stihl chainsaw problem

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We use a 390xp and a 32" bar for stumps and walk all the way around it if we can't cut straight though it, i couldn't imagine using a small saw for cutting down a stump.:msp_scared:
 
hey guys. i do use wedges pretty often when i am sawing. i also purchased a bump spike for the other side of the bar. that has helped alot. i noticed that moparmyway said to grind the ridge on the inside of the side cover off. are there any other tips like this i can use to keep the saws i have from burning out or bogging down? i will look into buying a 440 or 460 in the future.

thanks guys

You are going to cause more wear and tear and premature death of your small saws doing a job like this.

I love the Home Depot rental saw idea. You can rent the saw and pick up a spare chain for about $80, beat the snot out of it and return it when completed. No $700+ dollar investment and you save your own equipment and a ton of time.
 
We use a 390xp and a 32" bar for stumps and walk all the way around it if we can't cut straight though it, i couldn't imagine using a small saw for cutting down a stump.:msp_scared:

Small stump , small saw. Large stump, large saw. If I had 20 15" stumps, I'd rather be using a good 50 to 60cc saw with a 16" bar and save the big 32" saw for the 30ish and up. Seems unnecessary to be spending for the wear and tear on the bigger saw in a bunch of smaller stuff, less time sharpening the chains, easier on the back. I usually have enough saws to match up nicely to different jobs.
1 thing most agreeable with about everyone here is the OP needs a bigger saw on the job he is on and the rental idea sounds good . If stump grinding is going to be ongoing for you you will want to buy a bigger saw after using 1. I haven't used anything that I liked better then my ms 66O on stumps. The biggest Husky I used is a 385 and its nice. The 64cc Makita isn't that big but it is impressive for its displacement, well built and comfortable to use, can be upgraded to 79 cc and affordable compared to the bigger boys. The biggest point not to forget is keep those chains sharp.
 
We don't use the 390 on every stump obviously if its a small stump we use a smaller (372 20") saw but the majority of the trees we remove are 24"+
 
Buy a 441 if you cut a lot of stumps close to the ground. It has a better air filtration which doesn't hurt when you're raising a lot of dust. That 385 mentioned earlier is a good deal also.

I wouldn't bother with the saws you have, cutting stumps low is a tasking job even for the best of em.Even for the smaller stumps i rather slap a short bar on a big saw. But stupms being what they are usually call for larger bars anyways. Don't forget lots of chains. :bang:
 
Everybody is correct on this job warranting a bigger saw.



However, are you using a wedge when you are cutting off the stumps. That will help, particularly with a small saw to stop the weight of the block from binding the chain.


Good point!
 
Unless I was on a tight budget, I wouldn't even screw around with a 44 or 46.......66 all the way.

Tony
 
My new-to-me Stihl 046 Mag cut off a 22" lodgepole stump in about 7 seconds with a 20" bar and 8 tooth sprocket. The right tool for the right job.
 
hey guys. i do use wedges pretty often when i am sawing. i also purchased a bump spike for the other side of the bar. that has helped alot. i noticed that moparmyway said to grind the ridge on the inside of the side cover off. are there any other tips like this i can use to keep the saws i have from burning out or bogging down? i will look into buying a 440 or 460 in the future.

thanks guys

be sure oiler adjustment is tuned all the way up but don't force it sharp chain don't rush those little saws like everyone said you almost really need bigger saw my opinion 044 20" is versatile you can get by with it doing almost any thing but easier to handle than a 660 30" :msp_wink: jmho
 
If you are in the stump grinding business then you need a very large saw. The flare of a tree can get very large even from a tree that has a relatively small dbh. Every inch you cut off the stump with the saw will save grinder teeth and time. I think an MS660 is certainly not overkill for stumping. Also consider some of the larger old saws such as the big ole Macs and Homelites. Even a Stihl 070 or something like that would do you good. These old saws are heavy and not the best option these days for use in the woods but for stumping they're fine as you don't have to tote them around all day bucking logs. They can often be picked up for a reasonable price.

