Stihl MS362 No spark

[drsamm]

Need some expert help...bought what I believe to be an MS362 in very nice condition. The model badge was broken off of the recoil starter cover but it appeared to one. (The pic of the recoil cover with the badge is after I replaced it)
Had a scored cylinder/piston. All else in exceptionally good shape. Replaced the cylinder and piston with OEM parts and got it all back together to discover it appears to have no spark. In cleaning up the area around the flywheel and coil, I did get the area wet with some very mild parts cleaner. I have done this countless times with other Stihls and never had an issue. Anyway, went thru the carb while I had it off and it was perfectly clean inside. Pump diaphram was as flexible as new, so I did not opt to rebuild as everything inside was as it should have been. No wires going to the carb, so it is not an M-tronic version. (I assume. Not well versed on all of that) I have taken the coil out to see if it had corrosion on the contact areas from sitting a long time and it appeared to be very minimal - nothing to get upset about, but I did clean the contact areas on both the coil and the flywheel. Checked the plug wire connection into the coil and it appeared fine. Gapped it and put it all back together and still have no spark. As I know of no way to really check a coil, other than arcing from the plug to the cylinder head or other area while pulling the starter cord, it is beginning to appear to me that I need a coil. Mine has 1140 1300B on it, along with MC1140P under that and MS1140 under that. Looked on Ebay and elsewhere and can find no coil with that particular number. Does anybody have an idea of what is needed here? Is there a newer part number? According to the foot pad sticker, my saw was manufactured in 12/09. (Didn't know this model had been out that long) and is 59cc. Anyway, any help or clues of what to do next would be much appreciated. I've attached a few pics of the saw for reference...thanks in advance for any help! Always get great help on this site!!!

 

[dswensen]

Maybe try disconnecting the lead that goes to the kill switch and try her again. Something more to rule out. If she fires, you'll have to be prepared to kill her with the choke.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

Hopefully you remedied what burned it up in the first place.
I'd advise at the very least a new carb kit, crank seals, fuel filter, and tank vent any time a new top end is installed.... especially when the p&c is cooked.
Once you get that far into it you'll likely get the other problems sorted out as you go.

 

[Westboastfaller]

You are asking advice on a coil only?? IDK
Sounds like you would have done all of this or most of this....
...
Is the power wire plugged in properly? try move it around to make sure its not grounding out somewhere.
As mentioned, unplug the wire
May have to eliminate it completely to be certain? Try two different plugs. Put you hand on the outside of the coil wire by the cylinder when you pull it over.
backwoods 101..
And finally....Go buy a coil.

 

[drsamm]

Thank you to all for the suggestions...will try some of them and see what happens.

 

[HarleyT]

Have you tried to start it yet? These newer models have a spark that is hard to detect, compared to the older models.

Put the starter on and try to start it.

 

[drsamm]

Thanks to all for suggestions, but still no spark. Wires are all fine and show continuity from one end to the other. Tried a brand new plug in the place of the brand new one it already had in it and nothing. There is nothing touching on the master control switch where it shouldn't, so I suppose I'm going to have to assume it's the coil. So back to one of my original questions...the number on my coil matches nothing I can find on Ebay or the internet. Closest one I can find is on Ebay. It's 1140 400 1302D. Says it's new and for a 362, which I don't doubt but the question is whether or not there are 14 versions of this saw, with a half a dozen different coils with one not working on another. Anybody have any idea? I don't want to spring for another $65 bucks only to find out that "this one" won't work in the place of the one I have...this one about has me beat - any insight on the part numbers would be much appreciated.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Yet another "can't get a spark" problem with these new high-tech Stihls. I ran into that with a Stihl 661C. The typical method to check for a good spark (remove plug, reconnect plug to its plug wire, connect jumper wire from plug threads to cylinder, pull starter cord with switch on) fails.

Some say it's Stihl's way of getting all buyers to take the saw back to the dealer.

 

[DND 9000]

The coil you have now on your MS 362 should be part number 1140 400 1302 and as I`ve seen on your picture it is a 1140 1300 B version. That means it is a coil that is no longer availible (this exact 1300 B version). The replacement coil for this is the 1140 400 1300 C (description on the coil) with spare part number 1140 400 1302. (spare part number didn`t change) This newer version coil can also be used in previous models of the MS 362 chainsaw and the module has a modified timing map. This coil was first installed from serial number 286521339. Things like that are sometimes hard to say for sure, because TI`s are often different depending on the country and some versions contain information that others (same TI number) don`t have.

