One of mine still has the original tires. The other needs brakes. I'll check in to the disc idea. Thanks.
Stihl 088 jerks cord out of hand
- Thread starter Hamp363
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I believe you have to go a few inches bigger rim size to get disks
to be honest, I just downshift, these things have wicked engine braking BUT I also have plenty of 15-30 degree hills so stopping isnt possible without brakes, only slowing down
Put a husqvarna 395xp decomp in it, set your low alittle richer.
Install an elasto handle.
Install an elasto handle.
880 was completely redesigned in 2009 from the 088/early 880. Different timing, different coil. I've been delving into this as I've always been unclear why they built the little known MS780 that I have (for mainly a Third World market) and what the differences are. Though mine is only 5-6 years old, it's a bit different than the modern 880/881. Narrow longer handle for freehand ripping big logs. Different carb, Walbro WG-11. Lower hp rating but that's more to do with it being tuned even more for pure torque than the 880. Same modern coil though. Cylinder and piston are different part numbers from the 880, but listed as 880/088 compatible. Same decomp valve. Not sure why it's such a beast to start. Not timing cause there's no jerk back, just like the 088 really hard to pull through full range without giving it two hands all you can. Should do compression test w decomp valve in and out to compare numbers. May just need another hole in decomp valve.
hmm
maybe an 881 coil would work on it? ive never messed with the older ones so im not sure
I run an 81 as my main saw actually, drop start it hundreds of times a day, 20" bar on it and it just rips!
the "correct" way is either on the ground or pinch the rear handle with your thighs, my preferred way when starting something with a long bar is to rest the bar tip on the log im cutting, hold rear handle with right hand and sorta push down/forward while snatching the bejezus out of the cord with my left hand, works great on high compression saws, may help with the 088?
They do help for sure.
And wear a glove
Modern saws and other devices have electronics presumably in the coil that modify spark timing and don't kick back. Can't say about the models being discussed here.
These work well on the big saws, just pull hard and fast , show the saw who’s boss , my Kart saws will kick you like a mule if you don’t,
Something obvious I never quite understood til I realized the kick back in hard starting is all about premature spark, is to try pulling it with switch in off position or plug wire off. That way you separate whether you're getting an actual kick back from timing being off or you're just getting the cord ripped out of your hand at max compression by a beast of a saw (where starting from TDC and using a D handle is the only solution). At least we're not crank starting cars anymore. Innumerable people broke wrists and arms starting Model T's.
The 088 and 880 had combustion chamber changes to likely make them easier to start plus the timing retard in start mode. Only have trouble here when too much fuel is in the case on 1122 or 1124 models. My 660 is still at 32° with much higher compression now. The seat started to seap fuel amd it will rip a D handle right out of your hand. It fires with very little piston speed maybe 300-400 rpm. To much fuel slows it down enough to backfire. When does start with no choke at wot it smokes badly from the flood. Pretty common problem with a dirty seat or a bad needle.
088 has the largest combustion chamber and likely the lowest compression ratio. Is it gasket delete or machined down?
No completely original, no modifications. Sorry I am not the Original Poster who has this issue. My 088 is fine, but I'm watching this thread with interest.
He either has an ignition advance issue or too much fuel. I've never had any trouble with anything including 088 cylinders or any of my 084s being hard to start that wasn't dumping fuel. Never repaired but one 880 and it only needed pto parts.
Many people change things not knowing the flywheel locations or correct coils for that case or the flywheel moved. After making many coil updates on many different Stihl models most times the flywheel needed to move. One key width or more was common. Your talking about quite a bit maybe 10° on larger saws and more on smaller ones. This is where most people run into trouble. Tossing the key and starting from scratch is the best way to go. Base timing can be off 3° due to various machine processes and magnet bed locations. Once it's running you can put a light in it. The light will show the prestart location if you spin it just right with the plug out. Most mechanics have no idea where to start and what is a good baseline to start at. 361 and 441 plus some others have a wide range of ignition timing. The 0000 model coil is narrower ranging and usually requires more initial advance lead.
Don't mind me with fourty plus years of swapping around ignition systems to make things work again. Go see for yourself. Once you made a 200ATC run right with a Ford Bronco or pu truck ignition box you start to understand how all these things work. Distributors become ease especially with magnetic triggers if you understand magnetos, hall effect sensors, and others various ways of collapsing the feild without using points and a cap. Unilight has its merits running an optical eye but they don't like high voltage spikes like you get in boats when you release the power trim switches
It never ends well. Sticking to these simple mag fired setups is best usually with a built in chip not the external ones. Some of these 1124s here are a two peice setup from the factory. You can't mix parts to them except a flywheel change that will likely need to be relocated for proper timing. Having a frozen start advance is another problem they can experience or no running advance at all making them easy to start but quite lazy with limited power. The two peice systems can also have a weak coil with spark scatter that will drive anyone nutz!Fuel in the case is normally the issue with hard starts and sheared off flywheel keys. Just for the record the key is an indexing part not a locator or stop pin. Flywheels do not need set keys at all. They are used to aide in easy of timing the ignition on chainsaws. Bigger engines may use them for balance or other factors beyond timing.
Mine has decent compression but does burn oil so most likely it has more wear.
I have an 83 and an 84, redid the top end on the 84 with the driveshaft and reverse. Both run well and don't burn oil, use them around here like a tool almost daily to care for our 2 1/2 acres. Best $350 I ever spent ( that was for both of em!! ).
I traded a ms 170 for mine about 5 years ago. Most i have done is repaired the brakes and tubed the tires.