If you're serious about being in the stump business, get yourself a big saw. You are WAY undergunned with what you have.
 
hello everyone. i own a stump grinding business. i recently got a contract for an 85 stump job. most of these are 16-34 inches in diameter and white oak. the logger who was there previously left the stumps about 2 to 3 feet high so before i can grind any of them i have to cut them off. i have a vermeer sc252 which is not really big enough for the job but i am making it work. i have 4 stihl chainsaws. a ms180c with 14" bar, a ms290 with a 20" bar, an 024AV wood boss with an 18" bar, and a ms250 with an 18" bar. the ms180 is about a year old, the 290 is almost brand new, the 024 is around 17 years old and the ms250 has less than 5 tanks of gas through it. while running the ms290 i noticed the chips do not fly out correctly when the saw is horizontal and this causes the oiler to clog and the chain to burn. i have also had this problem with the 180. the 024 has very little power (loss of compression?) but hasn't had an issue yet(not sure if it is considered one of stihl's pro saws?). i bought the ms250 about a week ago because i needed another saw and was hoping i wouldn't run into the same problem that i did with the 180 and the 290. i bought stihls biggest homeowner saw because this malfunction occurs three times as often with the 290 and i assume it was because of the adjustable oiler on their farm and pro saws. i am about half done with the job now. i know the oiler works on all these saws when used for bucking and limbing. my questions are:

has anyone else ever experienced this(chain burning out)?
was buying the new ms250 a bad idea?
would it be a good idea to try a pro saw from stihl such as a 362 or a 440, 441, or 460?-my local dealer did not think this was a valid problem and thought i should just buy a big saw...i do not want to spend another 700 bucks unless i am sure it will help me)

i would really like to have another stihl if i am forced to get another saw

thanks in advance

I used 029 and 039s to flush cut lots of stumps, mixed hardwoods, and a couple of those stumps were even in Virginia. Buy more chain and change out chains more often. Make the oiler hole in the bar bigger and if you are running super tacky bar oil thin it down so that it flings off the tip of the bar better. I used 3/8 chain because it was what I could get cheapest.

Bigger saw would be a nice fix in terms of time spent cutting but not a must have, chains are a must have.

Currently using a Husky 365 to do the same task, much better oiling ability. I would pass on the any Stihls other than the 660 if you are running a stump grinding business, Husky 395 if you want an all orange stump hating machine. Get a used one if $700.00 is your price limit. There is a HUGE difference in flush cutting stumps with 50-80cc and 90+cc. The 395 will do it better but a 660 works as well. You will still need a lot of chains if you want the process to go fast.
 
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Bone stock other than a dual port muffler. I saw zero grind marks in the exhaust port when I checked. 8T sprocket really makes the chain hustle.
 
MS stihl 660 bar & chain not getting enough oil

I'm not sure a stihl saw is the way to go at all! I'm sorry if this offends die hard fans out there but let me explain my situation. I purchased a Stihl MS 660 around 8 years ago as a hobbyist with the intent of chain saw milling and felling for strictly hobbyist work (essentially light use - non commercial) I have rarely used it and typically only for cross cutting with the small 18" bar. I've noticed the larger bars just don't get enough oil and the little oil hole clogs readily after just light use. I thought I've been doing something wrong so have followed advise on this forum to clean the bar grooves, oiler hole, et, etc but find that now when I really need the tool for milling a downed oak 24" wide that the oiler just doesn't put out - like a disappointing wife.

For your stump grinding I am not a stihl fan or a fan of so called "German ingenuity" Personally I like American or Japanese ingenuity. To all those that have saws that work I'm trully sorry, but I've read too many posts of stihl owners who's oilers don't put out. My saw is with all practical purposes new. I should not have to upgrade the oiler on such a beast. I just want something that works! I paid a lot of money for this tool. It has seen little use. I'm running a stihl saw, stihl bar, stihl chain, and stihl oil. I've turned that feeble oil adjustment screw all the way up to little avail. What a disappointment. It's comical, but I picture no trees left in Germany and thus the saws never being tested leading to ivory tower designs by engineers in white lab coats.

What other saw does anyone recommend?
 
I recommend you start a thread and ask your question there. Hi-jacks tend to get ignored, especially when it is a newb.

Start a thread, and welcome to AS..btw, 660's are generally viewed as stingy with the oil.
 
decisions

i made it through this job using what i had. the 024 AV is definitely my favorite. right now i will work with what i have but if i get another job this big i will either get an 046 or a 460 with a 20 inch bar. thank you guys for your advice though
 

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