Stump critique
- Thread starter redoakneck
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This was a big ash, dead, leaning about 15 degrees in the direction I wanted it to fall.
I used a small face cut, did a plunge cut thru the center of the hinge out the back, trying to stay perpendicular to the tree.
I know it looks like a SLOPING BACK CUT, but the tree was leaning about that much.
Went over pretty quickly, even with 5-6" thick hinge wood
I wanted to save that little oak tree, ash tree launched itself off the stump and missed the oak by about an inch.
I used a small face cut, did a plunge cut thru the center of the hinge out the back, trying to stay perpendicular to the tree.
I know it looks like a SLOPING BACK CUT, but the tree was leaning about that much.
Went over pretty quickly, even with 5-6" thick hinge wood
I wanted to save that little oak tree, ash tree launched itself off the stump and missed the oak by about an inch.
It looks like you did ok- instead of boring the center of the face I would of gone with an open face and made it a little deeper- on leaners, some prefer to bore the back cut behind the hinge wood.
I need to go back and take better pics, hard to see from what I posted.
Looks fine to me. Why the bore cut in the center?
Leaning pretty much, didn't want it to Barber chair. Thought about boring in from back of the hinge and making the back cut the opposite way, had RM chain so didn't bore real well
Old Longhair
Crazy 'Ol Foole
It worked, so it wasn't wrong.
Others will have their opinions, as do I. Given the lean, I might have opted for a Coos Bay cut.
Others will have their opinions, as do I. Given the lean, I might have opted for a Coos Bay cut.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
Same here ,i like the coos triangle ,it saves from too much fiberpull and breaking the log ,when i am milling wood if they crack like that i lose boards or feet off them .with the coos set up ,do not have to bore the back cut ,just cut in like a reg back cut ,if just cutting firewood ,that is not so important i guess .
Big_Wood
westcoast dweller
He's talking about boring in the back cut and leaving a strap on the back for the last cut. Removes the guts to ridden barber chair potential. Just remember to cut the strap below the bored back cut. I know you know what happens when you do it above LOL
I bore most leaners that are within bar length. I only use the full core strap when tree's get bigger then bar length. 15 degrees is nothing though. He was fine with what he did. I would have got that back cut up a bit higher though. It's down and that's all that matters.
CapitaineHaddoc
European Westcoaster
Personally, the only think I don't like here is the height of the back cut. I like the back cut a little higher than the front cut in this kind of wood, especially with a good hinge like you did.
Otherwise, nice work!
Otherwise, nice work!
Thanks everyone, I agree with all the comments. Sometimes someone sees something I am not aware of and helps me learn how to do it differently and safer.
Backcut should have been 2" higher for sure. I had 1 leaner Barber chair on me several years ago before I came here to learn.
I'll never forget that tree and that day, was a lucky SOB and didn't realize it until later.
Backcut should have been 2" higher for sure. I had 1 leaner Barber chair on me several years ago before I came here to learn.
I'll never forget that tree and that day, was a lucky SOB and didn't realize it until later.
Deets066
Firewood hack
The small face is probably why it launched, I like a more open face on leaners. I have bored through the face and out the back as you did and have had no problems. Like this big oak
marsingbob
ArboristSite Lurker
Help a novice with some questions. I understand the issues of the height of the back cut and depth of face cut. What are the advantages of boring the start of the back cut thru the face cut rather than parallel with it? Why cut the strap below the back cut rather than above?
No real advantage boring thru the face or starting from the side at the back of the hinge that I know of.
As far as cutting the strap lower than back cut, if you go higher it will launch yer saw when it breaks free, saw falls, you run tree falls on saw. There is a great video of this, somewhere??
I cut the face really small so it would launch past that little oak tree. I was surprised it cleared it.
Trying to get the dead ash out without destroying a beautiful woods, the ash dying around here is sickening.
Red and white oak, walnut, maple are the trees we are trying to save. A lot of sycamore too, just not much use for it.
Trying to get the dead ash out without destroying a beautiful woods, the ash dying around here is sickening.
Red and white oak, walnut, maple are the trees we are trying to save. A lot of sycamore too, just not much use for it.
Might get less fiber pull with a plunged back cut, comes a point where hinge size and strength is the price of a controlled fall at the expense of fiber pull.
This is a firewood tree, I can afford a few fibers if it keeps me from putting the tree in the creek, 15 ft to the left in the pictures( can't see it because underbrush), but it is 25 ft down a steep hill, I laid the tree on the trail where removal is easiest.
This is a firewood tree, I can afford a few fibers if it keeps me from putting the tree in the creek, 15 ft to the left in the pictures( can't see it because underbrush), but it is 25 ft down a steep hill, I laid the tree on the trail where removal is easiest.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
Did you see the crack off the hinge ? ,the tree did start to chair some ,i have seen some guys bore into the face and gut the center ,leaving 2 hinges on outer edge ,this is more advanced falling ,but save from ripping the guts out of the butt log or cracking it .
Definitive Dave
wanna-be saw racer, saw hoarder, parts whore
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