Tire replacement on Logsplitter

[Beamer]

I changed the tire on my vintage 1982 Mighty Mac logsplitter (no manual or model number available) that was held on by a single core nut and cotter pin. When I placed the tire back on, I could not align the hole in the axle to accept the cotter pin and want to know if there is a special knack to do this or if the cotter pin is actually required?

 

[JeffHK454]

I changed the tire on my vintage 1982 Mighty Mac logsplitter (no manual or model number available) that was held on by a single core nut and cotter pin. When I placed the tire back on, I could not align the hole in the axle to accept the cotter pin and want to know if there is a special knack to do this or if the cotter pin is actually required?

I don't know what a core nut is but a standard castellated nut should work and offers a pretty good amount of options to get your desired "tightness" for bearings.

 

[sundance]

I can't help with what a core nut is......but the cotter pin is needed. Keeps the nut and wheel on.

 

[JeffHK454]

I can't help with what a core nut is......but the cotter pin is needed. Keeps the nut and wheel on.

Yeah..I should have said that also..the pin is important.

 

[Beamer]

What is called a core nut is, in fact, a castellated nut and therefore that is the problem. I can’t seem to get the tire far ( onto the axel to allow the cotter pin to be placed. Even if I tighten the nut to the max, I still cannot place the cotter pin

 

[JeffHK454]

What is called a core nut is, in fact, a castellated nut and therefore that is the problem. I can’t seem to get the tire far ( onto the axel to allow the cotter pin to be placed. Even if I tighten the nut to the max, I still cannot place the cotter pin

Something's wrong then...all you changed was the tire?

 

[sundance]

Did the wheel get screwed up (burr or something) when the tire was replace? One side or both sides? Perhaps wrong side in?

If it came apart and wasn't damaged it should go back together.

 

[Beamer]

I’ll take the tire off and try to re-install again while checking for any burrs. Hopefully I can figure it out. Thanks for your help!

 

[JeffHK454]

I’ll take the tire off and try to re-install again while checking for any burrs. Hopefully I can figure it out. Thanks for your help!

Maybe your terminology is throwing us off..did you put a new tire on the original wheel or a whole new tire/wheel assembly?

 

[avason]

This reminds me of the time that I replaced a dry rotted splitter tire. Wouldn’t hold air so I bought a new tire. Didn’t want to cheap out on just a tube so I bought the tire. I think the tire was 4.8x8. Almost right after replacing the tire, I was moving a log close to the splitter so I wouldn’t over exert myself. Bring log closer to splitter...less work right? Wouldn’t you know...chainsaw got a little to close to the tire and cut right into it. So much for saving time. One of the many dumb things that I’ve done.

 

[rarefish383]

I would suggest that if it's that old, I'd put a new set of bearings on both sides. They are not too expensive. They do need to have new grease packed in them. When you pulled the old tire and wheel off you pulled the Cotter pin,then the castle nut, then a flat washer, then The bearing. The rear bearing stays in the wheel. If the wheel won't slide on far enough for the threads to stick through and get the bearing, washer and nut back on, with space for the Cotter pin, it sounds like you may have the wheel on reversed. Try flipping it around and see if that works. Some times you have to jiggle them a little too, to get them to slide on, Joe.

 

[GVS]

I can't help with what a core nut is......but the cotter pin is needed. Keeps the nut and wheel on.

A core nut may be a castleated nut or a crown nut.And as stated a cotter pin needs to be there to keep the wheel/tire from falling off

 

[rarefish383]

I just went back and reread your first post. When you pulled the wheel, was there a bearing in the wheel hub? Or, did it just slide right off the axle? Joe.

 

[crowbuster]

Look at the other side, compare. Mite need to turn the tire around ?

 

[NSMaple1]

Yes the cotter pin is needed. But seems things aren't getting communicated clearly.

Do you mean the wheel won't go on the axle far enough? Or the cotter pin hole won't line up? If the hole won't line up, just loosen the nut a tad. That's why the pin is needed - the nut isn't supposed to be real tight.

 

[bowtechmadman]

Pictures? Might solve a lot of questions.

 

[jwade]

i think msmaple has the fix.

 

[Beamer]

Thank you, all, for your timely responses. The tire is not reversed as the tire valve is on the outside. Per Rarefish 383, the wheel slid easily off the axle, no bearing was noted in the hub although I'm not sure what I should be looking for. Not sure what the bearing should look like but there is what appears to be a "rubber-like donut" at the inner most interior on the axle (on both sides) closest to the frame of the splitter. Per NSMaple1, the wheel does not go on far enough to allow the cotter pin to line up so loosening the nut won't help.

 

[NSMaple1]

If there is a castleated nut and a cotter pin, that means there are bearings in the wheel. One of which might likely have moved out of place a bit. So you'd need to make sure the bearings are seated in place.

 

[rarefish383]

If this link works go to about the 5 minute mark and the hub removal is just like your whole wheel removal. The bearings and nut and pin should all be the same, just a little smaller, Joe.