Stihl MS 261 - What To Buy Next???

[payj]

Hello!!!

After doing some research I ended up with a 261. It is my first saw. I bought it for general clean up at my house and summer place. I am not a professional, but appreciate high end professional machines....

Sooooooo lets see. I got it with a 20" bar. After doing some research it sounds like this saw can handle this just fine, even though traditionally the 50cc motors tend to like 18"

My saw has the "green" safety chain. What should I upgrade that with? I just want a great all around chain?

I also here of "mods" you can do and there is someone called "mastermind" that does them. Is that a wise thing to do on a new saw? Is he the best person to have do the mods?

What else should I consider besides to go out and use it lol.

THANKS

 

[lambs]

You bought a great saw. Enjoy it and run it like you stole it. After about 20 tanks of gas, it will be broken in, and then you can decide if you want to mod it.

You didn't say what you are cutting with it, but that matters. It will cut 20" pine a lot easier than 20" of some hardwoods.

Have fun.

 

[payj]

I will be cutting some pine and honestly nothing too big. It will be used for limbing some smaller stuff too. Any ideas on chains? Or is the factory one ok. I heard the safety chain is not all that great.

 

[Tnshaker]

Get that safety chain off there! Anything is better than that providing you are aware of kickback. 261's are nice saws . Even better with a few mods.

 

[payj]

Can you guys please go into further details. Im kind of a newb. In other words if you suggest parts etc, can you please give me the specific brand or part #?

Thanks

 

[Tnshaker]

Go with Oregon lpx chain or Stihl RSC yellow label. Much better choices. Be sure to know diver count and gauge your bar is set up for. Also .325 or 3/8 chain. It should say on the side of the bar.

 

[Icedogs28]

Great choice! love that saw!
it doesnt sound like you need major power increase... i would just muffler mod it, retune your carb and call it a day. enjoy!

 

[jus2fat]

I am 'guessing' that you are are interested in buying another saw rather than a trade-up' deal..??

I would go with a MS 362 with a 16-18"" bar/chain...then take off the 20" bar/chain and put it (16/18) on the 261..
(you're just gonna do a bar and chain swap-out)

(I've got a 'bad' 026..and 18" is it's limit..but I maybe do expect more than maybe most from a basically stock saw.

Put the..'used'..20" bar and chain on the on the New MS 362 and you're good to go...and...for free..!!

EDIT: Also order the New 362 with the same pitch/gauge or this swap won't work and you're screwed..!!
(I hope you have a good Stihl dealer that knows what I''m referring to..!!)

J2F

 

[bower4311]

Whoa whoa whoa...you're going to be mixing a .325 bar doing that. The 261 usually comes in .325 if I'm right, the 362 would be 3/8. Yes you can switch the rim sprocket, but you don't want to run .325 on the 362 IMO.

I also here of "mods" you can do and there is someone called "mastermind" that does them. Is that a wise thing to do on a new saw? Is he the best person to have do the mods?

Haha I love this site. Many people other than Mastermind mod saws. He seems to be the most popular currently, right along with Brad (blsnelling). Mastermind and Brad are both very involved in this website, giving constant free information and are indeed perfectionists. Many people trust them with their saws.

But...you're going to be looking at $250 at least plus shipping for their work. They do what is called porting. It involves removing and smoothing material in the cylinder of the chainsaw to make it better simply put. The cylinders are cast with many flaws and they take them out, open them up and get the max out of them. Their services are premium, and they increase your power to weight ratio. It's always best to have the most power with the least weight. Unfortunately $250 is a good chunk of money for a homeowner.

What you can do yourself is a muffler mod. Use the search function on the website and you can find all kinds of information on muffler mods. The saws come very "choked up" out of the factory because of the EPA. You can open up the muffler, remove the limiter cap on the carb adjustment (more EPA crap) and improve your saw a good little amount for real cheap.

 

[lambs]

back to chains

OP, You had a question or two about chain. I am assuming you may be new to sawing, so if that is true, you may want to stick with Stihl RM or RMC chain, depending on whether your dealer has both. Do not buy a chain from Stihl that ends with a "3", i.e., RMC3 or RSC3. I think they have stopped making it, but there could be some out there still....and they'll try to get you to take it. They have an extra side plate fin beside of the depth gauge links with 3 little humps on it for "comfort" and less vibration. But that makes it very difficult to adjust the actual depth gauges without hitting the side plate humps with your file, so you can't sharpen it many times.

RS chain (aka chisel chain) cutters, when viewed from the end, are shaped like a "7". RM (aka semi-chisel) cutters are shaped like a "?". You should use a loop of each and see what you think. Chisel chain cuts a little faster but dulls quicker in dirty wood because the shoulder of the cutter actually has a point on it (the "7"). Semi chisel cuts a little slower but holds up longer in dirty wood because the cutting edge is rounded off around the shoulder of the cutter, offering more cutting surface where the cutter enters the wood.

