Stihl ms441 cleaning

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EB Saw

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Starting the cleaning and rebuild process of my Ms 441. She has had a rough life but keeps ticking. Will be posting pictures soon!
 
I was experimenting with muffler modding and found cutting out that part was about equal to the inlet to the exhaust inlet area. I have read a few things saying to stay between 80 and 110% of exhaust inlet. However it has some faults, it can allow debris to enter the exhaust and then possibly the piston. It was at first a good idea, but i will need to rethink the mod. I am waiting on parts to reassemble when they get in ill post some pics.
 
Ms441 has a small following and I happen to be a member of said cult. The more I use her the more she becomes a great friend.

Great thread, keep us posted with pics, what kinda parts wear are you seeing in your higher hour saw?

Thanks

Jason


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ms441 has a small following and I happen to be a member of said cult. The more I use her the more she becomes a great friend.

Great thread, keep us posted with pics, what kinda parts wear are you seeing in your higher hour saw?

Thanks

Jason


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Add me to that club then, because I love mine! Always ran great and never left me stranded in a bind. Here she is with her little sister who's been since kicked out of the house lol.
cd308327d6f943e8e77cf8db48bcbb51.jpg
 
That 441 doesnt look like its had a hard life and you did a good job cleaning it up.
That what I said when I seen all the pieces clean. I hate when I see a guy with the jug off and a half inch of dirt around the gasket plate. That's gotta make life a little more difficult because you know your gonna knock some of that in the case.
 
You should have seen the parts before i degreased and power washed everything, a years worth of grime. I spend about 6 hours cleaning. Also, quick question about squish, currently with base gasket i have .064 roughly and without gasket about .042 roughly. With the base gasket, i have 185PSI compression with the .064 squish. From what i have been reading i should be down to around .024, correct?. Obviously, I have great compression but i don't know if i want any more if i were to delete the base gasket. Let me know what you guys think.
 
20160430_123916.jpg I got mine at a pawn shop for 150 dollars, it had been ran with filter vibrated off , tore down cleaned the internals and reassemble, spent about 60 dollars on parts not including the bar,
 
View attachment 543041 I got mine at a pawn shop for 150 dollars, it had been ran with filter vibrated off , tore down cleaned the internals and reassemble, spent about 60 dollars on parts not including the bar,
Nice, similar story with mine. I got mine off Ebay for 200$ and got few parts including the Baileys big bore kit and have been running that piston and cylinder for 4 years with no problems.
 
Mine is factory p/c so far it's holding on , the main thing was very poor fuel had been used and was half burnt gummed all over the cylinder
 
Got the parts ordered today should be in by the end of the week. I plan on doing crank seal test soon, i'Ill post some pics when i get there
 

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Looks like it didn't really need anything parts wise
 
Both fuel lines and impulse line are not cheap
The OP said in post #1 "it had a rough life but keeps on ticking".

Rough life equals. P&C, bearings, ect. Not just fuel lines and impulse lines. If that's all it needed, then it was well used and we'll taken care of. Which is good for the OP.
 
Yes, definitely well used, and definitely well taken care of. I was just doing a service and cleaning. The fuel line was 20$!!. total for everything was around 85$. I was expecting the connecting rod to have a lot of play but still feels tight and the bearing feel good to. I bought myself an early Christmas present, finally have a vacuum and compression tester. I think the flywheel crank seal is bad, causing the saw to have a lean situation coming down from full throttle. Ill post some pictures when everything gets in. Probably around Monday.
 
You should of checked for all those leaks before you removed the jug, that way you could have tested for those problems or since you have it broken down so thoughly just change them out since your able with everything removed. Great job so far keep the post updated.
 
Probably should have, but I can just put it back on and test. I need to find some way to plug both intake ports in the intake boot so I can test vacuume and pressure. Ill post some pics when i get the new tool in, says early next week!
 
The easiest way is to remount the carb and muffler with a rubber membrane in between the carb and the muffler and the cylinder and test through the spark plug hole.
 

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