stihl chainsaw problem

[dblack]

hello everyone. i own a stump grinding business. i recently got a contract for an 85 stump job. most of these are 16-34 inches in diameter and white oak. the logger who was there previously left the stumps about 2 to 3 feet high so before i can grind any of them i have to cut them off. i have a vermeer sc252 which is not really big enough for the job but i am making it work. i have 4 stihl chainsaws. a ms180c with 14" bar, a ms290 with a 20" bar, an 024AV wood boss with an 18" bar, and a ms250 with an 18" bar. the ms180 is about a year old, the 290 is almost brand new, the 024 is around 17 years old and the ms250 has less than 5 tanks of gas through it. while running the ms290 i noticed the chips do not fly out correctly when the saw is horizontal and this causes the oiler to clog and the chain to burn. i have also had this problem with the 180. the 024 has very little power (loss of compression?) but hasn't had an issue yet(not sure if it is considered one of stihl's pro saws?). i bought the ms250 about a week ago because i needed another saw and was hoping i wouldn't run into the same problem that i did with the 180 and the 290. i bought stihls biggest homeowner saw because this malfunction occurs three times as often with the 290 and i assume it was because of the adjustable oiler on their farm and pro saws. i am about half done with the job now. i know the oiler works on all these saws when used for bucking and limbing. my questions are:

has anyone else ever experienced this(chain burning out)?
was buying the new ms250 a bad idea?
would it be a good idea to try a pro saw from stihl such as a 362 or a 440, 441, or 460?-my local dealer did not think this was a valid problem and thought i should just buy a big saw...i do not want to spend another 700 bucks unless i am sure it will help me)

i would really like to have another stihl if i am forced to get another saw

thanks in advance

 

[Aldiehoggydoggy]

Stump cutting is hard on equipment. Especially home owner saws. I like using at least a 70cc saw for stumps with a semi chisel chain. Yes I would go with a pro saw because most models seem to have higher output adjustable oilers. I'd look for a good used 460 put a 25" on it and don't look back.

 

[treeslayer2003]

check your bar oil hole it may be clogged but these sound like mighty small saws for 30" oak it may be your working them pretty hard also be sure to keep chains very sharp a saw that size needs all the help it can get in oak that size and if those stumps are seasoned that will be even more hard on em just my opinion good luck

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Stump cutting is hard on equipment. Especially home owner saws. I like using at least a 70cc saw for stumps with a semi chisel chain. Yes I would go with a pro saw because most models seem to have higher output adjustable oilers. I'd look for a good used 460 put a 25" on it and don't look back.

Yeah, you're really undersawed there. stumps are the dirtiest, densest part of the tree. You're also over barred. I usually consider an 18 on a 290 and 16 max on 250 or 024. asking these to cut 30"+ oak stumps isn't fair to the saw. Really want to be 70cc + in wood like that, with a good sharp semi-chisel chain. I actually have a 460 I'm thinking about selling. PM me if you're interested. Jeff

 

[Guido Salvage]

I think ripping them out with a backhoe would have been the way to go.

 

[nmurph]

...at least go to Home Depot and rent a Makita 6410. Then get a (decent) bar, and a couple of loops of Stihl RM (semi-chisel) chain. The bar and chain that come with the rental are useless and won't last through the job. You might just ask if the rental department has any of the saws for sale. They usually go for $250-300. They are robust, strong saws.

 

[blsnelling]

I wouldn't even consider the job with saws that small. You're way under powered. You need a 441C, 460, 461, or 660. Do you have a good dealer? If not, I could probably help you out.

 

[7sleeper]

You might be able to return the 250 and get a 390/391 instead. That would be more in your needed class.

Of course it is always a good idea to listen to what nmurph or Brad has to say!

7

 

[Stihlofadeal64]

Great advice given here. I bought my Stihl 044 from a guy that ran a stump grinding business. He had a 20" and a (32" I believe, not sure because I had no use for it). He meticulously maintained the saw and its still a strong runner today. Like many others I believe you need at least a 70cc saw or at least something in the ball park. Hope you get through it all soon!

 

[jughead500]

Yeap what these guys said.I smoked the bar on my Husky 55 the other day Stumping on a brush Job.Pulled out the Mcculloch 700 and didn't have another Problem.that was Kind of Over kill on some Dead 10" Apple stumps but it got the Job Done and made the Neighbors mad.

 

[XSKIER]

If you return the MS250 to the dealer undamaged, they may apply the previously paid purchase price to a larger saw. I'm pretty sure that stihl will issue a rebate to the dealer so that they can sell your MS250 as a "demo" without any cost to the dealer. I would recommend a MS391 25" with RMF chain as a minimum, then let your wants take you up the scale from there.