With any chain, you need to be wary of kickback, so wear safety gear and stay alert. Any of them can mess up your day in a hurry.
Ask your dealer to demonstrate filing technique while you are in their shop.

As to a "next" saw, I now have several, but since I got a 261, I do not often pick up the others. Truth be told, a pro class 50 cc saw like what you have bought is all most people need. But if you do get into bigger wood, many people would recommend your next saw be in the 70 cc class, skipping over the 60 cc saws. You really do not likely need all 3 unless you are an AS member and are infected with CAD as I am.

We are all here to help one another learn and offer our opinions, so feel free to ask questions. And welcome to AS.

 

[bryanr2]

Hello!!!

After doing some research I ended up with a 261. It is my first saw. I bought it for general clean up at my house and summer place. I am not a professional, but appreciate high end professional machines....

Sooooooo lets see. I got it with a 20" bar. After doing some research it sounds like this saw can handle this just fine, even though traditionally the 50cc motors tend to like 18"

My saw has the "green" safety chain. What should I upgrade that with? I just want a great all around chain?

I also here of "mods" you can do and there is someone called "mastermind" that does them. Is that a wise thing to do on a new saw? Is he the best person to have do the mods?

What else should I consider besides to go out and use it lol.

THANKS

If you port it, any saw you have will have to be ported. You will find yourself buying saws just to have them ported. CAD will take over. I put great stock in what my wife Kari says and reasons with me on everything except chainsaws. I cannot be reasoned with on them. I dont understand spray tans, dozens of pairs of shoes, why you have to pay someone to paint your nails when they sell the paint at the store.... etc. She doesnt understand saws.:msp_wink: As far as picking the best builder- there are certain builders that stand out on certain models. Like someone already said, Brad (bsnelling) builds a fantastic 261. You can go to the auction threads and see the video of one he built to get an idea. Or use your search function for 261 related threads. As far as Mastermind saws go...... you can find your answer in my sig. He has always delivered with my saws. I've sold some now but since Jan 2012 he has done 14 for me. And he has 3 more of mine in his shop right now.

 

[1Alpha1]

That MS-261 is a fantastic garage saw. :msp_biggrin:

 

[Mastermind]

Brad does a very neat looking and effective muffler mod on the 261.

 

[Mastermind]

If you port it, any saw you have will have to be ported. You will find yourself buying saws just to have them ported. CAD will take over. I put great stock in what my wife Kari says and reasons with me on everything except chainsaws. I cannot be reasoned with on them. I dont understand spray tans, dozens of pairs of shoes, why you have to pay someone to paint your nails when they sell the paint at the store.... etc. She doesnt understand saws.:msp_wink: As far as picking the best builder- there are certain builders that stand out on certain models. Like someone already said, Brad (bsnelling) builds a fantastic 261. You can go to the auction threads and see the video of one he built to get an idea. Or use your search function for 261 related threads. As far as Mastermind saws go...... you can find your answer in my sig. He has always delivered with my saws. I've sold some now but since Jan 2012 he has done 14 for me. And he has 3 more of mine in his shop right now.

How you liking that 2188?

 

[LowVolt]

Congrats on the saw!

I will be posting a video soon of a stock vs. a ported 261. It is like night and day I tell you. I will post a link when I get the comparison done.

Yesssss!!!!! 1,000 posts for this guy!!!!

 

[payj]

I am not looking to buy another saw fro some while.

I have an arborist friend the (dummy me) never contacted before purchase. After the fact, I contacted him and he said while the saw is AWESOME he would run an 18" bar along with 3/8 skip tooth chain? Thoughts, comments, opinions?

 

[blsnelling]

IMHO, .325 is the best chain, although it would pull 3/8 fine. I definately wouldn't use skip chain on it. You're fine with the 20" bar. After you get it ported, you won't even mind burying it

 

[bryanr2]

How you liking that 2188?

It's fananamal!:msp_wub: Fantastic saw bro. Have no regrets spending my 661 money on it.

 

[RogueWave]

Brad does a very neat looking and effective muffler mod on the 261.

+1

 

[wyk]

Since you are new, I would keep the chain you have on it and spend the time learning to keep it out of the dirt and learning to sharpen it before investing in more chain. You are in the PNW, so chain is cheap there and easy to come by when the time is right. That saw likely won't need skip chain unless you do plan to run it with a 20" bar or happen to bury it in a lot of fir(skip is not only just for bar length, but also to clear chips while keeping the revs up). Otherwise, I would spend as much time with your more experienced bud to get some pointers. If that saw came with 3/8, stick with 3/8. Most of the wood in the PNW cuts perfectly fine with a 3/8 on a 50cc saw.