Stihl 075 and logosol M7 mill, is a 25" bar my best choice for that mill?

[cascadejack]

Just got the milling bug, bought a used 075 that's in pretty good shape but has a 36" bar with a standard 8 sprocket .404, 0.63 and chisel chain. I guess I could just use that but worried about bar float with the M7 mill.

Looks to me like the M7 is not really the best mill for field work, like I still should get a granberg mill for ripping big boys down to size for the M7 mill. So my question is, should I get a 24" bar for the M7 or should I drill the bar and make some guide mounts?

If anyone read my earlier post, I just edited it because I called a "local" (less than 100 miles from me) shop Madsens, and they advised me to forget about the lo-pro chain on this saw.

I can just get a 24" stihl bar and 2 chains for a reasonable price, with .404 chain I think it's called microchisel chain, and then can resharpen after that to 10degrees. So question 2 is a 24" bar with the logosol m7 the best choice to avoid bar float?

The guy at Madsen's told me milling is real tough on chains so I should just be using .404 chain and stock stihl sprockets, and bars, and don't worry about the bigger saw kerf. I think I am also going to buy a granberg mill from them in person, (versus online)! Does anyone in Seattle buy things in person anymore? Lol...

So anyways, I think I've answered my own questions but will leave this up here for opinion and commentary. I guess in Oregon and WA Stihl is still king and also Husqvarna is okay at Madsens' but that's the only brands they service or are dealers for anyways.

I have a husqvarna 55 that has a 20" bar already, kind of small for ripping but I could probably throw a lo-pro chain on there and bar, what do people think of that idea?

(And use that saw on my mill)

I am guessing the 55 is too small, so the 075 is the best milling saw unless I hotrod the 55?

I only paid 125$ for the 55, and it's an old saw so maybe I just need 2 saws, but I'll research the 55 some more.

Anways, looking forward to other opinions here, I will get the M7 mill in a week or so. Might even keep it, but not sure yet. I'm kind of thinking I could sell that here real easily, and get something like an entry level bandsaw mill instead. But I am going to give it a try all the same, and the grandberg mill seems the best for field milling douglas fir.

The M7 will be a good mill for precision millwork or sawing down larger beams maybe salvage lumber, and that sort of thing. I watched a video where they sawed right through 2 16 penny nails, and it kept right on sawing away! (On the mill, not freesawing) Just a chain sharpening needed is all. Gotta love that, lots of salvage around here, lots of old growth fir.

I am not a carpenter by trade, so this is about my level of skills right now, I am more of a hack than a finish carpenter so post and beam, and timberframe is more within my abilities. Don't even mention "stick framing"... I don't need my own granberg and M7 mill to stick frame.

Okay done editing, sorry I changed my tune but I had no comments yet on the earlier post.

 

[BobL]

Milling is hard on chains but if blokes like me can run 60" bar, with 3/8", on an 880, in Aussie hardwood without breaking a chain then in your trees this should be a doddle.

On a logosol I'd be looking to to use a short bar and 3/8 LoPro chain. BTW I wouldn't recommend using LP with the 075 bars that are too long

5 years ago I did some kerf measurements (see http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/real-kerf-sizes.137465/)

In summary
404 = kerf is 0.35"
3/8 regular is 0.32"
3/8 LP is 0.27"

The difference between 404 and 3/8 is about 10%, but for 3/8 L/P its very significant (nearly 30%) which takes a significant load of a power head.
To get the most out of the 075 running LP and a short bar you would need to drop the rakers significantly - I would suggest doing this bit by bit because the lower the rakers the "grabbier" the chain will become and this introduces vibe especially on the size of logs that can be milled with a 24" bar.

Now it's one thing to talk about using LP chain but it's another thing to actually get it running on a saw. You will meed a special drive sprocket as the standard 3/8 does not cut it. Ideally you need an LP nose sprocket on the bar but I found a standard one wears in after a while.

 

[cascadejack]

Hi Bob, I'm not sure about the stihl 880, all I know is I could go to a 3/8 bar pretty easy but going lo-pro is not recommended by my local saw shop. They advised me to stay with the .404 chain and get a granberg mill for field cutting or milling. I guess going to 3/8 regular is not too difficult but they said going with picco or lo-pro on that saw is just not going to be practical.

They said it's a large mount bar on my 075 and that's why its more practical to use the standard .404 chain.

