Stihl 075

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Kidneycutter

Kidneycutter
Joined
Jan 21, 2013
Messages
292
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Location
Suffolk,UK
Hi,
Was milling some oak with me ol 075 today and she started to miss fire and lose power in the cut.....I carried on for a bit but stopped midway through. Once I got the saw out I realised shed blown the front off the exhaust.....would the symptoms be likely because of the exhaust or do I need to investigate further. Compression still massive!
 
On the 075 I would suspect the heat is causing the coil to misfire especially doing a long extended cut in a milling environment.
does it still have the original ignition?The trigger
unit is under the flywheel and gets hot and fails
There is an aftermarket fix for it ,cheap!
 
No exhaust could lean it out...also make sure it didn't suck anything into the cyinder..

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 
thanks for the replies. I think all the electrical parts on the saw are original. I picked it up for £40 :crazy2:a couple of years ago. I not sure how to proceed to correctly identify the problem? Does the coil need to be replaced? I ve ordered an exhaust. Meanwhile I'll have to use the 084:nofunny:
 
Right, just had time to tear down. First picture is the blown muffler! Second and third are under the flywheel. I've ordered an exhaust and ignition chip, quite cheap, which I hope will be a fix any thoughts or advice before proceeding?
image.jpeg
image.jpegimage.jpeg
 
Ted, I am not an expert. BUT I have compromised mufflers too on my 075 and 051. One is missing some mounting tabs and has a hole where one used to be.
The other one I think may be intact, but has something rattling inside.


I do seem to remember there are a number of folks on here who have rebuilt theirs right down to slicing them in half and then welding back together once fixed/improved, modified.
 
That fix was for an 045 Bosch ignition I think, one piece. The 075 here has the two piece factory setup with the trigger buried under the flywheel and the coil mounted externally. My 075, bought at auction, has a Stihl chip mounted to on the upper AV mount bracket. Well out of harm's way and very reliable. Probably just a fancy version of the old Atom chip.

Did the last TS760s and 510s use this chip as well? I'm not sure my 075 ever had the old trigger module.

Chris B.
 
cbfarmall, from that post I tried to send a link to in your PM, trever over there was replying to another member's situation and said,

"Your saw is definitely an older 075. Most 075s that you see have the oil cap on top instead of the side, however, later model 075 did have the side oil cap like the 076s. Some of those 075s even had chain brakes. The only difference between the 075 and 076 is the ignition and fuel tank/recoil.

Stock Tillotson HS-60 carb settings with a clean air filter are: Low 1 turn from a lightly seated needle, High 1 1/4 turn from a lightly seated needle
Screw them in lightly seated and back them out. Do not seat them hard or you could ruin the carb body.

I have and use a 075 and am finishing a 076 Super that I made from a TS 760 chop saw. I have ran and built other 051s and 075s as well.

Both of mine have decomp valves. When the saw is cold, I slide the choke on and set the fast idle button on the side the handle.
As soon as it fires slide the choke off and leave the fast idle set. The next pull should fire it off. Remember to push your decomp valve back in or you will remember real quick.

Now as for the ignitions, sounds like you have the 1111 400 1305 coil. This coil uses a wire for the on/off switch and has a pair the goes to the trigger. Your trigger is under the flywheel as you know. You can use an external trigger in its place. I do not use under the flywheel triggers on any of my 1111 series Stihls. The external trigger is Stihl P/N 1118 400 1001 that sells for around $40.

Stihl only offers two coils now to the best of my knowledge. The 1111 400 1301 and 1111 400 1303 coils. You can still find your coil 1111 400 1305.
If you need a new coil, then I would get the 1111 400 1303 off EBAY or ?? This coil is a module and does not require any trigger. It has the spark plug wire (secondary wire) and one wire that goes to the on/off switch. I just priced one today from my two Stihl dealers $148 and the other dealer was $158. Pretty expensive I know, but you can find them cheaper sometimes.

I would leave the existing trigger in place if you can not get the correct puller. It is not going to hurt anything. If you are able to get the flywheel off then get rid of it and replace the flywheel. Either way I would go with your coil and the external trigger.

