Stihl 076

[Kidneycutter]

i ve pretty much stripped the saw. The piston and cylinder have had it.. But still determined to resurrect the beast. Clutch side bearing gas a bit of play - have parts for the bottom end, seals and gaskets, my only problem is the top .... I can't afford a Oem piston and cylinder and a bit concerned about putting a aftermarket replacement...could anyone advise or let me know if you have a good cylinder and piston for this saw.
Thanks,
Clint

 

[Ozhoo]

Editied to highlight my stupidity... pre-mature clicking, wrong clicking, over clicking. I have lots of excuses.

I noticed a Scotland in Connecticut, Georgia, Indiana, Maryland, Missouri, New Hampshire, Ohio, Pennsylvania, South Dakota and Virginia but I'm guessing that none of them are you. Still, 20usd shipping should get it to you.

 

[mgr]

Difficult to find a good used OEM. Last time i checked the new price by Stihl for a member it was 400 Euro piston and cylinder.

 

[Kidneycutter]

Scotland,U.K. But I've moved to Suffolk,U.K. Which I think is probably further!

 

[Ozhoo]

There's a new cylinder sitting on eBay if you could sweet talk the seller into shipping it.

 

[alexcagle]

The Cross cylinder kits are very good quality. I have a dozen out there that I've installed in the concrete saw version of the 076. -Some for four years now. None have had fitment issues or premature failures yet.
If you opt for the used Oem cylinder, I'd recommend a "new" Oem, or Meteor brand piston kit, as well.
It's too much of a risk installing a used piston. It takes wear the most wear in a chainsaw first.
When you split the case, make sure to put a wedge under very slight pressure between the crankshaft counterweights. This will keep the crankshaft from getting bent at the lower rod bearing, even if you do use a separator tool.
Don't hammer the wedge in either, all it needs is enough not to fall out.
When you install the bearings in the case halves first, do so with a torch or heat gun to 325° Fahrenheit on the case and drop it in, and finish with light tapping on the outer race if need be.
Seals not intalled until later, after the case is pulled together with at least three long screws sequentially.

 

[Conquistador3]

I have to go to my Stihl dealership this week to pick up some wear items.
They fix a lot of TS760 concrete saws (same top end) so I'll be sure to ask them if there are cheaper alternatives to OE.

 

[Kidneycutter]

Thanks for all advice. I have another Oem crankshaft and bearings for the saw so have the option to change if need be. Thinking of fabricating a crankcase splitter off th bar studs if that's the best option rather than a hammer.
May go with the cross performance ... here's a couple of photos of the saw so far..... Still waiting for a long reach hex to remove the cylinder!

 

[super3]

Still waiting for a long reach hex to remove the cylinder!

Is that an aftermarket cylinder?
I may be wrong but, all 076's I have been in. The OEM is held on with long studs, nuts and washers on top of the cylinder.

 

[Ms290man]

Is that an aftermarket cylinder?
I may be wrong but, all 076's I have been in. The OEM is held on with long studs, nuts and washers on top of the cylinder.

Agreed, 051 variants had cap screws like shown; 075 and 076 had the long studs.

 

[Kidneycutter]

I look it to that, I did notice on the parts list there were long studs. There's no manual oile pump.

 

[Ozhoo]

...There's no manual oile pump.

oh oh, you know what that means.

 

[Kidneycutter]

Unfortunately, someone gas swapped the cover over ...I'm guessing it's a 051?
Gutted...

 

[Kidneycutter]

You probably know the next question. Can I convert this saw to a 076 or is it best to keep the same cylinder?

 

[alexcagle]

In addition to the cylinder, your muffler, intake, and corresponding gaskets from an 051 are all going to be different from an 075/076.

 

[alexcagle]

Is that an aftermarket cylinder?
I may be wrong but, all 076's I have been in. The OEM is held on with long studs, nuts and washers on top of the cylinder.

Good catch!

 

[Conquistador3]

Unfortunately, someone gas swapped the cover over ...I'm guessing it's a 051?
Gutted...

Look at the bright side: top ends for the 051 are considerably cheaper than those for a 076/TS760.

 

[alexcagle]

Look at the bright side: top ends for the 051 are considerably cheaper than those for a 076/TS760.

Not to say that an 051 is lacking in power, it isn't. They have a really long stroke, (same as the 076),
but if I was lugging one of those boat anchors around, I'd rather have the extra power of the 076.
Since there is only 2lbs or (4.4kg) difference in weight.
There are some 051 crankcases that can be converted to accept the 076 cylinder, and some that can't. There are several good posts on here that cover that.
Plus, you still wouldn't have the supplemental oiler, the intake block, and muffler are different.
If you do try this, I have a big tote of parts for this saw.

 

[Kidneycutter]

I think I'm going to keep it as a 52mm bore. I have split the case and the clutch side bearing looks like a roller bearing with no inner race - see attached - is this normal . In The parts list they look like plain bearings.
A couple of questions... How do you remove the oil seals and how do you clean the gasket off cleanly.
One more I'm guessing I need to heat the bearing housing the remove the bearing.
Thanks in advance,
Clint

 

[alexcagle]

I think I'm going to keep it as a 52mm bore. I have split the case and the clutch side bearing looks like a roller bearing with no inner race - see attached - is this normal . In The parts list they look like plain bearings.
A couple of questions... How do you remove the oil seals and how do you clean the gasket off cleanly.
One more I'm guessing I need to heat the bearing housing the remove the bearing.
Thanks in advance,
Clint

I have two of those #9521-003-2500 NOS bearings. I can spare one.

The type is an INA-F320612
27mm x 40mm x 10mm
I'm not 100% sure if one or both of those numbers on the tag have been superceeded, or are no longer available.