TIME for a new saw? 357xp V 346xp

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Are you sure that you actually made it into a 262xp - subtle differences seem to make a big difference on the 262xp/261. :help:

Look at the ipl.....only difference is piston and cylinder...I put a 262xp cylinder and piston on it... AND for what it is worth, the 262xp had the single port muffler and the 261 came with a dual port....so I had a 262xp with a dual port and wasn't impressed. Get over it. lol.
 
Someone wanted to know the loaded 357 weight and it was 17lbs on my bathroom scale with a 20" titanium bar, fully topped off. Holds lots of gas compared to the 026. Is a real nice cutter, and has that slim Swedish body:rockn:
 
Ok if I keep the 262 can I put a compression release on it some how??????????????
 
Look at the ipl.....only difference is piston and cylinder...I put a 262xp cylinder and piston on it... AND for what it is worth, the 262xp had the single port muffler and the 261 came with a dual port....so I had a 262xp with a dual port and wasn't impressed. Get over it. lol.

Does that piston have the "domed" top???

I believe that is the most important difference between a true 262xp one, and a 261/262xp replacement/aftermarket one.......
 
Originally Posted by FREAKINGSTANG
261 husky (with 262 topend) PH = 15lbs
261 with 20" laminated bar & 3/8 chain = 17.75lbs


Seems awefully heavy for a 60cc saw.....

What sort of scale was that on?

Test report from DLG confirmes the weight stated by Husky - 5.8kg/12.8 lbs (empty powerhead).

They also found a bit more power than speced by Husky......:rockn: :rockn:
 
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What sort of scale was that on?

Test report from DLG confirmes the weight stated by Husky - 12.8 lbs (empty powerhead)......:rockn: :rockn:

who cares about empty powerhead weight? Do you use your saws with no fuel and oil?

That was taken from the pound for pound thread. FULL of fuel and oil.
 
Does that piston have the "domed" top???

I believe that is the most important difference between a true 262xp one, and a 261/262xp replacement/aftermarket one.......

The stock 261 has a dished piston for reduced compression and the 262 has a flat top piston. I've got the part numbers around here somewhere for the pistons if you are that worried about it...
 
I keep hearing all this hype about the 262xp. I Made a 262xp out of a 261 and I am not impressed at all... Actually very disappointed with it after all you guys making it out to be something it isn't. It feels heavier than my 365 and has less power. I think a 357xp is a much better choice, for saws on the market today....

Interesting Freak, very interesting!!

There was no way to even compare the 262 to my 350, and the ms390 vs the 262 was a joke! The 262 would walk away everytime and weighed considerably less! Maybe I need to find me a 357xp to play with?
 
Ok if I keep the 262 can I put a compression release on it some how??????????????

This got lost in the shuffle.

I believe the boss is there on the cylinder. But it's not very feasable, you would have to pull the cylinder, take it to a machine shop and have it drilled and tapped for the comp release, buy the release and reassemble it.
 
Rich,
I have both saw you are asking about and they are both great saws. I use the 346XP for limbing with a 16” bar and the 357XP for medium bucking and firewood cutting with a 20” bar. I think the 346XP is too small for what you are describing and I think you would be better served with the 357XP.

Ken
 
Richh
I use a 262 and a Kubota tractor allso. I also have the other two saws you spoke of allso.
My suggestion, buy a model 350 and put some money into your 262. I've seen aftermarket piston-cylinder kits on E-bay with a decompression port.
My partners 350 is set-up with a decomp button. Performance between the 350 vs 346 is a toss up too. Had to put blue tape on the handle of my 346 so I could tell my saw from his. My partner would tell you his 350 has more power than my 346, and he would correct. Hope he's not reading this.
 
