Stihl MS 460 mag chain won't stop

[Chainsaw Jim]

Your clutch looks like it may be fine. I'm thinking a new set of oem springs and a new drum. Someone may have put a worn drum on it to begin with. The springs are under $2 each at the dealer.

 

[Frogfarmer]

New complete clutches are less than $10 plus shipping. I have had zero issues with Farmertec clutches. Their drums may be fine too but I use Oregon. I would not spend the $110 plus at the dealer for OEM. And I use a saw almost everyday.

 

[dlovington]

Thank you Frogfarmer. I am in Australia and everything is more expensive here. I did find the company you mentioned and they were very affordable.
I have to try and get over "made in china" stuff. For a couple of reasons. One is some companies mislead or lie about where their products originate. And China can make quality items if they are forced to. Who ever is contracting them can never give up on there own quality control. They do have the ability.

 

[Big_Wood]

i have had good luck with the farmertec clutches as well. much better option then OEM stihl IMO just because of cost. the OEM clutch shoes actually wear where the springs attach so even with new springs installed they don't last long. if the shoes don't have this wear present or at least not real bad i would replace the springs but more often then not the worn shoes are the problem. their ****** clutches are just one other reason i don't run stihl for a living lol

 

[Phil_C]

Broken springs equal too much travel. Shoes and drum are worn beyond limits. Time for new parts.

I am not sure if that is correct at least not in every situation. On the old 041's with lined clutches. I have seen the clutch material come off and run steel on steel and still not break any springs. The clutches were traveling about 1.5mm more than they should. In my experience what breaks clutch springs is either misfitted washers wearing the springs out, overheating clutches from people revving the saw with the chain jammed in a log, too much play in the clutch bearing or faulty low quality springs.
Looking at the photo it appears there is a bigger gap between two of the clutches. Could be just the way it is sitting due to the lack of springs but make sure the clutches are free moving and don't catch or jam on anything. Also make sure the clutch drum is not out of round or have burs that could catch on the clutches.
Another thing to check is that the oiler drive bar is not bent and catching on the clutch. Unlikely but possible and I have seen it happen where the bar is in it's slot in the clutch drum and catching on the clutches.
Also a lot of people here have suggested you grease the clutch drum bearing. If you do make sure you don't over grease it or you will have a new problem.

 

[StihlKicking]

here's a link to the 460 owners manual if you don't have one. to set chain speed you want the LA screw and not the L screw. needle bearing should have some grease on it. page 40 and page 45
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwi-0ZPZhvrLAhWI7B4KHfonAiMQFggpMAA&url=http://www.stihlusa.com/WebContent/CMSFileLibrary/instructionmanuals/MS460_Manual.pdf&usg=AFQjCNG_6LdWAzHbL7NznT8CZqzP-B2FmQ

^^^this^^^

 

[dlovington]

Alright guys, Update.....
my saw would not idle down. I had bought and installed new aftermarket clutch springs. The high rev idle broke all of the springs.
I was starting to lean towards some sort of air leak. I took the saw into my local Stihl shop for repair. I was expecting some death sentence of a prognoses.
The fix from the dealer was new clutch springs and an adjust to the carburator. It runs and idles fine now.
I was baffled. I am guessing the time frame that I had replaced my clutch springs I had mucked up the adjustments.
Whatever....I have my favorite saw back.
Sorry for bringing up such an old post, I just wanted to thank everyone for such thoughtful and mostly correct information.
Cheers, David