Stihl ms 660 clutch replace

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yep sprocket drum was spinning freely , thanks for the sweet photo's and lesson!
if i replace the clutch, and the fuel line will that resolve the chain spinning issue?
i don't mind spending some $ on parts if it's going to make this saw rock again.
 
here's the needle cage, one side is worn (look next pick) rollers seem to spin .........this can't be the problem really???
Photo on 12-3-16 at 4.07 PM.jpgPhoto on 12-3-16 at 4.07 PM #2.jpgPhoto on 12-3-16 at 4.07 PM #2.jpg
 

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No, I don't think that is your problem, although if the wear is that bad I think I would replace the needle cage while in there. Not too terribly expensive. I was lucky and found a new oem one that was old stock for $8. One thing I never buy aftermarket from China is bearings. Others may feel differently.
On mine, the part of the cage in your fingers that is black was completely gone (as in not to be found). All that was left were the silver bearings with nothing to hold them properly spaced apart. When the shaft spun they would bunch up and not spin properly causing the drum to spin. Before I went in there though, the drum still spun freely with the fingers and I would not have known anything witout removing the C-clip and washer exposing the problem.

I can't really tell you how good a deal you got. But, once you get it running well (almost no matter what you spend) I'll bet I can tell you an MS461 story that will make you feel "comparatively" very happy.
 
no , i didn't try anything, i just started to tear this baby down to get that clutch off cause that was what was originally suggested..........
i'm guessing i can't adjust the carb while the saw is in pieces correct?
 
No, I don't think that is your problem, although if the wear is that bad I think I would replace the needle cage while in there. Not too terribly expensive. I was lucky and found a new oem one that was old stock for $8. One thing I never buy aftermarket from China is bearings. Others may feel differently.
On mine, the part of the cage in your fingers that is black was completely gone (as in not to be found). All that was left were the silver bearings with nothing to hold them properly spaced apart. When the shaft spun they would bunch up and not spin properly causing the drum to spin. Before I went in there though, the drum still spun freely with the fingers and I would not have known anything witout removing the C-clip and washer exposing the problem.

I can't really tell you how good a deal you got. But, once you get it running well (almost no matter what you spend) I'll bet I can tell you an MS461 story that will make you feel "comparatively" very happy.

thanks for the input,
 
It looks like one of those bakelite cage needle bearings from the fiber-esque wear - I'd go ahead and replace that with a new OEM one if you plan on keeping the saw for a while. Make sure you coat the shaft and pack the needle bearing with a good EP grease like the blue synthetic brake caliper grease from O'rielly's, rotate the clutchdrum by hand to get it worked in, then wipe off any that got on the threads/taper of the crankshaft. An impact drill with socket extension (the funny battery drill that ratchets/klacks and slips) works great and lets you remove the clutch easily without putting rope inside the cyl or buying the $6 plastic piston stop too.

Try taking a pic of the idle screw of the carb with the camera on Macro/Flower setting so we can get an idea of where its set at.
 
It looks like one of those bakelite cage needle bearings from the fiber-esque wear - I'd go ahead and replace that with a new OEM one if you plan on keeping the saw for a while. Make sure you coat the shaft and pack the needle bearing with a good EP grease like the blue synthetic brake caliper grease from O'rielly's, rotate the clutchdrum by hand to get it worked in, then wipe off any that got on the threads/taper of the crankshaft. An impact drill with socket extension (the funny battery drill that ratchets/klacks and slips) works great and lets you remove the clutch easily without putting rope inside the cyl or buying the $6 plastic piston stop too.

Try taking a pic of the idle screw of the carb with the camera on Macro/Flower setting so we can get an idea of where its set at.


right now i'm wondering.......... to get the carb off do i simply take off the 2 nut's?
also does the black plastic backing come off when i remove those 2 nut's?
i'd love to take a pic do i need to get the carb off first in order to see the idle screw?
 
ok hold the phone!
a very nice member has given me a shop manual of all things!
i'm going to review the section carburetor removing/installing then i'm going to bed it's almost midnight for me and i think
12 hours with the old girl is enough for the day!
thanks for all the help see ya's in the morn with some fresh pic's and i'm sure more questions..................
bloody brilliant!
 

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