Purchased a Stihl 088 a while back and just now got around to messing with it. Installed new P/C as the old one was shot. Reassembled and set carb to factory settings. Attempted to start (decomp set) but the cord yanked out of my hand. I've had this happen on other saws before and the timing was off. But this saw never seems like you can get a full pull on it. I have seen other guys drop start these saws, not an option with this one. Any thoughts on this? Thanks
Stihl 088 jerks cord out of hand
- Thread starter Hamp363
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Coil gap set to small or possible bad coil stuck in adv
Pull until you feel the compression start to peak. Then let the cord all the way back in and pull.
That is the best gear ratio you will have.
That is the best gear ratio you will have.
Set gap with business card and that looks good. I will test the coil. Thanks for heads up
Ok, I will give it go. Thanks
I've seen videos of people drop starting 880's, and no chance on my 780 (same saw, different tuning). Only saw I have to two hand pull even with decomp valve set. I'm 6'7" and 230 too, so not like I lack for strength. Some small tree service guys I loaned it to tried to start it and were dumbfounded. Start from TDC and you can one hand it w decomp valve w a strong pull but I usually two hand it to be sure. Found this on another forum. Would explain why your 088 is so difficult. Wasn't until they completely redesigned the 880, and it could use the 361 and 441 coil, that they introduced the variable timing to it I think.
"On most saws designed and built before 2000 the ignition timing is fixed at around 28 degrees of advance. That is the case for a 029 STIHL. This is like trying to start a Briggs lawnmower with a sheared flywheel key. As we get older and have less strength in our arms and shoulders it makes these old saws seem harder to start. Not saying you are old just saying that is the case with me. STIHL started putting microprocessor chips in the CDI module with the MS 361 in 2002 and all models introduced since then to give the engine digital variable ignition timing. It is set at around 15 degrees at cranking speed and goes up and down based on RPM once the engine is running."
Once you get it going and broken in it will likely be easier. Even a reassembled 361 w new Meteor piston and Caber rings yanked the cord out of my hand without the decomp on initially. This variable timing of the last two decades vs fixed timing in older saws is something I didn't know til now and no one talks about much. (Hadn't thought to check my flywheel key on the 361 to make sure it's okay after the last owner toasted this saw. Just finally getting a better understanding of the whole timing thing.)
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Mine was the same way. You get use to it, or at least I did. Takes a bit of getting use to so you can then get up the strength to pull it fast enough to start the beast.
I once had a Grizzly 660 ATV, and there was no way to pull the start cord. Maybe 2 or more people could. You don't see many pull cords on ATVs anymore. Legacy, that has finally gone bye bye.
why not? I drop start my 881 exclusively and have never had an issue, im 5' 9" and 135 pounds, built like a toothpick, any idea whats different between the 088 and 881? maybe something to do with timing?
you should be pulling the cord till it hits compression, then a sharp yank but I never do, never broke a cord or messed up the recoil assembly either
ive had a 5hp briggs do this and it sucks, I just started pulling harder and ignoring it basically
one tip, if your saw doesnt have it already is to add an elastostart handle, it makes life so much easier
Funny you mention an atv Montana, my little Kawasaki Bayou 220 has a manual compression release lever on top of the head. With such a small engine, I would have never guessed it even had 1. A 5 yr old can pull that thing over without using it..... strange.
I had a polaris Xplorer 300 2 stroke, I could pull it over by hand fairly easy, dont remember there being a compression release or not
my "new" fourtrax 300 doesnt have working electric start, no way you are kicking it over without the release, I can damn near do jumping jacks on the started lever without it moving
engines are funky!
that polaris had a timing issue where it would dump a bunch of fuel into the exhaust then fire, blew the exhaust right off a few times
my "new" fourtrax 300 doesnt have working electric start, no way you are kicking it over without the release, I can damn near do jumping jacks on the started lever without it moving
engines are funky!
that polaris had a timing issue where it would dump a bunch of fuel into the exhaust then fire, blew the exhaust right off a few times
Reminds me of a Suzuki TM-400 motorcycle that gave me fits to start. Had to put on a heavy duty work boot to start that mother, and hope it didn't kick back. Felt like someone swinging at bottom of your boot with a sledge hammer.
Got a old honda 200sx and it ropes starts pretty easy but it is a little worn.
My old 200 Big Red has great comp, pull past top dead center then give it a good yank, starts every time!
Most atvs have a decomp built in that holds the exhaust valve(s) open a split second at low (starting) rpm.
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Try a new decomp or dill an extra 1/8 hole in the existing one.
My 660 clone would rip the cord out of my hand trying to start it after I put a bb kit on it. I already had a husky decomp in it but had to drill an extra hole in it for the extra displacement, the decomp now has 3 1/8inch holes in it.
My 660 clone would rip the cord out of my hand trying to start it after I put a bb kit on it. I already had a husky decomp in it but had to drill an extra hole in it for the extra displacement, the decomp now has 3 1/8inch holes in it.
Check for fuel building up in the case. You can't compress liquid.
I have a 97 and 99 Fourtrax 300. Pretty indestructible. I weigh about 190 and I can stand on that foot pedal and not move anything with the decomp down.
mines a 94 or 98, id have to check
its been in storage for a few months, needs the entire front end rebuild, new CV's, wheel bearings, front and rear brakes (and master cylinder), need new rims and tires, it needs a ton of work, under $1000 in work tho so I might just fix it and keep it instead of selling, while its apart im planning to add a lift kit and larger tires, disk brakes, the usual good stuff
Perhaps fit a pullstart loop handle ?
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