A dutchman as i would recommend for this would be in 1 side of face. This would close the push-from side early; while the pull-to side is still open. Once loaded with force/ breathing / moving an open face or side of face pulls; a closed face or side pushes. So splitting the control of the face to 1 side open/pull and other side closed/ push gives specialized/ tailored control rather than just generic both sides open or both sides closed. i set these controls (open/closed commands on how to use force) by how i want to steer and/or the balance of the load/lean. With just generic both sides open equally on sidelean or while trying to keep horizontal up (where we calculate lean as down if trying to move sideways); the lean side of hinge does very little except to keep load from twisting to opposite side. The opposite side of face does all the work with pull force. With this concept of
splitting the control of the face; so that lean side pushes as off side pulls; both sides of the face work for you! This also helps with less elastic wood in off side; that gives less pull; if the lean side is solid enough to give push. Like in dead/ but not rotted, more brittle or frozen wood etc.
A kerf in one side of the face achieves this; with a very early close on that side; and will not fall out of a non-horizontal bottom cut like a rock or block will. If you wish not so early a close; don't go as deep and/ or double kerf. This is also good for crane jobs when picking upwards from horizontal; where the rock or block may fall out or back deeper into the cut allowing no movement. The dutch here allows similar load balancing and/or serving to boom.
A lot of times i kerf the bottom of a face who's gun is to the side. So that the top of face pulls up, as the bottom of face pushes up.
i try long hinging of open face mostly with this. i think of a hinge as another rigging point that is dispensable to use along with the rope rigging point. Like if you had a short piece of line, and butt hitched it to load, and on the other side of the facecut as support. Then pivot limb around until hitchpoint of main rig line is under it's support point; then cut the short/ butt hitched line free (dispensible part of that rig).
For most positive steering from main rig line; i try to get full support tension before tearoff of hinge. First i try to get as much slack out of line by ground control pulling linear on line. Then as they continue; i pull perpendicular on line part above load, to enable a leveraged sweating of more purchase from the line. Then, on the backcut; i'll kinda lay some of the weight of the limb down into the line (tightening it more) at first by cutting down/ like to fake the direction i'm going to be down. Then, as it starts to breathe/ move; i'll cut across; into the pull of this tightened line.
You have to remember as the load moves nearer the support point of the line, the line slackens. So, i try to pretighten and then press load down some, to further pre-tighten the line before tearoff. Sometimes to go left i even 'fake' right some, to get an even more intensive line tension; by moving away from the support point, rather than closer initially so line tightens; then pulls load back across tot he intended direction as in
Rock around the Clock.
The farther out the line hitchpoint on the limb is from the pivot of the hinge, the more leveraged tightening this gives. Though i keep the softer/ green end heavy; these are not butt tie strategies.
More intense force for turn can be gotten from giving
this type of turn on load. One of my first ever drawings from the original ISA board that folded some years ago.
but what I am still unsure of is this: If you notch it, then place a rock in the left side of the notch so that it closes first, will the spar swing left or right? My vote is left.
