Stihl 362 Won't Start

[Greenmachine]

Hi All,

This 362 won't start anymore. Here's what I've done so far:

-got spark with new plug
-dumped fuel and no water in there. Replaced with fresh mix.
- fuel filter looks fine but fuel line shows some cracking near the filter
- cleaned the carb but not rebuilt yet
- compression seems ok. Passes the "dangle by the starter rope" test.
- haven't messed with the carb knobs because it ran and idled a day or two ago.


It started a couple days ago, ran fine for a half hour. Now won't start.

Will run for like a second if I hold the throttle at WOT and pull start.

My plan is to change the fuel lines and filter and rebuild the carb.

Thanks for your help in advance.

 

[sean donato]

Does it start if you give it a shot of gas down the carb or in the plug hole? Confirmed spark with a spark tester?
If there's a crack in one place on a fuel line the rest is typically close to follow, so I think your headed in the right direction. Saws jusg don't run one day then not a few days later, so something changed abruptly and a fuel line breaking could be just something like that.

 

[Greenmachine]

Thanks Sean! I tried carb cleaner in the carb hole to no effect. I'll report back once I've replaced those parts I mentioned in the first post. Thanks for the response!

I don't have a spark tester. But there's spark when I check it against the jug.

 

[Wood Doctor]

It may pass the drop test for compression, but I have a feeling low compression is the problem. I had no choice but to rebuild the top end on a 362 a few years back. Rings were gone because somebody straight gassed it. The saw ran fine after I installed a new top end.

 

[Greenmachine]

That's a bummer wood doctor. Yes the compression didn't feel particularly tight to me though it did pass the drop test.

I'm still amateur to all this repair stuff. I don't see any scratch marks on the piston so I figured rings must be fine. I guess rings can get worn out without causing scratches?

 

[cookies]

Yes saw rings can simply wear out, loose spring tension or even get stuck in their grooves from carbon or physical damage. If you want to diag saws you will need to invest in a couple basic tools or you will be left guessing and throwing parts at it until you get it right. I might Suggest a mighty vac compression tester, mighty vac pressure/vac tester and a inline spark tester that has a incandescent light bulb.
I would pull the plug and set the saw with either the muffler facing down or the plug hole facing down for half a hour to see if excess fuel drains out then see if it will start with a shot of fuel mix with it set on choke/high idle. If nothing happens get a inline spark tester and with the plug in see if its sparking.

 

[Greenmachine]

Thanks cookies. I have a pressure/vacuum tester but haven't checked yet because I don't have the right adapter I think for this newish saw. The carb/jug design is very different than the older Stihls I've worked on.

I guess I should pony up for the right adapter before proceeding with the rings? Maybe it's the seals and not the rings?

 

[cookies]

get some tire innertube rubber, cut sections out as sealing gaskets to block off the intake and exhaust portsand use the impulse port to test from...I would start with the spark test then test compression then vac/pressure test as moving from least work to most is the lazy mans way!

 

[Greenmachine]

Right on. Thanks I'll do what you suggest.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

replace the cracked fuel line.

 

[oldbuzzard]

Hi All,

This 362 won't start anymore. Here's what I've done so far:

-got spark with new plug
-dumped fuel and no water in there. Replaced with fresh mix.
- fuel filter looks fine but fuel line shows some cracking near the filter
- cleaned the carb but not rebuilt yet
- compression seems ok. Passes the "dangle by the starter rope" test.
- haven't messed with the carb knobs because it ran and idled a day or two ago.


It started a couple days ago, ran fine for a half hour. Now won't start.

Will run for like a second if I hold the throttle at WOT and pull start.

My plan is to change the fuel lines and filter and rebuild the carb.

Thanks for your help in advance.

Straight 362 or 362C?

 

[Greenmachine]

Straight 362 or 362C?

I'm not sure but I'll check when I get home in a couple days.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Straight 362 or 362C?

So, you're saying the Cs are gay?

 

[Greenmachine]

Straight 362 or 362C?

Straight 362.

 

[Greenmachine]

Update:

Changed both fuel lines, fuel filter, and rebuilt the carb.

Starts and revs but won't idle. I haven't adjusted the screws yet because it's too late to tune a chainsaw here. I'll try tuning it in the morning and report back here tomorrow.

 

[cookies]

If it has a decomp valve I would remove it and see if it is fully closing...they like to accumulate oily goop and carbon that gums them up holding them partially open.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

If it has a decomp valve I would remove it and see if it is fully closing...they like to accumulate oily goop and carbon that gums them up holding them partially open.

Or, bent and can’t seal properly.

 

[Greenmachine]

Thanks guys I'll check out the decomp valve.

Well the saw runs now. Yay! But it doesn't seem to like starting after its warmed up. It'll start if I depress the throttle all the way and pull start. My mac super pro 80 is the same.

Thoughts?

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Thanks guys I'll check out the decomp valve.

Well the saw runs now. Yay! But it doesn't seem to like starting after its warmed up. It'll start if I depress the throttle all the way and pull start. My mac super pro 80 is the same.

Thoughts?

Throttle screw in too far? What rpms at idle? Adjust in until the chain starts to move, then back it off till chain stops.