Stupid me!!

[weenieroaster]

Thanks Echoman.

 

[dgfitz]

Even if the tooth didn't appear blue from heat, it can still be hard on the surface.

Bingo!! I ruined a few chains not paying attention to the fact that what
I did not see was as important as what I thought. You really have to be careful in your setup to just LIGHTLY touch the surface area with a grinder
and not to over do it. Dressing the stone on a regular basis is also very
important to a clean sharp, in fact I check the dress every chain I mount,
not always needed to dress up, but I catch it when it does and not after I
have wasted my time and ruined my chain. Like some one else suggested,
the Perf's that Baily's sell are the best hand files.

 

[Patrick62]

All of the above!

The first lesson as a grinder operator is to learn what not to do!
I have been grinding my own chains for several years now, and have screwed it up in a variety of ways!

Now, I am getting better, and with care they cut good, and stay sharp.

As a bonus folks are bringing me some sharpening! Nobody has come back complaining that my sharpening had any issues.... (yet).

It does take time to do it right, and practice helps bunches.

-Pat

 

[turnkey4099]

Sending off two chains to Fish tomorrow - the one I posted about plus the only one of the 5 I haven't tired, i.e., unused just as it came out of that shop.

I have one of the $39 HF grinders - POS, Have to play around with a mic and change the tooth stop to get the same length of tooth on both sides and it does a really poor job of sharpening (that may be my fault but I haven't gotten a decent job from day one). All I use it for now is the correct the tooth lenght after I have handsharped for 3 or 4 times and then touch it up by hand.

Harry K

 

[Red Amor]

Gday Echoman
Red here
I have a cheap grinder and have only sharpened about eight times with it
so far all is good
I see what your saying about blueing and curling
Its not as bad on the side of the chain where I cutting outside in with stone rotation but when you have to cut inside out as once you've rotated to the other side angle I tend to see a little more burring of the gullet or hook and the top plate
I did try to rum the grinder backwards but it didn't seem to like it much so didn't push the issue as I didn't want to blow the motor

I sharpen at 25 and 55 degrees for the most part they chains cut well and hold edge as good as any anyone else has done for me
I don't like seeing blueing at all but get some
sometimes
also how would a 20 degrees top plate angle go in dry hard wood would it slow the cut down n load to saw ?
I wondered also about cooling with either air or milling oil/water or just water
or do you think Im being anal and just to heavy handed with the feed
thankyou mate yeah

 

[machinisttx]

Gday Echoman
Red here
I have a cheap grinder and have only sharpened about eight times with it
so far all is good
I see what your saying about blueing and curling
Its not as bad on the side of the chain where I cutting outside in with stone rotation but when you have to cut inside out as once you've rotated to the other side angle I tend to see a little more burring of the gullet or hook and the top plate
I did try to rum the grinder backwards but it didn't seem to like it much so didn't push the issue as I didn't want to blow the motor

I sharpen at 25 and 55 degrees for the most part they chains cut well and hold edge as good as any anyone else has done for me
I don't like seeing blueing at all but get some
sometimes
also how would a 20 degrees top plate angle go in dry hard wood would it slow the cut down n load to saw ?
I wondered also about cooling with either air or milling oil/water or just water
or do you think Im being anal and just to heavy handed with the feed
thankyou mate yeah

I can't help you with the angles or the grinder, but....

Grinding wheels come in a bunch of variations, enough to fill a book or two. The things that you're going to be most concerned with is the hardness and grit, assuming the wheel is constructed of the proper abrasive. A hard wheel won't break down as quickly as a soft one, so you will maintain the surface profile longer. That's a double edged sword though, since new abrasive isn't being exposed to the workpiece. Once the existing surface is loaded or dull, you'll generate a lot more heat while removing less material. Basically, you need to dress the wheel more frequently to keep clean, sharp abrasive exposed. This will help keep the heat down quite a bit, as will taking lighter cuts.

As far as cooling with air/water/oil, yes, it is possible. That said, depending on the bonding type of the wheel, it might not be a good idea to cool with a liquid. I would strongly suggest that if you choose a liquid coolant that you make sure the wheel is rated for it. Also, unless you like really nasty messes, I wouldn't use cutting oil. A mist type coolant would be my preference since flood coolant isn't really feasible.

Here's a bit of reading, although it's not nearly complete. http://www.kprixabrasives.com/pdf/general_catalog_en.pdf

 

[Red Amor]

Weeeel that's all a bit bizzy yeah twould appear there a lot more to avin a bit of a grind than meets the eye

thank you very much for the reply and the link
Ill ave a read n think on it sumore he he
thanks again