Well I had a Stihl back in the 70's and it was a good runner and we have a good dealer in town so I will stop down and get the pitch.
Ray, if you have a good wood lot you should get about 5 cord a yr off 10 or so acres, on top of what I have cut off here in the last 25 yrs. I have had a real logger in here 2xs and have removed over 1200 cords. And most people that visit just can't believe it, but I still haven't thinned out all of the trees that need to go.
Still allot of work to be done.
Ya gota remember that 120A is a strip 1/4 mile wide and 3/4 mile long, hell there's 3.5 miles of trails so far.
Thanks Rich

Well Rich, I stand corrected, Im always learning something here. The reason I ask is because I also sell 30 to 50 cords of fire wood per year and have been doing so for the last 4 years. I own about 40 acres of woods and my father owns about 60 acres of woods. After 4 years at my current volume Im about picked clean unless I want to cut down green trees. I have recently had to start getting tree tops from loggers that have to remove them from certain job sites. I guess your wood lot is a great deal healthier than mine.

Back to your question, I do not believe it will be worth your money to put a decompression valve on your 262. You got a lot of different advice here, are you more confused now than when you started?
 
Well thanks for all the reply’s guys. Some how I new I would get a fare amount of input on this.
The idea of a new cylinder with /a decompression release sounds good; at least it would start easier.
Anyone know what cylinder would work for this?
(I've seen aftermarket piston-cylinder kits on E-bay with a decompression port).
Should I look for a cyl for a 262? Was this saw ever made with a decompression release??
I don’t think that you could just dirll and tap it and install one ?? Or can you?
The 262 still runs strong and the piston is not scored, at least form what I can see from the muffler side. I have never had the saw apart and have run Amsoil thru it.
 
new saws

Please step away from the 262. If it's the tennis elbow you're fighting, go with new saws with good anti-vibe. While the old 262 was a good saw sell it now and your other saws too. Then get yourself a new set of Dolmars. Get a 7900 and your Husky bars should fit it. You'll notice that the additional cc's are well worth a dollar. You'll need the 5100 for the trimming stuff or to drop trees when you don't want to get out the bigger saw. You'll have good saws and the anti-vibe will save your arms. If you want to stay with the Huskys go with a new 372 and the 346 if for no other reason than anti-vibe has come a long way in recent years. Myself, I use the 7900's and 346's.
 
Since someone already mentioned it...

I would recommend the Dolmar 5100 here. It is lighter than the 262 and has almost the same power IMO. It has a ton more grunt than the 346 stock and it keeps up with the 359 until you get into the larger wood.

If you have a Dolmar dealer in the area, take a look at the 5100. I don't know anyone that has run them that doesn't like the power to weight ratio. It is the most powerful 50cc saw out there, with great A/V and light weight to boot.
 
....
Back to your question, I do not believe it will be worth your money to put a decompression valve on your 262. You got a lot of different advice here, are you more confused now than when you started?

My brothers 262xpg is one of the first ones, without the decomp (I believe it was added in 1992/-93 or so). He has no trouble with it not having it........:D
 
Well Rich, I stand corrected, Im always learning something here. The reason I ask is because I also sell 30 to 50 cords of fire wood per year and have been doing so for the last 4 years. I own about 40 acres of woods and my father owns about 60 acres of woods. After 4 years at my current volume Im about picked clean unless I want to cut down green trees. I have recently had to start getting tree tops from loggers that have to remove them from certain job sites. I guess your wood lot is a great deal healthier than mine.

Ray, are you saying you are only taking the dead stuff? If so, that's the problem. I go through my woods looking for twisted, co-dominant, broken trees or ones that are stifling a healthy tree I want to let grow. Or where I want to put a trail. There are areas where the trees are just too thick and need to be thinned to promote growth in the healthy, straight ones.
 
Ray, are you saying you are only taking the dead stuff? If so, that's the problem. I go through my woods looking for twisted, co-dominant, broken trees or ones that are stifling a healthy tree I want to let grow. Or where I want to put a trail. There are areas where the trees are just too thick and need to be thinned to promote growth in the healthy, straight ones.

Second that, everything isnt right if you cut only dead wood... The forest needs to be thinned on regular basis (once every 10-20 years or so. 5-8 years in young forest) to archieve maximum growth and highest quality .... Also, properly thinned forest takes less damage from storms due to fact that trees are bigger (thick and short > long and thin), Also, this way you will always have plenty of wood to cut...

ps. We thinned 0.9ha area of young birch (~7cm dbh, ~7m tall) and we got around 15 cords of wood from that....
 
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