Check your recoil while you have the fuel tank off. You might want to replace your fuel filter while you are at it. Hold you air filter up to light as well to ensure there are no holes in it. If there are please do yourself a favor and replace it.

I hope this helps. Let me know if I can help. Have a blessed day."

Trever
 
That fix was for an 045 Bosch ignition I think, one piece. The 075 here has the two piece factory setup with the trigger buried under the flywheel and the coil mounted externally. My 075, bought at auction, has a Stihl chip mounted to on the upper AV mount bracket. Well out of harm's way and very reliable. Probably just a fancy version of the old Atom chip.

Did the last TS760s and 510s use this chip as well? I'm not sure my 075 ever had the old trigger module.

Chris B.
Does anybody know how to install these ignition chips? There is a video by the 'chainsaw guy'

Here he coverts the points, mine has got this other 'thing' - it seems to have a double wire between it and the coil.
Chainsaw guy takes the wire to the points, pulls it thought the housing then attaches to the new chip and fixes.
 
cbfarmall, from that post I tried to send a link to in your PM, trever over there was replying to another member's situation and said,

"Your saw is definitely an older 075. Most 075s that you see have the oil cap on top instead of the side, however, later model 075 did have the side oil cap like the 076s. Some of those 075s even had chain brakes. The only difference between the 075 and 076 is the ignition and fuel tank/recoil.

Stock Tillotson HS-60 carb settings with a clean air filter are: Low 1 turn from a lightly seated needle, High 1 1/4 turn from a lightly seated needle
Screw them in lightly seated and back them out. Do not seat them hard or you could ruin the carb body.

I have and use a 075 and am finishing a 076 Super that I made from a TS 760 chop saw. I have ran and built other 051s and 075s as well.

Both of mine have decomp valves. When the saw is cold, I slide the choke on and set the fast idle button on the side the handle.
As soon as it fires slide the choke off and leave the fast idle set. The next pull should fire it off. Remember to push your decomp valve back in or you will remember real quick.

Now as for the ignitions, sounds like you have the 1111 400 1305 coil. This coil uses a wire for the on/off switch and has a pair the goes to the trigger. Your trigger is under the flywheel as you know. You can use an external trigger in its place. I do not use under the flywheel triggers on any of my 1111 series Stihls. The external trigger is Stihl P/N 1118 400 1001 that sells for around $40.

Stihl only offers two coils now to the best of my knowledge. The 1111 400 1301 and 1111 400 1303 coils. You can still find your coil 1111 400 1305.
If you need a new coil, then I would get the 1111 400 1303 off EBAY or ?? This coil is a module and does not require any trigger. It has the spark plug wire (secondary wire) and one wire that goes to the on/off switch. I just priced one today from my two Stihl dealers $148 and the other dealer was $158. Pretty expensive I know, but you can find them cheaper sometimes.

I would leave the existing trigger in place if you can not get the correct puller. It is not going to hurt anything. If you are able to get the flywheel off then get rid of it and replace the flywheel. Either way I would go with your coil and the external trigger.

Check your recoil while you have the fuel tank off. You might want to replace your fuel filter while you are at it. Hold you air filter up to light as well to ensure there are no holes in it. If there are please do yourself a favor and replace it.

I hope this helps. Let me know if I can help. Have a blessed day."

Trever
Trevor,
I have a 075 with oil feeder cap on the top with electronic ignition. The trigger module failed and I put on a SIG-01 module and it will start if you don't break your shoulder before it fires up but the timing is out.
I did read on one site where the person selling a module suggested that the flywheel would need to be moved clockwise a full keyway meaning you would be relying on the taper pressure to hold the flywheel in place. Too dodgy for me.
Therefore your suggestion of replacing the coil with one that has the built in trigger sounds like the way to go.
Are you confident that the timing will be right with the coil you suggest 1111 400 1303 as I asked the people at proline who sell the 1111 400 1303 and they are not sure that it will work.
Do believe installing a flywheel off a 075 which had points combined with the SIG-01 trigger would be an alternative that would work, if so, do you know the part number of the flywheel that runs with points.
Appreciate any feedback.
Thanks Steve
 
cbfarmall, from that post I tried to send a link to in your PM, trever over there was replying to another member's situation and said,

"Your saw is definitely an older 075. Most 075s that you see have the oil cap on top instead of the side, however, later model 075 did have the side oil cap like the 076s. Some of those 075s even had chain brakes. The only difference between the 075 and 076 is the ignition and fuel tank/recoil.