I'd be willing to research it more to see what exactly I would have to do to put lo-pro on that saw.

What is a BIL mill?

 

[abbott295]

Cascadejack: Those are links to threads at the bottom of BobL's post. I think BIL is a mill he built for a Brother-In-Law. But anyway, click on those links for more information. Also, if you haven't already, read through the CS Milling 101 sticky at the top of the Milling and sawmills page.

 

[BobL]

Hi Bob, I'm not sure about the stihl 880, all I know is I could go to a 3/8 bar pretty easy but going lo-pro is not recommended by my local saw shop.

Yeah I would expect them to say that. It's not a straightforward proposition.

They advised me to stay with the .404 chain and get a granberg mill for field cutting or milling. I guess going to 3/8 regular is not too difficult but they said going with picco or lo-pro on that saw is just not going to be practical.
They said it's a large mount bar on my 075 and that's why its more practical to use the standard .404 chain.

The large mount is awkward because LoPro is 0.050" gauge and I don't think there is a large mount 0.050" bar. If it was me I would modify an 050 bar but that's not for everyone to tackle.

What is a BIL mill?

BIL stands for Brother-In-Law, he did the ally welding on it. The remainder was custom made by yours truly. Follow the links in my signature for details.

 

[cascadejack]

Well I went out in the backyard yesterday and fired up the beast! The 075, that is, I guess it was not used much as I put some fresh ethanol free gas in there at 50:1, pushed the decomp valve in and it fired up in 2-3 pops but it would not idle, so might have to play with the low speed jet a little? As long as I keep triggering it it's fine but need it to idle obviously with a saw that big. I looked closely at the mounts and everything and that is a hell of a saw. I think an 066, 660, or even a husqvarna 372XP might be a better fit for the logosol M7 mill, with lo-pro bar and chain.

I kind of think I could sell the 075 real easily in my neck of the woods. But it would sure be nice with a granberg mill setup on it, and maybe even a longer bar for milling bigger logs.

Sure like all your posts on here BobL, I have been reading them a lot, noticed all the pictures are gone from getting hacked, that's kind of a bummer.

After looking at my saw I kind of thought to myself "what the hell am I doing with this giant chain saw?" But I do want to mill my own 8x8's, and I found some more free logs on craigslist, free for the taking. Usually I have to clear everything to get the logs, all the branches, so I need other crosscut saws for that as well.

There are some crazy deals on lumber right now, where I might just be able to buy the wood cheaper than milling my own, but that's no fun! Well anyways, I don't think the logosol M7 is the ticket for field milling, the stihl 075 might still be the ticket with the 3/8" chain on a shorter bar, and then full .404 chain on the longer bar.

So here's what I am thinking: Setup the beast (075) with a granberg mill for field milling and dressing logs down. Maybe have the M7 along for the ride, but have another saw with a lo-pro chain and a 20-24" bar, and after cutting the big logs down to length with my husqvarna 55, mill into cants, put the cants over on the M7, then mill beams from there.

If I need to do edging I'll use a mini-mill for that and 2x4 guides just to get it close, then finish everything up on the M7.
Or just load it all up and haul back home where the M7 is all setup for final milling and stickering...

I will have the M7, and the 075, and a husqvarna 55 for crosscutting within a week or so. What I need now is a granberg mill, and some ripping chain for the 075.

What about running the husqvaran 55 with lo-pro chain do you think it would handle it? Or too small?

Thanks again, I think my questions have been covered. I just need to do more research and "field testing".

 

[babybart]

You might want to rethink running the 075 on 50:1, I run at least 40:1 on my saws and my 394 milling saw gets 36:1.

 

[kimosawboy]

You might want to do a trial run or two before you go all saw crazy...
Just pack your few (3)saws up/safety gear/fuel/tools/alaskan mill/M7/lunch, drive to a cut block or some old forest road, then unpack al that crap from your truck and then walk it into the bush a good 1/4 mile...Find a nice log (12'minimum)/mill it to an M7 size/load up the M7 and mill the board to whatever....Now pack all your crap back up and take it all back to the truck , dont forget new lumber. Then a leisurely drive home and and again unpacking to put everything away.
Now just looking at this scenario I would say it would take you a minimum of three trips in and at least five when you are leaving. Even if you have a quad you are still making alot of trips, and you also get the added bonus of packing and unpacking a quad.
So you should try this dry run at least twice in three days, then get back to us.

