I grew up in the Flint area. Clio till age 14 and aftre that Flushing.
If I where going to GMI I would packing steel for the care ride into Flint
If I where going to GMI I would packing steel for the care ride into Flint
synthetic oil
- Thread starter mrniceguy
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BTW GMI is like the prommmised land of chicks compared to Michigan Tech....They out to give freshman a kidney belt for hefting those snowcows.
SIRCHOPALOT
ArboristSite Operative
I believe (as a buckeye) that most of michigan has that problem!
bluegoose
ArboristSite Lurker
Not being an expert with chainsaw engines, my concern here is NOT following the manufacturer's recommended oil weights, types, etc. Should I really be going 25:1 synthetic in a 30 year old saw, when its owner's manual prescribes non-synthetic 40:1 mix (as an example). Of course an argument could be made that all oils are "synthetic" in theory. I remain open-minded to new ideas/suggestions, but major deviation concerns me.
I often work on older tractor and in many of those machines, synthetic oils do produce unwanted side effects. Some tractor clutches are dependent on a certain amount of internal friction to properly operate and the structure of synthetic oil is such that it eliminates this needed friction - in certain cases. Of course, tractors aren't saws and I have seen that some newer small engines are recommended for use with synthetic oil.
You guys have to quit dissin' Flint like that. It's a beautiful, wondrous city - uhhhh, did I say that? I spent a few years down there and had the opportunity to see a few people that met with untimely ends. Like Detroit, Flint continues to endlessly struggle with its "comeback."
I often work on older tractor and in many of those machines, synthetic oils do produce unwanted side effects. Some tractor clutches are dependent on a certain amount of internal friction to properly operate and the structure of synthetic oil is such that it eliminates this needed friction - in certain cases. Of course, tractors aren't saws and I have seen that some newer small engines are recommended for use with synthetic oil.
You guys have to quit dissin' Flint like that. It's a beautiful, wondrous city - uhhhh, did I say that? I spent a few years down there and had the opportunity to see a few people that met with untimely ends. Like Detroit, Flint continues to endlessly struggle with its "comeback."
Sirchopalot, what is the manufactures recommended mix ratio for the Redline oil you are using? My uncle has been using Optimol at their 100-1 mix in his Stihl 024 for years and has had excellent results with it. I recently serviced his saw for him and found a problem that might be oil related or not, the gas in the tank had a high amount of condensation in it. I was thinking that some of the high-ratio mix synthetics might have a problem with drawing moisture. My Stihl dealer says he has seen bearings rust from sitting awhile because there is no corrosion protection, maybe there is just so little oil in a 100-1 mix to be effective in this respect.
This might also be related to the fact that my uncle has left his chainsaw outside in the rain all year.
This might also be related to the fact that my uncle has left his chainsaw outside in the rain all year.
bluegoose: Don't use 25:1 in a saw, it will make the plug and muffler look like someone pooped on them. Stick with around 50:1 and you will be set with the mixture. As for not enough friction, I can honestly and safely say you won't have that problem with your chainsaw.
As for rust, If you want to keep an engine from rusting just take a little 10:1 mix and with the sparkplug disconnected pull the cord a few times. Before you use it again just take the plug out, clean it up, and put 50:1 back in.
As for rust, If you want to keep an engine from rusting just take a little 10:1 mix and with the sparkplug disconnected pull the cord a few times. Before you use it again just take the plug out, clean it up, and put 50:1 back in.
Synthetic oil should not be used in equipment manufactured prior to I believe 1970, the manufacturing tolerances were far looser back then nor should 50:1 dino mixes. You should be using something like 16:1 or 25:1 on dino mixes on equipment of yesteryears.
A synthetic will work fine in any two cycle. Use a 32:1 ratio in all of them regardless of age and you will not run into any problems.
mrniceguy said:
i have used synthetic oil for probably 10 years and my chainsaw has always ran better with it. I believe it is becuase of the thickness diffrence when it is cold and when it is hot outside.
I think it makes total sense.
Mange
Addicted to ArboristSite
You had a chainsaw at 7 years old?!056 kid said:
Now where do I find that ignore button?
SIRCHOPALOT
ArboristSite Operative
Pioneer said:Sirchopalot, what is the manufactures recommended mix ratio for the Redline oil you are using? My uncle has been using Optimol at their 100-1 mix in his Stihl 024 for years and has had excellent results with it. I recently serviced his saw for him and found a problem that might be oil related or not, the gas in the tank had a high amount of condensation in it. I was thinking that some of the high-ratio mix synthetics might have a problem with drawing moisture. My Stihl dealer says he has seen bearings rust from sitting awhile because there is no corrosion protection, maybe there is just so little oil in a 100-1 mix to be effective in this respect.
