This is just for fun, I spent a few minutes on a tooth taking it up to 10,000 grit, just to see if it was possible. It was for proof of concept rather than with the intention of a perfect edge, finish and angle geometry.
I can do a lot better and intend to when I do the chain proper, but thought I’d start a thread documenting the process / results.
it may be a total waste of time and not show noticeable improvements in the wood, alternatively it could be great.
Of course this wouldn’t be realistic to do for a fire wood saw, it’s too labour intensive, but for a fun experiment I’ll give it a go - I’ll test it in soft wood initially, I expect that to be where the differences will be most notable.
it’s going to take some time to do but as and when I’m in the mood I’ll do a tooth at a tine
As a point of reference you can compare the gullet of the tooth to the same area by the raker
Quick video of a filed tooth vs this tooth, it’s sharp kind of, but with time and care it will be far far sharper. It could very well be the burr on a normal filed tooth that’s actually causing it to rip and catch. I’ll test that too.
I can do a lot better and intend to when I do the chain proper, but thought I’d start a thread documenting the process / results.
it may be a total waste of time and not show noticeable improvements in the wood, alternatively it could be great.
Of course this wouldn’t be realistic to do for a fire wood saw, it’s too labour intensive, but for a fun experiment I’ll give it a go - I’ll test it in soft wood initially, I expect that to be where the differences will be most notable.
it’s going to take some time to do but as and when I’m in the mood I’ll do a tooth at a tine
As a point of reference you can compare the gullet of the tooth to the same area by the raker
Quick video of a filed tooth vs this tooth, it’s sharp kind of, but with time and care it will be far far sharper. It could very well be the burr on a normal filed tooth that’s actually causing it to rip and catch. I’ll test that too.