Stihl MS 192 C- I Think I Broke Something

[jus2fat]

That's funny. Please elaborate.

opcorn:

You probably only rotated 2 times or over-rotated 4 times - - the rotation # is critical..!!

You know (or I hope you do) what I meant...just take it to the end of the piston meeting cylinder wall.

I think "one" must have a sense of humor to even live today...must be able to laugh at yourself..!!
(like a few days ago I was trying to find something I had just used...??..discovered I was holding it in my hand..!!)

J2F

 

[Wood Doctor]

Don't Forget the Knot

Using the "rope method" is just a gamble because you don't know where it's actually placed.

J2F

And, OP may not have tied a knot near the end of the nylon cord as I always do and stuffed that inside the jug. The knot almost triples the distance from the top of the piston to TDC than the thickness of the cord does by itself.

 

[jus2fat]

And, OP may not have tied a knot near the end of the nylon cord as I always do and stuffed that inside the jug. The knot almost triples the distance from the top of the piston to TDC than the thickness of the cord does by itself.

Exactly..BUT with the rope being flexible...you still don't know exactly where the pressure is being applied.

With the $1 Stihl rigid plastic piston-stop...you can know exactly where pressure is applied..90° from carb /exhaust.

J2F

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

With the $1 Stihl rigid plastic piston-stop...you can know exactly where pressure is applied..90° from carb /exhaust.

J2F

Sorta what I was trying to extract from all this..., as in what's so special about the miracle $1
rigid plastic piston stop...

Evidently it is designed to thread into the plug orifice (figured you'd like that description better than 'hole'), and protrudes into the cylinder cavity deeply enough to exercise appropriate friction to effectively de-stress the poorly designed mechanism at exactly the correct angle to minimize the possibility of damage or destruction to the stamped rod as it thrusts upward.

Are you all wet yet?

 

[AKDoug]

Don't use the Stihl threaded piston stop. It pushes dead center on the piston on most saws. The threaded piston stop is for the 4-mix engines only. Use the black plastic one.. 0000 895 5903

 

[Wood Doctor]

Sorta what I was trying to extract from all this..., as in what's so special about the miracle $1
rigid plastic piston stop...

Evidently it is designed to thread into the plug orifice (figured you'd like that description better than 'hole'), and protrudes into the cylinder cavity deeply enough to exercise appropriate friction to effectively de-stress the poorly designed mechanism at exactly the correct angle to minimize the possibility of damage or destruction to the stamped rod as it thrusts upward.

Are you all wet yet?

I just compared a 192 (et al.) rod to the rod on an old Farm Boss 041 that was built some 25 years ago. By comparison, the Farm Boss rod is built like a tank, whereas the 192 is built about the same as a Tonka Toy.:msp_sad:

 

[eiklj]

Whack'em with an impact using the compression of the cylinder for resistance and you won't bend anything.

What he said. ^
I do this many times every day over the last 3-4 yrs. and never broke anything.

 

[Andyshine77]

The plastic Stihl piston stop works, but not on every model, especially older saws, it's not a cure all.







This is the last time I'm going to say this. So far the rope method seems to work on every saw made, but these cheap tin foil rod saws. That makes some mad, but only because it's true. The tree care company I do work for, hates the 192 with a passion. Their reasons? Underpowered and not durable.

 

[jus2fat]

The plastic Stihl piston stop works, but not on every model, especially older saws, it's not a cure all.

This is the last time I'm going to say this. So far the rope method seems to work on every saw made, but these cheap tin foil rod saws. That makes some mad, but only because it's true. The tree care company I do work for, hates the 192 with a passion. Their reasons? Underpowered and not durable.

OK..granted the plastic piston-stop may not work on all models and especially the older models.....

BUT..on models it does work well on..it's the preferable alternative to the "rope method"...

AND...the 192T..IS..a homeowner saw and NOT up to quality for a professional tree service operation.

The "little bugger" is what it is...and..(as "Saw Dr") said..when used as designed...very few problems.
("rope and saddle" used his daughter's 192T in Pro operation for some time without complaints)

His 200T likely just needed a new carb...but to some folks 'cheap-economy' out-weighs production..??

J2F

 

[Andyshine77]

OK..granted the plastic piston-stop may not work on all models and especially the older models.....

BUT..on models it does work well on..it's the preferable alternative to the "rope method"...

AND...the 192T..IS..a homeowner saw and NOT up to quality for a professional tree service operation.

The "little bugger" is what it is...and..(as "Saw Dr") said..when used as designed...very few problems.
("rope and saddle" used his daughter's 192T in Pro operation for some time without complaints)

His 200T likely just needed a new carb...but to some folks 'cheap-economy' out-weighs production..??

J2F

Well said.

When you work on a saw like the 200T it's obvious why it's so well liked. Money always plays a part, but the tree climbers I've spoken with, think the extra cost is well worth it. If you can run a cheaper tool and have no issues, go for it.

 

[KenJax Tree]

My 200's have paid for themselves 1000 times over and they were probably paid for by lunch time the 1st day on the job. A 192T is a decent little trim saw for when a 200 is overkill but it seems to be getting replaced by the 150T.