Thoughts on dropping this tree?

[madrone]

I've got a decent sized Douglas Fir that needs to come down and am looking for some input. You can see in the photos it's a double header with a dbh of about 3 1/2', the split opens at about 12' up.
For starters, I'd much prefer to cut this tree from the ground as 12' up and cutting is not my style and maybe more importantly, I need both tops to fall in the same direction. Based on their lean, if one drops one direction the other will have to lift way too much to go the same way. (heavy equipment can't access this area to pull/push)

1. I'm wondering what folks here think about treating them as one tree?
2. Is there a way to know if their attachment is solid enough to do this?
3. Can I just chain them together so they don't split up while making the back-cut?
4. Also, if they fall together do I take the chance of damaging the wood?

Most opinions will be greatly appreciated.:monkey:

 

[Jacob J.]

I've cut quite a few like that as doubles. That one looks like it has a pretty strong union. I can't say for sure without seeing it in person but I'm getting the impression that it could be felled as a double. Binding it together up high is not a bad idea. The fiber of Doug Fir tends to lend itself to high tensile strength while retaining flexibility.

I'd make my stump as low as possible to take advantage of the better stump wood. I'd probably just do a Humboldt with a small gap in the back. Is this on someone's property near a house or just out on some unit?

 

[Jacob J.]

That one doesn't look like it's going to shatter or slab out, I think you'll be fine. If it were Redwood, Sequoia, or Red Cedar- then it would be likely to have some issues. Second/third growth fir is resilient.

 

[slowp]

Is that a line or something in the tree in the first picture? Barely in the upper third part? Looks kind of unnatural. Maybe I need the coffee to kick in and you should ignore this.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

How do you get low on the stump and do a humboldt face simultaneously? Dig a hole in the ground on the face side of the tree to put the saw in?

Just razzin ya..
Ian

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

Would it be possible to have a full picture of the tree(s)?

Would it be possible to have a full picture(s) of the tree(s) from a couple different directions?

How about pics of what really happened too? You know...the best laid plans of mice and men are often lead astray....

Dan

 

[clearance]

I've cut quite a few like that as doubles. That one looks like it has a pretty strong union. I can't say for sure without seeing it in person but I'm getting the impression that it could be felled as a double. Binding it together up high is not a bad idea. The fiber of Doug Fir tends to lend itself to high tensile strength while retaining flexibility.

I'd make my stump as low as possible to take advantage of the better stump wood. I'd probably just do a Humboldt with a small gap in the back. Is this on someone's property near a house or just out on some unit?

I agree, Douglas fir is great wood to fall, predictable and has good holding wood.

 

[outofmytree]

On the second photo about 1/4 the way up there is a dark patch. Is this fungus? A possible rot indicator?

I have never dealt with a Douglas fir but any codom I remove with that length of included bark I treat with great care. I wonder what effect releasing the pressure would have and if there is the possibilty of the trunk jumping off the stump at 90 degrees to the cut. Directly into you the saw handler is what I mean.

A full length photo or photo's would be great.

 

[maico490]

Would it be possible to have a full picture(s) of the tree(s) from a couple different directions?

How about pics of what really happened too? You know...the best laid plans of mice and men are often lead astray....

Dan

"What have the men got to do with it?"

 

[madrone]

Thanks for the input so far. Here are a few more photos to add to the mix. The first is a bit further back, any bigger pic of the tree and it looses all perspective.
The second is the back side of the graft. It seems more healed in than the front.

Jacob J.- the tree is not in a unit but in my back 40. Its a fairly straight drop and if it goes 90º by some freak chance the branches might just brush the porch.
Slowp - drink yer coffee, its just a stick.
Outofmytree - the dark spot is a little funk around the graft but when I hit it w/ the axe it shows no rot.

 

[Blakesmaster]

So the one lead is leaning towards your house and the other is leaning opposite? If that's the case I'd notch it to fall at 90 degrees off of each lean. That way you're not counting on the seam to pull one of the leads opposite it's lean.

 

[madrone]

So the one lead is leaning towards your house and the other is leaning opposite? If that's the case I'd notch it to fall at 90 degrees off of each lean. That way you're not counting on the seam to pull one of the leads opposite it's lean.

No, thats not it. From the house I see a Y. I am trying to use one to pull the other opposite.

 

[Blakesmaster]

No, thats not it. From the house I see a Y. I am trying to use one to pull the other opposite.

Gotcha. If it's possible, I'd try and fall it directly away from your house. Like I said before, you may be able to lift that lead to fall opposite it's lean but that is putting a lot of stress on the seam and it might break.

 

[madrone]

Gotcha. If it's possible, I'd try and fall it directly away from your house. Like I said before, you may be able to lift that lead to fall opposite it's lean but that is putting a lot of stress on the seam and it might break.

I wish I could send it that way but it'll get hung on a nice old oak I don't really want to bust up. I'm starting to like the idea of chaining it together. That and getting a bar longer than my 32" so I can just haul a$$ on the backcut while my buddy bangs the wedges.

 

[2dogs]

The union looks OK and goes pretty far up the trunk. It looks to me to be straight forward though a chain and binder is never a bad idea. I would fall it using the best lean 90o to the union. Keep your wedges snug and your chain sharp and it will be on the ground in 15 minutes.

 

[7sleeper]

Thanks for the input so far. Here are a few more photos to add to the mix. The first is a bit further back, any bigger pic of the tree and it looses all perspective.
The second is the back side of the graft. It seems more healed in than the front.

Jacob J.- the tree is not in a unit but in my back 40. Its a fairly straight drop and if it goes 90º by some freak chance the branches might just brush the porch.
Outofmytree - the dark spot is a little funk around the graft but when I hit it w/ the axe it shows no rot....

Hey Madrone

You seem to have a lot o these Y shaped trees in your backyard.

You seem to have some mutation going on. Any strange lights at night? Ever been abducted by some flying saucer?
:monkey:
:greenchainsaw:

7

 

[Tree Sling'r]

Put an undercut large enough for both pieces, put it the direction with the biggest lean of the two. It will go easily. It is two pieces, but actually one. The heavier lean of the two will pull both peices with ease, like limb weight.
I have cut lots and lots of these all with the same result.
It is just a tree.

Just an example, if I am standing where your last picture was taken, and I am facing north, that is where the tree will go, away from you - north. Look at all the limb weight and the lean. Make any sense?

 

[Gologit]

Thanks for the PM. It looks simple enough. Use your gunning sights when you face it up and take your time with it. If you want to steer the tree a little you can bust off a piece of the undercut and put it in one side of the face. Don't use too big a piece. This is usually easier than messing with a bunch of fancy cuts you're not familiar with.

When you back it up go to your wedges right away. Like 2Dogs said, keep them snug...but don't really pound them unless you have to. When you're cutting and especially when you're wedging keep looking up. Even with a hard hat on a widowmaker will break your neck if it hits you square.

Take a little time with it. You're not cutting for production and you have the luxury of stopping and looking to make sure everything is lining like it's supposed to.

Oh...one other thing. Don't run out of gas when you're backing it up. Let us know how you make out.

 

[056kid]

looks pretty strong. if they do want to pull apart, make sure to keep wood inside the middle of the hinge to hold both pieces.

 

[Hddnis]

I don't think that will break even if one side is lifting the other during the fall. Fir just doesn't act that way usually. If it's solid it's solid and you can work with it.


Mr. HE