Stock Tillotson HS-60 carb settings with a clean air filter are: Low 1 turn from a lightly seated needle, High 1 1/4 turn from a lightly seated needle
Screw them in lightly seated and back them out. Do not seat them hard or you could ruin the carb body.

I have and use a 075 and am finishing a 076 Super that I made from a TS 760 chop saw. I have ran and built other 051s and 075s as well.

Both of mine have decomp valves. When the saw is cold, I slide the choke on and set the fast idle button on the side the handle.
As soon as it fires slide the choke off and leave the fast idle set. The next pull should fire it off. Remember to push your decomp valve back in or you will remember real quick.

Now as for the ignitions, sounds like you have the 1111 400 1305 coil. This coil uses a wire for the on/off switch and has a pair the goes to the trigger. Your trigger is under the flywheel as you know. You can use an external trigger in its place. I do not use under the flywheel triggers on any of my 1111 series Stihls. The external trigger is Stihl P/N 1118 400 1001 that sells for around $40.

Stihl only offers two coils now to the best of my knowledge. The 1111 400 1301 and 1111 400 1303 coils. You can still find your coil 1111 400 1305.
If you need a new coil, then I would get the 1111 400 1303 off EBAY or ?? This coil is a module and does not require any trigger. It has the spark plug wire (secondary wire) and one wire that goes to the on/off switch. I just priced one today from my two Stihl dealers $148 and the other dealer was $158. Pretty expensive I know, but you can find them cheaper sometimes.

I would leave the existing trigger in place if you can not get the correct puller. It is not going to hurt anything. If you are able to get the flywheel off then get rid of it and replace the flywheel. Either way I would go with your coil and the external trigger.

Check your recoil while you have the fuel tank off. You might want to replace your fuel filter while you are at it. Hold you air filter up to light as well to ensure there are no holes in it. If there are please do yourself a favor and replace it.

I hope this helps. Let me know if I can help. Have a blessed day."

Trever
Trevor
I have a 075 electronic ignition saw that the trigger failed.
I replaced the trigger with a SIG-01 module which allowed the saw to run if you could get it to fire before breaking your shoulder but the timing is out.
I read on a blog that you need to rotate the flywheel clockwise by the width of the keyway. With some testing with a multimeter I was able to confirm that this did get the timing close to where the timing marks are but I do not want to run the saw without the key in place to secure the flywheel.
After reading your comments I will purchase the 1111 400 1303 module and replace the coil and the SIG-01 trigger module
I found a module on Amazon that actually lists the 075 as a saw it is suited for, as some I found listed the 076 but not the 075.
Have you ever installed a 1111 400 1303 module on a 075 stihl electronic ignition saw, if so, did it work correctly?
Thanks Steve.
 
Trevor
I have a 075 electronic ignition saw that the trigger failed.
I replaced the trigger with a SIG-01 module which allowed the saw to run if you could get it to fire before breaking your shoulder but the timing is out.
I read on a blog that you need to rotate the flywheel clockwise by the width of the keyway. With some testing with a multimeter I was able to confirm that this did get the timing close to where the timing marks are but I do not want to run the saw without the key in place to secure the flywheel.
After reading your comments I will purchase the 1111 400 1303 module and replace the coil and the SIG-01 trigger module
I found a module on Amazon that actually lists the 075 as a saw it is suited for, as some I found listed the 076 but not the 075.
Have you ever installed a 1111 400 1303 module on a 075 stihl electronic ignition saw, if so, did it work correctly?
Thanks Steve.
https://shop.saegenspezi.de/navi.php?qs=stihl+075+ignition&search=
 

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