Stripped threads & one hole cracked 066 crankcase @ starter

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RiverRat2

RiverRat2

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Has anybody had any luck repairing them??????

The Bottom Hole toward the rear handle on the starter side is cracked

The Bottom Hole toward the front is barley stripped
 
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Freakingstang

Freakingstang

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A helicoil might fix the stipped one. Don't know what to tell you about the cracked one. Lakeside might have a better suggestion, but if all else fails, JB weld works ok.
 
RiverRat2

RiverRat2

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Thanks for the suggestion

Freakingstang said:
A helicoil might fix the stipped one. Don't know what to tell you about the cracked one. Lakeside might have a better suggestion, but if all else fails, JB weld works ok.
Do they make a Metric helicoil that small I think it is 5M, It would work on the front one if I can find a helicoil, and on the one that is cracked at the rear I could try jbweld and back it up with a nut, I Just checked the crank case yestyerday and she is tight nor pressure or vacuum leaks,well within spec. I pulled the muffler and the piston and rings looked good it feels like it has a ton of compression so i thought I would check to see what the compession actually was thats when I noticed the problems :confused: sure would like to be able to salvage it
 
CaseyForrest

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Go get yourself some of these bad boys.....

attachment.php


I dont remember what they are called, I think Madsens sells them.

Real easy, drill out the old thread with the proper size drill bit of the repair you are using, take a screw and back it with a nut and thread the repair in. Locks in solid, and I have used about 7 of them on saws with no issues afterwards.
 
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CaseyForrest

CaseyForrest

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Yes, they are self tapping. If the bolt hole you are repairing does not go all the way through, the holes in the repair give the filings from the tapping somewhere to go.

If you have never drilled Mag before, hold on tight to the drill, dont let it get away from you and whatever you do, drill it square.

Madsens site is down right now, if I find them Ill post a link. Or if you arent in a hurry, I can call me dealer tomorrow and ask him what they are called and post it here.
 
RiverRat2

RiverRat2

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I'm in no rush,,,,,, other than wanting to hear this saw run and see what she will do,,,, I do have one 066 Mag thats running so Im not in a bind. Both holes go all the way through w except the front one may be close for fitting a nut behind,,, Thanks again.,,,
 
Lakeside53

Lakeside53

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Yep.. and 4mm.... you get a tap, reamer, thread setter and drill, plus some inserts in the starter kit. Always buy more inserts... Amazing how fast they go!

and a lot more sizes and even Stainless steel inserts..

http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html

I've never had a time-sert fail to pull pull torque, and repeatedly after disassembly multiple times.
 
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046

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thanks... timeserts look very functional.

for holes that don't have enough room for an insert. I'll carefully measure and find next large sized fastener. usually this will be SAE thread size instead of metric and vise versa.

then drill and tap out hole to next larger size, then use new fastener. drawback is you now have an odd sized fastener permanently. much better to use an insert like timesert, but if you don't have the room. here's another option.

I've threaded case studs before, where half stud is SAE and other half is metric.
 
RiverRat2

RiverRat2

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Thanks Andy I went to their website

Lakeside53 said:
The best product on the planet for this type of repair is a "time sert". Madsens sells them... Synchronized thread thin wall steel inserts. Buy the 5mm kit... They make Helicoil's look like junk (which they are for 5mm threads..). I won't use anything else..


http://www.timesert.com/


They offer the 5m kit in either 7.6mm and 10mm im thinkin the 10mm would be deeper and better, also in carbon or stainless steel which ones do you use :chainsaw:
 
Lakeside53

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RiverRat2 said:
They offer the 5m kit in either 7.6mm and 10mm im thinkin the 10mm would be deeper and better, also in carbon or stainless steel which ones do you use :chainsaw:


I just use use carbon steel - the SS wasn't available when I got my sets and I doubt it's any better for chainsaws appications. Not sure what length I use (probably the 7.6mm)... they are "through hole" so it's not as critical as you may think so long as you have enough thread to hold. Maybe on Cylinder base screews you'd use the longer inserts, maybe. The bigger issue is NOT to get an insert too long for the base material as it needs to lock on the bottom external threads.
 
RiverRat2

RiverRat2

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Thanks again Andy

Lakeside53 said:
I just use use carbon steel - the SS wasn't available when I got my sets and I doubt it's any better for chainsaws appications. Not sure what length I use (probably the 7.6mm)... they are "through hole" so it's not as critical as you may think so long as you have enough thread to hold. Maybe on Cylinder base screews you'd use the longer inserts, maybe. The bigger issue is NOT to get an insert too long for the base material as it needs to lock on the bottom external threads.

I wll give the 7.6mm in carbon steel a try I feel like they should work fine for the starter side of the crankcase,,,, whad do you use the 4m & 6m ones on I was wondering if I should get some of those too
 
RiverRat2

RiverRat2

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Yep u R right

I'm gonna weld up the crack that is not an issue,,,, the treads in that hole are good but after I weld it I will run the correct 5m tap and clean the threads and if they dont work I will put a thread-sert in it too Or ican put a longer screw and back it up with a ny-lok nut just like is on the felling dogs,,,
 

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