Stripped plug

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ArboristSite Operative
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Well, it finally happened. :cry:

I screwed with a saw long enough to strip the plug threads on the cyl. Mmmm, humble pie, so tasty.

Is anybody in the Vancouver BC area set up to do a timesert? I'd rather not helicoil, and I'm not set up either way. I'll buy the timesert, but if I could skip the reamer and tap, that'd be nice.
 
Oh, oh, I see, running away then. You yellow :censored:! Come back here and take what's coming to you. I'll bite your legs off!
 
“We are no longer the knights who say ni! We are now the knights who say ekki-ekki-ekki-pitang-zoom-boing!”

Sorry. I could not resist. One of the best movies ever!

Good luck!
 
I've heard folks say Helicoils are fine if done properly. Mine must not have been done properly because it came out, so I bought a new cylinder. Good luck with yours, Joe.
 
I've had great luck with helicoils on farm machinery and automotive applications. If they are done right, I've never had one fail. The local auto shop uses them all the time on Ford heads that tend to strip out the spark plug holes.
 
I haven't had much luck with the heli coils eather so for me I would have to say that NONE SHALL PASS or try to chop the largest tree in the forest down with a HERRING
:hmm3grin2orange:
 
<table><tr><td>:yoyo:</td><td valign="top">So umm...<br>python humour aside,<br>no takers on the timesert?</td><td valign="top">:monkey:</td></tr></table>
 
<table><tr><td>:yoyo:</td><td valign="top">So umm...<br>python humour aside,<br>no takers on the timesert?</td><td valign="top">:monkey:</td></tr></table>

Im a million miles away, but i would be glad to help.
 
If you do try to repair or rethread the plug hole make sure you do a pressure test. I bought a blown up 026 and after doing a press./vac test i discovered that the threads for the plug were leaking pretty bad which is why i'm guessing it went kablooee!
 
Trouble with the saws is that they are short reach plugs that measures 8mm on the nose, only 7mm of that is treaded at 1.25mm pitch you only get 5 full treads assuming all the threads are good in the head. Adding an insert you lose about half a thread on each end leaving only 4 threads to hold.

To get an insert to work it must be tapped straight if not it's going to leak and likely better chance it will pull out.

Insert is worth a shot, kind of a whats there to loose situation.

If the insert fails I have had some success welding in the plug hole and redoing the seat but it is a bit of work. The cylider needs to be jigged up perfectly in line and the hole machiened out with a taper, fit with an aluminium backer and welded in. Then redrill a pilot hole, retap and cut a new plug seat.
 
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To get an insert to work it must be tapped straight if not it's going to leak and likely better chance it will pull out.

With a thread insert (Helicoil is just a brand name)an oversize tap drill and STI tap are used.If done correctly the insert should work just fine.

Your correct,the hole needs to be very straight to the existing hole.Make sure the drill does not drill oversize and use a minimum chamfer on the hole so the plug gasket will seal.

Best not to attempt to use a hand drill.
 
You are right, not a hand drill job.

I go at it by clamping the jug into mill table level it up with digital angle finder indexed off the plug seat, then run drill and tap in a chuck on the mill, and if there is a need to recut the seat do it at the same time without unclamping the cylinder. That way everything is dead straight.
 
To bad you can't use something like JB weld and put a release agent on the plug.

Like when bedding barreled action to a gun stock.

Not if I cut for a living but in my case if I didn't think I could get it
done right and last resort. I mite try JB'ing a new spark plug in cylinder.
JB may not be what to use. May be all kinds of reasons not to do this
that I'm not thinking of, I can have some hair brain..........\



TT
 
JB weld has an a tensil strength of 3,900psi in ideal conditions and less at a few hundred degrees F. Aluminium issomewhere about 30,000 psi. So basically JB is only about 1/10th the strength.

I have seen some attempts to repair spark plug holes with JB weld, none of them ever held.
 
JB weld has an a tensil strength of 3,900psi in ideal conditions and less at a few hundred degrees F. Aluminium issomewhere about 30,000 psi. So basically JB is only about 1/10th the strength.

I have seen some attempts to repair spark plug holes with JB weld, none of them ever held.


See, I knew you would know why or why not.

Is their anything else you could use in a last ditch effort?....I may need to know some day




TT
 
As noted, there are spark plug hole repair kits available at most automotive parts places. The typical kit has three insterts supplies with it, one of which is 3/8" reach.

Search a little bit, this has been discuss recently with photo's of the kit and inserts shown.

Mark
 
Trouble with the saws is that they are short reach plugs that measures 8mm on the nose, only 7mm of that is treaded at 1.25mm pitch you only get 5 full treads assuming all the threads are good in the head. Adding an insert you lose about half a thread on each end leaving only 4 threads to hold.

To get an insert to work it must be tapped straight if not it's going to leak and likely better chance it will pull out.

Insert is worth a shot, kind of a whats there to loose situation.

If the insert fails I have had some success welding in the plug hole and redoing the seat but it is a bit of work. The cylider needs to be jigged up perfectly in line and the hole machiened out with a taper, fit with an aluminium backer and welded in. Then redrill a pilot hole, retap and cut a new plug seat.

VWs use a short reach plug also. I'm talking about the air cooled ones. Insert is still working as far as I know.
 

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