Stihl 070 stalls in cut

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G'day Eddy_t.... Can you pull the clutch drum and take a pic of the lip? that would give a good idea of how warn the drum is...It looks very blue on the outside and that's not a good sign,But as you have said and from your pics the damage to the bottom of the drive links is not what I would call normal for a new bar? it kind of looks like what happens when a bar is worn out and the drive links bottom out in the bar grove?.... Well this is all very interesting with a few odd things going on at the same time, I hope we all can help you work out what the problem is and get your 070 cutting as it should Cheers :).....Here is a pic of my 090AV :guitar: View attachment 405323

drum will be replaced regardless whether the lip are worn or not,
but it was usable when the dealer and myself put back the saw together when rebuilding
blue metal are bad metal :p, seriously bluish mark will cause metal to slip and it wont hold sharpness(studied engineering)
its very confusing, this kind of chain wear are seen on well used or beat up bars
usually when the rails are damaged like chipped off or gone down too low
the bar was brand new stihl 30" duromatic solid nose, it looks almost perfect in my eyes
the rail and groove are as good as any new ones
i dont think chinese stihl bar copy exists, but i could be wrong
wood chip got stuck between chain and bar once had to dislodge it with pulling saw on wood backwards
that was all but dont think it will damage the drive links these bad
 
holy smoke !!!
dude where did you get those av handles from ?!
Any dealer can get them, but it won't fit your saw, that is the new casing. I have fitted a set on mine but had to make a bracket, pictures are on the contra sharing thread


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guys i just got my 070 fixed
the problem was with stucked decomp valve
LOL
who would have thought bout that
thanks alot for the input

That wouldn't cause clutch slip, it would cause fading, but it would answer why your cylinder had transfer.
Had the governor been fitted correctly, that would have been the primary indicator of a lean mixture.


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what you think made the clutch fried ?
the new clutch looks bluish now
governor is fitted but doesn't come in, spring appears to be too tight
i set it up rich so it will be always rich regardless governor coming in or not
 
what you think made the clutch fried ?
the new clutch looks bluish now
governor is fitted but doesn't come in, spring appears to be too tight
i set it up rich so it will be always rich regardless governor coming in or not
You said the chain was stopping but the rpm increased.


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chain slows down and stops intermittently, engine doesn't stall
but kinda bogs when chain has stopped
dealer opened up auto oiler more to high side, now it cuts better and pretty hard to stall it even when "levering" in
 
does the auto oiler run by crank or clutch ?
Oiler is powered by crank impulse.

Had you said the saw bogs then I wouldn't have bothered talking about the clutch, but you'll know for future :p

The new clutch shoes don't have linings on them, if your dealer has lined shoes, buy them up as they're NOS parts!


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It won't oil on idle. What are you cutting with it? You may be expecting to much out of the saw. Gotta go slow on the 070 or they will stall out when pushed in 30 inch hardwood. I have several so I speak from experience.
 
ok i assume the oiler is healthy then, as my other crank driven oiler saws oils when idling
im cutting dry hard dead wood like Acacia, Eucalyptus and Khaya, you are right
but i feel its got the torque to hold on when drived in, them germans really invented a good piece of a machine :bowdown:
 
if its ran by crank impulse it should oil on idle right ?
yes im aware those are NOS, should grab the other 2 ?
No, it works on an impulse to operate a ratchet mechanism on the pump, the idle impulse won't be strong enough to pump oil.
And yes, buy the other two.


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No, it works on an impulse to operate a ratchet mechanism on the pump, the idle impulse won't be strong enough to pump oil.
And yes, buy the other two.


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interesting, my other saws could be direct crank driven oil pumps i guess ?
will get those clutches, maybe put it up on AS for auction :)
 
Hey guys i have a stihl 070 that stalls in the cut, the engine does not die but the chain takes a good bite on the wood midway while cutting and the chain stalls. Im cutting hard dead wood btw

saw has:
1. new clutch(old ones had bluish mark)
2. new crank seals(old one was hardened on one side i think it was clutch side)
3. new fuel line, tank vent, impulse hose, fuel filter and etc
4. new ignition coil, new plug wires, new plug
5. carb rebuilt new diaphragms
6. cylinder got fine sanded and smoothened out
7. piston had a lil scoring below oil ring and ring
had a lil wear but still usable(according to my dealer)

any input are appreciated, thanks in advance

Hello my friend , it is 2016 but if you have this problem with 070
maybe this help .
Reduse the gap flywheel and ignition coil (use a bussines card ).
 
Hey guys i have a stihl 070 that stalls in the cut, the engine does not die but the chain takes a good bite on the wood midway while cutting and the chain stalls. Im cutting hard dead wood btw

saw has:
1. new clutch(old ones had bluish mark)
2. new crank seals(old one was hardened on one side i think it was clutch side)
3. new fuel line, tank vent, impulse hose, fuel filter and etc
4. new ignition coil, new plug wires, new plug
5. carb rebuilt new diaphragms
6. cylinder got fine sanded and smoothened out
7. piston had a lil scoring below oil ring and ring
had a lil wear but still usable(according to my dealer)

any input are appreciated, thanks in advance



reduse gap betwen flywheel and ignition coil , ( use business card)
 
found the problem long time ago but didnt update
it was a brand new bar 30" stihl duro
that was pinching
i went with 090 upgrade thinking it was weak compression p&c
the 090 upgrade smoked the bar lol
thats how much power it has compared to 070
 
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