Stihl 441C upgrade question; 20" bar dead?

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Yeah, that bar is shot.

I've been down the dual bucking spike, long bar rabbit hole a few times on different saws, especially this 441c. I am now back to a 20" bar and the original bucking spike. The oversize dual spikes look cool, but have no practical use for my tree jobs. But I'm in Oklahoma so the bark is thin around these parts. It differs based on your location.

Mission drives the gear - meaning, determine what you are doing with the saw. Felling, bucking, topping, limbing. What tree size you cut the majority of the time? If a 20" will do most of your work, stick with a 20". If you need the occasional longer bar, it wouldn't hurt to have one on hand, but I sure as hell wouldn't run a long bar just to run one.

Regarding the HO oiler? My 441c oils a 24" very well, but haven't tried it on anything longer. An other forum member will have to chime in on a 28" and how it oils.


I leave a Stihl light 28” bar with a big clutch cover and dawgs on my 441 all the time, my oiler is opened all the way and it oils just fine as long as the oiler holes on the bar are clean. As mentioned above, the job you do dictates the equipment you use. The 441 lives in my truck, and I usually don’t know what I’m getting in to. Being mostly in the midwest or Allegheny part of the U.S a 28 (or 27 since I run a Stihl bar) can handle pretty much all the wood I cut. I also know a guy who runs two 441s and a 440 that both live with the small dawg/clutch cover and a 20” bar. They cut really well, even stock, and I like how they handle more than one with a long bar. He’s on a horse farm and has a 660 for when he needs a bigger bar. Mind you, my 441 is stock as are his. We’re going to run them that way until they go out of warranty.

I ran an 044 for a long time (until August 2018 when it died a sad death) when I was working on the west coast as a firefighter every summer. It was set up as a west coast saw and I ran a 32” bar on it. Out there, skip chain made sense. In the midwest or east coast, it does not. It was a wrap handle with the big dawgs and clutch cover. When I came back east it went to a 25 or 28.

There is nothing wrong with a stock saw, especially a 441. They do 90% of the work on the planet. The only changes I’ve ever made were to open a baffle on a late model MS460... They were severely constricted. There’s no intrinsic need to modify a saw.
 
Dang, y'all respond fast. OK, I need a new bar for my stock 310. I have only ever bought Stihl chains, and I have a few. So, I plan on buying a bar that works with those chains. If you ask me specs on the chains, I will say, "I don't know. I bought what the guy handed me, and they have fit just as well as what came on the saw."

Based on that, I understand y'all recommend

Stihl ES with replacable sprocket nose
Cannon
Sugihara
Tsumura (particularly Light-n-Tough)

You also say that Oregon or Carlton aren't too bad.

Here's the thing. I am still learning and will likely destroy this bar too due to not being good at using it. Also, my needs are not desperate. With that in mind, I had gone to Amazon to find something cheap since I expect it to be in the garbage in a year. I had settled on this.

Oregon 105668 Replacement Bar And Chain Combo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FSZ0CBI/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 or

by Timber Ridge - Stihl Chainsaw Bar & Chain Combo. 20" 3/8" LP Pitch .050 Gauge
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CFNUZU/ref=psdc_9425917011_t3_B01FSZ0CBI

My favorite thing about those.............. cheap as crap, so I won't be upset when I ruin them.

But, with all this in mind, what should I buy? I'm meaning, please feel free to just give me a link to an item, and I will go buy it. I'll learn also, but I need to actually purchase.
 
And here are a few of my 261c. Same method, dremel, screwdriver, and needlenose...

20190105_143640.jpg
 

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I forgot to mention the Magnum sticker.

They are gauranteed to add around .000008675309% horsepower to a Stihl. My 441c came with a Magnum sticker, but I may add a 2nd one for some additional gains. Double Magnum...

@1Alpha1 can hook yo ass up.

:chop:
 
Dang, y'all respond fast. OK, I need a new bar for my stock 310. I have only ever bought Stihl chains, and I have a few. So, I plan on buying a bar that works with those chains. If you ask me specs on the chains, I will say, "I don't know. I bought what the guy handed me, and they have fit just as well as what came on the saw."

Based on that, I understand y'all recommend

Stihl ES with replacable sprocket nose
Cannon
Sugihara
Tsumura (particularly Light-n-Tough)

You also say that Oregon or Carlton aren't too bad.

Here's the thing. I am still learning and will likely destroy this bar too due to not being good at using it. Also, my needs are not desperate. With that in mind, I had gone to Amazon to find something cheap since I expect it to be in the garbage in a year. I had settled on this.

Oregon 105668 Replacement Bar And Chain Combo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FSZ0CBI/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 or

by Timber Ridge - Stihl Chainsaw Bar & Chain Combo. 20" 3/8" LP Pitch .050 Gauge
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CFNUZU/ref=psdc_9425917011_t3_B01FSZ0CBI

My favorite thing about those.............. cheap as crap, so I won't be upset when I ruin them.

But, with all this in mind, what should I buy? I'm meaning, please feel free to just give me a link to an item, and I will go buy it. I'll learn also, but I need to actually purchase.

Of those two options, I would take the Oregon.

Never heard of this other one.
 
I forgot to mention the Magnum sticker.

They are gauranteed to add around .000008675309% horsepower to a Stihl. My 441c came with a Magnum sticker, but I may add a 2nd one for some additional gains. Double Magnum...

@1Alpha1 can hook yo ass up.

:chop:


They're not cheap, but worth every penny. :rock2:
 
It might break the bank but the stihl light bar in 28 actually balances pretty well with the 441c or at least it did with mine. If you held it by the 1/2 wrap it didn’t go super nose heavy. Just started tipping that way.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
don't run your chain so tight and make sure the oiler isn't plugged or you will ruin your new bar as badly as the old one. I have never seen one burnt so bad...holy not payin' attention Batman!

when its smokin' you are well beyond a maintenance session..

anyhoo, back to spending cutleg's money..
 
Man, y'all all helped me alot, and, holeycow, you nailed what I did:

1. I ran the chain tight because I thought I was supposed to do that.
2. My oiler was plugged because I didn't know the mechanism by which a bar got oiled.

Never underestimate my ignorance!!!
 
Most chains on nearly anything at all are better run slightly on the loose side than slightly on the tight side.

There should be a little bit of “hang” on a chain on a 20” bar, imo. Like almost about a half of a few drivers showing below the bar

And ya, it was obvious what you did.
 
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