I've found that there is a good chance to hit rocks in the cut when trying to flush cut the stumps at ground level. The chain will be destroyed in seconds, and you'll be out $35. Leave the stump up a couple inches, gives more breathing room for the saw, and only takes 30 seconds longer to grind. Just my experience with a MS362 20" and Vermeer SC352.

 

[c5rulz]

Everybody is correct on this job warranting a bigger saw.



However, are you using a wedge when you are cutting off the stumps. That will help, particularly with a small saw to stop the weight of the block from binding the chain.

 

[old-cat]

85 stumps is way too much work to do with a chainsaw, I don't care what size or power. I've cut a few down to ground level. I say again, TOO much to ask of a chainsaw!
An excavator can do the job like a cake walk!

 

[c5rulz]

85 stumps is way too much work to do with a chainsaw, I don't care what size or power. I've cut a few down to ground level. I say again, TOO much to ask of a chainsaw!
An excavator can do the job like a cake walk!

I guess you missed the part of him having a "stump grinding business" and not a "tearing out stumps with a gigantic excavator business".:bang:

I am guessing there is a pretty big price jump from a Vermeer 262, (air cooled 2 cylinder if I remember correctly) and an excavator big enough to take out stumps. :rolleyes2:

 

[Trailtrimmer]

Buy this, toss a 24" or 28" bar on it and don't look back.

http://www.arboristsite.com/tradin-post/234844.htm

Or like others have said, a Stihl 460 or 660 would also fit the bill, but to have anything less than a 70cc pro saw for what you are trying to do will be a waste of time or too much punishment for your equipment.

 

[nmurph]

...and I would guess that if they want the stumps ground and not dredged out of the dirt, that appearance must be important. That means filling the holes left by the stump and by the excavator.

BTW, I should have mentioned that HD rents the saws for about $45/d. You should be able to get them done in one day. That's 8 stumps/hr on a 10hr day. Unless the majority of the stumps are the 36" variety, it is doable in one day...oh, my aching back!!

 

[c5rulz]

...and I would guess that if they want the stumps ground and not dredged out of the dirt, that appearance must be important. That means filling the holes left by the stump and by the excavator.

BTW, I should have mentioned that HD rents the saws for about $45/d. You should be able to get them done in one day. That's 8 stumps/hr on a 10hr day. Unless the majority of the stumps are the 36" variety, it is doable in one day...oh, my aching back!!

Actually a pretty good idea.

When you take it back, complain that the chain don't cut worth a cr@p.:yoyo:

 

[Moparmyway]

i noticed the chips do not fly out correctly when the saw is horizontal and this causes the oiler to clog and the chain to burnwould it be a good idea to try a pro saw from stihl such as a 362 or a 440, 441, or 460?-my local dealer did not think this was a valid problem and thought i should just buy a big saw...i do not want to spend another 700 bucks unless i am sure it will help me)

i would really like to have another stihl if i am forced to get another saw

thanks in advance

Most of the HO saws have a ridge on the inside of the side cover. This will impede chip ejection and cause the problem you are having. Grind the ridge away and the problem should be solved.

IMHO, you definately need a 70cc saw or bigger. If you get a 70cc, Brad, Terry, or Randy can woods port it for you and you wont EVER wish you had more, unless you develope CAD (like the rest of us) and then feel like the 70cc saw is just for trimming and you really dont mind slinging around a 90cc saw

 

[dblack]

hey guys. i do use wedges pretty often when i am sawing. i also purchased a bump spike for the other side of the bar. that has helped alot. i noticed that moparmyway said to grind the ridge on the inside of the side cover off. are there any other tips like this i can use to keep the saws i have from burning out or bogging down? i will look into buying a 440 or 460 in the future.

thanks guys

 

[Brushwacker]

...at least go to Home Depot and rent a Makita 6410. Then get a (decent) bar, and a couple of loops of Stihl RM (semi-chisel) chain. The bar and chain that come with the rental are useless and won't last through the job. You might just ask if the rental department has any of the saws for sale. They usually go for $250-300. They are robust, strong saws.

The 6401 I know does fine with a 28" bar. On stumps I much prefer semi chisel or best RM Stihl chain. I feel skip tooth is an advantage also. #1 keep your chains sharp, carry extra's to carry you through. Chains not sharp enough is probably most the problem if your bars are getting hot and the oilers work. Short bars on small stumps . The bar sticking out on the other end makes the contact point for debris that much larger and chains and with occaisonal contact with abrasives (sand,stones etc. don't stay sharp period. Try to clean up dirt off the cut area the best you can in a reasonable amount of time. Debark with an axe, if you have water pressure availuble it might help also to spray off dirt. Your saws potential is more so affected by your chains sharpness then its power. 16 to 18" bars on what you have + a bigger saw with 24 to a 32" bar is going to speed things up a lot. You can alternate a 20" bar on your big saw also if you want to go through the smaller stumps faster.