Stihl tooth profile......

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Shmudda

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I buy all Stihl bars and chains as replacements, and sharpen all my own chains with an Oregon 511 grinder. I can't for the life of me figure out exactly what profile Stihl puts on their chains from the factory.

Does anyone have the angles and profile figured out that can share the information?

Thanks

Craig
 
Are you saying that the sharpening specs that come with the chain are different than the angles on a fresh new chain? I cant believe how well a new chain cuts, but always thought it was because of the slow degradation of the chain it was replacing.
 
I buy all Stihl bars and chains as replacements, and sharpen all my own chains with an Oregon 511 grinder. I can't for the life of me figure out exactly what profile Stihl puts on their chains from the factory.

Does anyone have the angles and profile figured out that can share the information?

Thanks

Craig

Chisel or semi?
 
Can you post a pic of a cutter you have ground? Here is a pic of a Stihl RS tooth that has been filed. It cuts as well as off the roll RS.


T1 by zweitakt250, on Flickr
 
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I buy all Stihl bars and chains as replacements, and sharpen all my own chains with an Oregon 511 grinder. I can't for the life of me figure out exactly what profile Stihl puts on their chains from the factory.

Does anyone have the angles and profile figured out that can share the information?

Thanks

Craig

My understanding is that Stihl sharpens the cutters individually(before assembly) and trying to duplicate the factory grind is impossible.
 
When I hand file (stihl guide plate) a new RS, RM, or PM chain they're always the same. The gullet of the cutter has a little burr in it. It looks as though Stihl's grinding wheel is really skinny. It takes four or five chattery strokes with the file to get that butt out. I may be wrong, but I feel that my chains perform better after the first filing.
 
When I hand file (stihl guide plate) a new RS, RM, or PM chain they're always the same. The gullet of the cutter has a little burr in it. It looks as though Stihl's grinding wheel is really skinny. It takes four or five chattery strokes with the file to get that butt out. I may be wrong, but I feel that my chains perform better after the first filing.

They do, if everything is done right. This applies to all round ground chain I know of - and a file is always better than a grinder, when you know what you are doing. :msp_biggrin:
 
My understanding is that Stihl sharpens the cutters individually(before assembly) and trying to duplicate the factory grind is impossible.

Joe,

That's exactly what I am thinking too. The profile that Stihl grinds at the factory doesn't seem it can be duplicated. I get them to cut and cut well, but never as good as the very first run.

Craig
 
Stihl 63 PM (3/8 Picco Micro)
Factory Profile

attachment.php
 
I think the up angle helps refinish the point on the cutter. I use 10 degrees on the grinder, and hand file occasionally.
 
I run the 63PS3 on the MS201. I setup the FG2 for a 30° top plate angle with a 5° upward cant. It'll take about 3-4 strokes on a new grind to get it round. It works ok for me.
 
Stihl actually calls for 0*, I use 10*.

when filling up at a 10* angle what setting do you have the top plate set at. when you change the up and down angle you affect the top plate angle. I am also using the stihl jig with great results :msp_thumbup:
 
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