I hope that my post is right, but I can`t be 100% sure.

 

[drsamm]

DND9000 - Thank you for putting me on the right track with this coil!! Thru testing everything else, I've become convinced that it is indeed the coil that has gone bad. At least I can think of nothing else it could possibly be. The part number differences had me worried as to compatibility, but it looks like you have cleared it up for me...

 

[Wood Doctor]

DND9000 - Thank you for putting me on the right track with this coil!! Thru testing everything else, I've become convinced that it is indeed the coil that has gone bad. At least I can think of nothing else it could possibly be. The part number differences had me worried as to compatibility, but it looks like you have cleared it up for me...

When I ran into the "no spark 661C" problem last year, the owner took the saw back to the dealer. Sure enough, he replaced the coil and got it going again. Strange thing was that even with no spark visible, the saw would at least start, try to run, and then die in the cut like a weak kitten with no power.

 

[drsamm]

Yes, sounds very similar to what I'm experiencing with this 362 but it shows absolutely no spark, even with one of those in-line glow testers and won't hit a lick regardless of what I do. Just dead as a hammer while cranking on it. I went ahead and ordered a new OEM coil, so I'm looking forward to putting this one to bed once and for all. After all of this, if that doesn't do it I believe I'll take it with me to the woods with my .45 and a few clips and it won't be coming back...when one gets you this frustrated, it sure is tempting...

 

[Wood Doctor]

Yes, sounds very similar to what I'm experiencing with this 362 but it shows absolutely no spark, even with one of those in-line glow testers and won't hit a lick regardless of what I do. Just dead as a hammer while cranking on it. I went ahead and ordered a new OEM coil, so I'm looking forward to putting this one to bed once and for all. After all of this, if that doesn't do it I believe I'll take it with me to the woods with my .45 and a few clips and it won't be coming back...when one gets you this frustrated, it sure is tempting...

I understand your frustration. A few fisherman have used chain saw power heads as rowboat anchors. I prefer to part them out or send them to another saw hack for shipping cost only and let him wrestle with it. Some guys feast on challenges. Let's hope it is the IM that's dead. It's a shame you do not have another coil around to swap out.

 

[drsamm]

Yes sir, I agree completely. This isn't my first rodeo with an engine, large or small, so it is particularly frustrating. I'm pretty much satisfied now that it is the coil, since I've used every diagnostic trick I can think of to isolate the problem. My fear beyond that was simply getting the right OEM replacement part. I've always stuck strictly to OEM parts for my Stihl stuff and have not been sorry yet - except for the prices of most of it, of course. Always try to find good used or new OEM on Ebay or other private sources, if at all possible. Hardly ever resort to a dealer since it would, in many cases, render whatever I'm working on unfeasible economically to fix. I much appreciate the kind responses, information and general conversation from all who replied. I'll post the definite resolution when I do find it - hopefully in a few days when the new coil gets here and I have a few minutes to put it in...

 

[drsamm]

Well got the new OEM coil and finally had a chance to put it in this morning. Saw popped on the third pull on choke, went to fast idle and it sprang to life, as it should. It was definitely the coil this time. From my experience, the Stihl coils seem to be completely reliable but obviously something happened with this one. I've gotten gas on them, mild parts cleaning solvent, you name it and have never had an issue until this one. I'm guessing it was bad when I got the saw, but who knows...it is fixed now and screaming as it should. Thank you to all who responded with good insights and information! Always my first stop when I get really hung up on something with one of these saws...

 

[jmssaws]

I have a coil if you need one.

A mtronic saw will not fire unless you trigger the switch on the side of the carb.

If you check for spark on a cold saw and don't put it in the choke position there will be no spark.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I have a coil if you need one. An mtronic saw will not fire unless you trigger the switch on the side of the carb. If you check for spark on a cold saw and don't put it in the choke position there will be no spark.

I ran into this last year. Throttle control has to be in the choke position for a typical spark check on an Mtronic saw. Not sure why that's not in bold print in the 660C service manual. Regardless, I recommended to the owner to replace the IM, he did, and the saw ran as it should. His would start but bogged down in the cut. The new IM cleaned it up.

 

[drsamm]

My 362 is not an Mtronic, so none of those issues would apply to it. This new coil has done the trick with this one...

 

[drsamm]

My 362 is not an Mtronic, so none of those issues would apply to it. This new coil has done the trick with this one...

 

[dws_az]

A little late I know. However, I too had a coil go out on the same model saw a couple years ago, replaced it and it's been "good to go" since then.

Glad you got it sorted out.