Surface roots on drake elm

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Ropensaddle - the only root that was above surface level (as related to this last pic) was the smaller one on the left that is circling right. You can almost see how much was exposed based on the coloration of the root itself (dryer looking brown, versus wetter looking). The rest were below the soil, but not that far down below, to be honest. It was the left root - and all the tiny surface roots that got me to wondering if something else was going on. However, I do have to admit, I don't believe I saw too much of a trunk flare before digging the soil out that exposed the girdling roots. If you go back to my original posted pics, you can see what I mean.

I would have to dig even deeper to determine what is going on with the two larger circling roots, but from what I can tell the 'top' one according to the pic angle does extend outward. The other I am not so sure about. I just haven't gone far down enough to identify exactly where they started from, nor where the second root goes. It seems to me that is a problem anyway, because - somewhat depending on where they both originate from - they may both have to go, as the top one seems to be secondary to the other one. That is what is confounding me so much about this.

I am contacting arborists in the area to come take a look at this. It seems like such a mess, that I think I need someone with the right tools and education to determine what all can be cut away. The problem is I've contacted 3 so far, and only one has even bothered to respond. Guess I will have to look for more. As much as I would like to resolve this one my own, I don't think I have the proper equipment to do so.
Yeah It looks like it was planted a little deep to me.Jeff really is right , by the time you get arborist to access and repair that tree a new one if planted right would be growing and have better health etc. If I was going to attempt fixing I would chisel off those girdler's close but not into the stem they originate from then clip them where they go back into the soil prune any small circling also and leave the base exposed. The problem is, the stress will temporarily slow it's growth and you will likely have more circle later. No doubt the tree can be mitigated to survive but many times a healthy well planted one will out perform one that is not!
 
That would be my final option. You have no idea how long it took to find a decent sized, good looking, healthy (or, so I thought) drake elm down here. I think hiring an arborist to assess the problem and attempt to resolve has got to be cheaper - both financially and time-wise - than getting the current tree removed and replaced. That is unless, I want to buy a 'stick' from Lowe's or our largest local nursery, Lukas. Most of the nurseries around this area that had a little bigger-sized drake elms had let them grow into the ground, which then would have had to be excavated out of the ground and replanted - hoping the shock didn't kill them. Talk about not cheap.

According to all my research, the problem with this tree's roots are not insurmountable. If all else fails, then the tree will come down - but not before then.

Why do you say the roots will continue to encircle the tree once the initial girdled ones are removed? It was my understanding that girdling is usually the result of container issues (e.g. growing too long in one container, not being maintained correctly while in a container).
 
UPDATE: Well, I found 6 arborists, with verifiable certifications and reputable histories, and contacted all of them. Sad to say, but pretty much expected, only 2 have bothered to respond. Both arborists said almost the same thing about removing the girdling roots, and "reducing" some of the tree limbs. One was more drastic about the reduction than the other; but the big difference between the two: One was willing to do both at the same time for about $50; the other said NOT to do both at the same time, but wait about 3 months in between girdling and reduction, and he wanted $100 for each treatment. His reduction recommendation was actually the less drastic one.

I thought $50 sounded a little on the low side and $200 seems a little high. But, more to the point: is it advisable to wait a few months after cutting the girdled roots before doing the limb reduction? Thanks.
 
UPDATE 2 - I went ahead and cut some of the roots based on what the arborists said should be cut. Pics (before & after, as best I could). Roughly marked with red where they were cut. The one with the black box just shows you the location of the big girdled root in comparison to other cut roots. Hope that make sense.

I guess the rest of the roots are OK. See any others? I realize the pics are not the best and certainly are hard to compare. Sorry.

And, even though I cut them, I still want to know your opinion about whether I need to wait a few months to 'reduce' the limbs. (I will be reading up on 'reduction' in the meantime.)
 

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