it when I got it. With some very slight tuning, I got it running real smooth. Idles around 3k, revs to about 12,700-800 rpm. There probably is something wrong with the needle in that other carb I had on it. Maybe out of adjustment? I'm not too worried about it since the saws running good now. If I ever need that other carb, I'll worry about fixing it lol
I just bought an 064 on line and for a reasonable price. Looks to be in good condition. These big saws are worth fixing, believe me. I've been looking for a back up saw to my MS660 Mag. The 064 is about the same as an MS650 with flat top plastic and a few years older. I have a feeling that you and I now have two really nice strong saws -- not new but good to go. Cheers!
jmssaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
064 is much lighter and more powerful and better looking and worth more than a 650.
All though a 650 is a fine saw
Glad to hear that. I have run both a 650 and a 660. The 064 I bought looks to be in great shape and well taken care of. About all it lacks is a decomp valve, so I may have to build up some muscle to start it. I think the displacement is identical to the MS 650. If for some reason it's too much saw for me to handle, I have at least two potential local buyers licking their chops for it. Both guys are strong as apes.