 

[cascadejack]

Thanks Babybart I was just firing it up as I just got the saw a week ago.

I'll consider mixing at 40:1, just to be on the safe side. It's good fuel in there, ethanol free and stihl 2cycle oil I use for the FS90 weedwhacker. Appreciate the advice on going 40:1, and other advice people have posted here.

I don't have an owners manual for the stihl 075, I thought it was 50:1 mix. So thanks for letting me know about that. Probably okay for a few minutes with no load on the saw is what I am thinking.

I guess your'e right here's from a parts website: (Barret's) Stihl 075 Specifications First year of production: 1974 Weight with standard bar: 25.5 lbs (11.7 kg) Displacement: 111 cc (6.77 cu. in.) Fuel mix: 40:1 with Stihl 2 cycle oil Fuel tank size: 1200 ml Standard Cylinder Diameter: 59 mm (2.32 in.) Piston stroke: 42 mm (1.68 in.) Cylinder construction: chrome plated aluminum Crankcase construction: cast magnesium Standard chain pitch: .404"

So I'll be mixing at 40:1 for the saw, in the future, glad you caught that!

 

[cascadejack]

My plan is a bit different than that kimo but close:
1) Get all saws and ripping chain setups, gas/fuel, etc... and a "field mill" not the M7 (Granberg or big mill pro, probably a granberg and 2 ripping chains from Madsen's in Centralia WA).
2) Once I got the field mill setup, like you said all 3 saws (Poulan 16"(limbing and small stuff), Husqvarna 55 20" (main saw for bucking), and the 075 with the mill all setup to go.
3) Then I look on Craigslist for free firewood, find someone with a log or logs they want rid of. (Urban logging)
4) Same plan as above, but I also get firewood and if milling doesn't work out, then I just make firewood. I need firewood anyways.

Right now, I need to get a granberg and 2 ripping chains, also they said they might be able to file down my other 2 chains for milling if they are the right kind of chains. I am looking at about 300$ more for the granberg mill and 2 chains...

I bought the M7 on ebay as it seemed like it was too good of a deal to pass up. So that was kind of an ill thought out purchase in retrospect, but I got the whole M7 mill (with 2 m7 guide rails) for about 999$ with shipping. Here's what I need in the logosol side for my 36" bar and M75 to work right:

that's called the "Logosol Big Mill Lsg kit" but then I also need these guide bars here:

I think those are about 500$. So I am looking at another 1,000$ to mill one log properly in the logosol end.

So that's why I am thinking I should just get a granberg and some ripping chains, rip logs in the field with a granberg and an extension ladder guide, then pile in the yard until I get a 24" bar and chains for the 075 and M7 setup at the "Home milling site".

I am kicking myself now, as I probably could have gotten a bandsaw mill for all the money I've spent, just about. Not quite, but pretty damn close. Live and learn I suppose. But I still would need a mill like an "EZ-glide" or ground height portable BSM if I was going to mill in the field.

I don't think I can just go out in the woods in WA state without a forest service permit of some kind and mill logs. So that's why I am looking at craigslist free firewood ads, there seems to be one every week or so with some kind of douglas fir tree laying down with pretty easy access.

The granberg mill or the logosol big mill LSG, seems to be the way I have to go for field milling with my 36" bar and 075 mill, and staying with .404 chains, and now 40:1 fuel mix.

I have done a lot of firewood milling with permits and the rangers and cops have talked to me numerous times in the woods so you have to have a permit or buy your own logs from a private party somehow. I have bucked a lot of firewood with the 55, and poulan, so the new saw is a step up basically. But milling is a major step up from just bucking firewood. I am aware of that for sure... A little more money spent for safety equipment and log moving equipment will be a wise investment prior to my first milling trip in the woods...

I have some logs right now for the M7 but I need to get a 24" bar for that, or use the 55 with a ripping chain. Probably get a 24" bar for the 075 and a ripping chain.

Think I got it all figured out as per my plan, but just need to aqquire more equipment now. The M7 was probably not the best move I could have made, but it's too late now. I'll have to get a 24" bar for the 075 and rip chains for that saw, and the M7 mill.

I'll get back to you guys when I get all set up, thanks again for all your advice. (my real name is John and I live in WA state in the Cascade Mountains...) Take care and all the best!