Thoughts on a 24" Bar On A Ported 361

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gsrsol84mm

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A Ported 361 From Wicked Work Saws. Currently has a 20" bar. Thinking of a Lightweight 24" Bar with 3/8 .050.
Just looking for a little extra reach when working on the ground and saving the back.
Looking at a 24" TsuMura Light weight bar unless there is a better option. Would like to keep to 3/8 .050.

Thanks
 
If you're just wanting it for reach and not to bury it in oak, I'd say it would be fine. If I wanted to use the full capacity on hardwood, I would probably want to run skip chain.
 
If the Porter did it right, you can bury it in Oak all you want & it’ll do it.

e9c931588418aaf7b83f04a8f8bd27bf.jpg


The one that did that one did his part.
 
I have run a Stihl 84dl bar on an 036Pro for years and frequently on a 362. Both do fine with it (believe it is a 25” bar). I have a WWS361 that will eat both their lunches with a 20” (72dl) bar. I assume it would as well with a 24” bar, but have never run it with the longer bar.

Ron
 
Running a 84dl (24”) Tsumura Bar on my 361. I do it for reach, and it cuts fine by me. Turn the Oiler up and you are good.
 
Appreciate the replies, Thank You

I run the Stihl 24"/25" on my MS360 Pro. As long as the chain is sharp, it does fine for me. Just don't get file happy on the rakers. I just wish mine was a "light" bar.

In fact, anyone want to trade a 20" ES Light, for the 25" ES ? My bar is like new, hardly has a mark on it.

20180519_111931-1612x1209.jpg
 
I don't know how tall you are, but if you're just going for reach, I'd go for a 28" light bar. Personally I think a 24" is the worst of both worlds. It's heavy, with a lot of weight far from the operator and I can't reach the ground with the tip without bending over. A 28" is a little heavier, but I can keep a wide stance, bend my knees a little and the tip is on the ground. I can keep the power head and my elbows close to my body which for me is less fatiguing. For limbing I like a 16" bar on a lightweight saw, but if I've got a 28" bar for felling I actually find it pretty doable.
 
Run 24" bars on 362, 360, 361, 036 and a couple 460s. No trouble.

Used to run 18" bars, tried a longer bar and really like it. For me it's about the perfect length, balance and weight.

No idea on a light weight, I just run the Oregon or Still bars. The Oregon vars are about $60 on Amazon. (Just bought 2 last week actually)
 
If you're just after a little more reach to save your back then you can go up to 32" on a good ported 361, so a 24" set up will run just fine, and cut anything you want to cut.
 
I don't know how tall you are, but if you're just going for reach, I'd go for a 28" light bar. Personally I think a 24" is the worst of both worlds. It's heavy, with a lot of weight far from the operator and I can't reach the ground with the tip without bending over. A 28" is a little heavier, but I can keep a wide stance, bend my knees a little and the tip is on the ground. I can keep the power head and my elbows close to my body which for me is less fatiguing. For limbing I like a 16" bar on a lightweight saw, but if I've got a 28" bar for felling I actually find it pretty doable.
28” light Stihl weighs about what a 20” regular weighs.
Yup. 28 ...not 24
 
Hey Ian!!!
Long time....

I still poke around here from time to time, giving out questionable advice.... LOL My 24" bar saw was a ported 372XPW with an 8 pin rim. 60cc saws need 20" bars in my opinion. That 550XP in my sig could probably run a 20, but it wears a 16" with an 8 pin rim.
 

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