This might also be related to the fact that my uncle has left his chainsaw outside in the rain all year.
as far as I know there is not a recommended ratio. in my TZ-250 GP bike motor I ran it at 20/1. then when I felt comfortable I ran it at 28/1. I was always in the revlimiter, which I think was at 14,600 rpm. and I never lost a rod bearing. ran a bunch of races too. not bad for a 250cc motor that made 80+ hp. never had a problem with corrosion, but it was always mixed with race gas. with the 125cc stuff we run it at 28/1 or 32/1 depending on the setup and what kind of racing it is. I can tell you this, I have run synthetic 2-stroke oils at 20/1 or even 16/1 for over ten years and I have never fouled a plug. so you should be safe at 32/1.
Chopwood
ArboristSite Guru
The truth, and a slip of his own typing fingers have finally ratted this biathc from his proverbial hole. Get out of here loser! And just think, you were the one that told ME to fek off!056 kid said:
Ditto SIRCHOPILOT
I've run a variety of Synthetics since they were available. Brands like Klotz, Bel-Ray, Golden Spectro, and now Mobil One.
I ran the small bore bikes (For me that was 80cc, 100cc, and 125cc MX bikes) at 32:1. I ran the 250's and open bikes at 38:1 (Average). There was a time when I ran the first generation Bel-Ray at 45:1 as it did get gummy in the power valves & exaust. The new H1-R can be run at 32:1. Much cleaner burning oil than then MC1. The Mobil One seems to burn clean as well at 32:1.
All I can do is report what has worked for me for the last 25-30 years.
This is a topic that seems to run forever.....
I've run a variety of Synthetics since they were available. Brands like Klotz, Bel-Ray, Golden Spectro, and now Mobil One.
I ran the small bore bikes (For me that was 80cc, 100cc, and 125cc MX bikes) at 32:1. I ran the 250's and open bikes at 38:1 (Average). There was a time when I ran the first generation Bel-Ray at 45:1 as it did get gummy in the power valves & exaust. The new H1-R can be run at 32:1. Much cleaner burning oil than then MC1. The Mobil One seems to burn clean as well at 32:1.
All I can do is report what has worked for me for the last 25-30 years.
This is a topic that seems to run forever.....
Last edited:
Moose44
ArboristSite Lurker
"Racing gas"
Here in Western Colorado all the fallers I know use 'aviation' gas. 100 octane leaded gas with no additives. It does not go bad with storage .. have left it in a saw for 5 or 6 months with no gunk left in carb,,, started right up. I have used it in all my saws for 16 years. And have used it with Redline 2 stroke racing oil for 10 years mixed 40 to 1. (I now mix it 32 to one on Ken Dunn's recommendation, which I accept without hesitation). The gas costs about $3.50 a gallon and can be purchased at most local small airports or gas wholesalers. The Redline oil has been excellent. Never had a problem.
DarioMO said:
Here in Western Colorado all the fallers I know use 'aviation' gas. 100 octane leaded gas with no additives. It does not go bad with storage .. have left it in a saw for 5 or 6 months with no gunk left in carb,,, started right up. I have used it in all my saws for 16 years. And have used it with Redline 2 stroke racing oil for 10 years mixed 40 to 1. (I now mix it 32 to one on Ken Dunn's recommendation, which I accept without hesitation). The gas costs about $3.50 a gallon and can be purchased at most local small airports or gas wholesalers. The Redline oil has been excellent. Never had a problem.
jimbo1490
ArboristSite Guru
Just ran avgas in my 3 saws for the first time ever this week. It was the 100 octane (green) variety rather than the usual 100LL (blue). (One cannot be choosy about the variety of free fuel ) All ran fine. Easy starts. I'm using Echo synthetic @ 40:1. Got about 20 gallons so I filled up all my outdoor power stuff, most of which won't be used again till about April or May.
Green avgas and occasionally purple show up in the wings of airplanes that fly in from the islands or South America, especially those with big radial engines. Extra octane above what is needed to prevent detonation should make little or no difference in operation.
Jimbo
) All ran fine. Easy starts. I'm using Echo synthetic @ 40:1. Got about 20 gallons so I filled up all my outdoor power stuff, most of which won't be used again till about April or May.Green avgas and occasionally purple show up in the wings of airplanes that fly in from the islands or South America, especially those with big radial engines. Extra octane above what is needed to prevent detonation should make little or no difference in operation.
Jimbo
