custom84
New Member
im wanting to start messing with one of my 084's to start racing at local log shows what should i do it it first. anyone got info on the two peace head's or anything else i can do it it
stihl 084 build
- Thread starter custom84
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BloodOnTheIce
Addicted to ArboristSite
A good healthy woods porting, race chain, 10 tooth sprocket, and D ring starter handle.
wigglesworth
Booned
Hi Woodchucker!!!
custom84
New Member
it has to be a stock looking hot saw to run in shows around my area. where would i find a race chain? i have done alot of work to my chains and i feel like they cut pretty dang good.
Horray 084!!!! 
trappermike
ArboristSite Guru
There are 3 equally important things to successfully compete in chainsaw events;
1.-The saw must have a competitive amount of power. (Of course!)
2-The chain must be modified and specially sharpened by an expert on racing chains.It's critical,pay for a good one if you must! A stock saw with a wicked cutting chain will beat a modified saw with a stock or slow chain.
3-Learn the tricks to fast cutting techniques,and practice,practice,practice! You can use a stock saw for most of your practice to sharpen your skills,then practice with your race saw prior to any event,to get used to the balance and power curve of your modified saw.
1.-The saw must have a competitive amount of power. (Of course!)
2-The chain must be modified and specially sharpened by an expert on racing chains.It's critical,pay for a good one if you must! A stock saw with a wicked cutting chain will beat a modified saw with a stock or slow chain.
3-Learn the tricks to fast cutting techniques,and practice,practice,practice! You can use a stock saw for most of your practice to sharpen your skills,then practice with your race saw prior to any event,to get used to the balance and power curve of your modified saw.
Logger4Life
ArboristSite Operative
I have 2 084's would like to build 1 to be race worthy . 1 pulls really hard and will fire but won't run . the other 1 is complete but is blownup parts saw . how hard is it to split the case to check or replace the crank bearings could that be the reason it is so hard to pull or do they have a extreme amount of compression. no decomp
husq2100
Addicted to ArboristSite
L4L, that stuff is easy, and with your past youll make it a sinch....got to the chainsaw section, go to the "Beg's for manuals" threads and get your self a 084 workshop manual and the correct year/s Ipl and you will be away...ask about splitting cases in chainsaw...many a stihl guru in there
trappermike
ArboristSite Guru
The 084 was a great designed saw,they worked well modified for fallers and were entirely reliable.
They also work great as racing saws and can pretty much handle as much power as you can squeeze out of them.
In 1986 the Stihl Rep. in my area gave me a used Pre-production "test" 084 to build for competition.
Interestingly it had no factory serial# stamped in the usual place,just the # 14 stamped on each half of the crankcase on the front.
I built it with full race porting,pipe etc.,it has been raced in competitions since that time,in 1991 a pro from the Logger's Sports circuits from Washington state has been using every year in competition and won lots of events with it(Even beat a few Alky saws) in the USA and Canada.
The amazing thing is it has never "blown up",or even had any kind of rebuild yet! That's 25 years of hard use,and a testament to how durable the 084 design is!
They also work great as racing saws and can pretty much handle as much power as you can squeeze out of them.
In 1986 the Stihl Rep. in my area gave me a used Pre-production "test" 084 to build for competition.
Interestingly it had no factory serial# stamped in the usual place,just the # 14 stamped on each half of the crankcase on the front.
I built it with full race porting,pipe etc.,it has been raced in competitions since that time,in 1991 a pro from the Logger's Sports circuits from Washington state has been using every year in competition and won lots of events with it(Even beat a few Alky saws) in the USA and Canada.
The amazing thing is it has never "blown up",or even had any kind of rebuild yet! That's 25 years of hard use,and a testament to how durable the 084 design is!
Logger4Life
ArboristSite Operative
084
Thanks guys everyone on AS has bees really helpful . I have omly ever had one other stihl and it has my first cut down saw did good until winter then it would keep stlling due to sucking snow into the air filter so I bought a used 395 and this was in 12/2000. I sold it a year ago for $250 he is still using it on the landing every day. I know I went off topic sorry the point is some saws seem to be bullet proof and others are time bombs AKA monday morning saws HAHA. Anyway thanks I going to get the #'s after work so I can locate a manual.
Thanks guys everyone on AS has bees really helpful . I have omly ever had one other stihl and it has my first cut down saw did good until winter then it would keep stlling due to sucking snow into the air filter so I bought a used 395 and this was in 12/2000. I sold it a year ago for $250 he is still using it on the landing every day. I know I went off topic sorry the point is some saws seem to be bullet proof and others are time bombs AKA monday morning saws HAHA. Anyway thanks I going to get the #'s after work so I can locate a manual.
trappermike
ArboristSite Guru
Unfortunate you had trouble with your Stihl in the snow. For several decades Stihl has done a good job of designing their saws so the carb was isolated from heat,preventing hot weather problems,like vapor-locking. Conversely, they suffer in cold weather and snow conditions from carb icing,causing the operator real problems keeping the saw running.
Since the mid 80's Stihl has designed very effective "Winter Kits" for their saws,they can be ordered as an inexpensive accessory,and work well. Working in a saw shop in northern B.C. Canada where
winter temps. can be -30 to -40 we learned how to keep them running.
If you ever have to run a Stihl in cold snowy weather get the "Winter kit".
Since the mid 80's Stihl has designed very effective "Winter Kits" for their saws,they can be ordered as an inexpensive accessory,and work well. Working in a saw shop in northern B.C. Canada where
winter temps. can be -30 to -40 we learned how to keep them running.
If you ever have to run a Stihl in cold snowy weather get the "Winter kit".
trappermike
ArboristSite Guru
I once long ago came across someone's idea for a heated handlebar on an old 051 or 075.
Someone had fashioned a small metal tube coming off the muffler,and directed it into the inside if the handlebar tubing,so the motor blew hot exhaust inside the handle bar pipe. I never tested it,but it probably worked!:msp_w00t:
Someone had fashioned a small metal tube coming off the muffler,and directed it into the inside if the handlebar tubing,so the motor blew hot exhaust inside the handle bar pipe. I never tested it,but it probably worked!:msp_w00t:
johnfawn2000
ArboristSite Operative
Just a thought
when you have the time,email 1cut. I think he can help you.he is great you will see a 50 to 60% increase in power. He has opened my eyes.
when you have the time,email 1cut. I think he can help you.he is great you will see a 50 to 60% increase in power. He has opened my eyes.
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