Trailer brakes question??

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NYH1

Tacticle Chainsaw Operator.
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My father and I built a 14x8 foot trailer for our ATV's. It has two 2,000 lbs axles. 18.5x8x8 inch tires, load range C, load capacity 940 lbs.

Going by my tires I would say my total gross trailer weight is 3,760 lbs. The trailer weighs about 1,750 lbs. empty. That gives me 2,010 lbs. of cargo/payload capacity. Our ATV's weigh roughly 1,600 lbs. That puts my gross weight at 3,350 lbs. Please correct me if I am wrong.

We want to go with electric brakes. My father and I both have factory tow packages on our trucks. Both have the wire set for the electric brake control box.

Will 7 inch brakes fit under my 8 inch rims? Should I put brakes on both axles?

Thanks!
 
7" should fit but the best way to put brakes on is to figure out who built your axles and what model number they are. With that info a trailer supply store will be able to order the right brake system for your axles. I would wire both axles on the trailer for safety's sake. You never know when you might need to stop really quick.
 
Unless you have a really small truck, or using it on steep grades, why do you need brakes at that light of a weight? We generally don't even consider brakes until the GVW gets close to 7K. But BD is right, a trailer supply house can help you get the proper set-up, along w/ the proper controller.
 
I wouldn't brake both axles, one would be plenty. With that weight that you described I'm not sure I would even worry about trailer brakes. But if it makes you feel better about it go ahead but having both axles brake would be overkill.
 
Post a pic of your axles and hubs........... If these are the "snowmobile trailer" style axles, I don't think you can get brake systems for them.
I may be wrong (I think it happened once) but I don't remember ever seeing a brake setup for those axle.
Good luck.

P.S. If you are hauling more weight than the tires are rated for, I would look at put higher load rated tires on also... IMO
 
I have a Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4x4. It pulls and stops it great. I don't want to get into any legal trouble if something ever happens. We might go out of state once in a while too. I just want to be set up right.

Both my axles have the square flanges on them for brake set up. I won't overload the tires. I don't think I can go with larger tires either. My tires are under the trailer like a snowmobile trailer. We built it like that so we could make it 8 foot wide.

Thanks again! :)
 
I finally got through to the DMV. They said any trailer that weighs over 1,000 lbs. empty has to have brakes. Being that my trailer is for personal use, if I can stop completely in 30 feet going 20 MPH, I only need brakes on one axle. If I was using it commercially, I would be subject to the DOT. They require brakes on both axles.

Now whether I can stop completely in 30 feet going 20 MPH is subject to be seen.
 
Going without trailer brakes is not worth the gamble.

Towing a trailer without electric trailer brakes is Russian Roulette.

I used to own a small, single axle, Apache Solid State Tent Trailer equipped with electric brakes. It had 520-12, Load Range C, wheels and tires on it. The GVWR on it was 1,500#. The electric brakes on it made noticeable improvements in driver confidence and in stopping distance.

One day I was driving along without incident, when all of a sudden I had to make an emergency stop. The electric brakes on that little trailer saved my vehicle from going off the road and being wrecked and they saved my sanity.

Current models of electric brake controllers, such as the Tekonsha Prodigy, are a vast improvement over the brake controllers of a few years ago. The Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller automatically levels itself and automatically adjusts the gain (or amount of braking) to compensate for uphill and downhill driving.

Electric trailer brakes are a great backup for when you experience brake fading on your tow vehicle. Should your trailer have more than one axle, make sure that all axles on your trailer have electric brakes.
 
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Where to find info on electric trailer brakes?

The vast majority of trailer axles are manufactured by Hayes, Dexter and Fayette. Your 7" inch drums sound a lot like a Dexter. The mfr of your particular axle can provide technical advice on exactly what is needed for adding electric trailer brakes. Tekonsha also offers parts for electric trailer brakes.

Hayes Axle, Inc./Al-Ko/Kober Corp. Full line axle and brake manufacturer.
http://www.hayesaxle.com/
http://www.al-kousa.com/

Dexter Axle
http://www.dexteraxle.com/

Tekonsha
http://www.tekonsha.com/product/default.asp
Tekonsha electric brake parts for 7" Dexter
http://www.tekonsha.com/product/parts.asp?cat=2170&titulo=Trailer Brake Parts#Dexter 7
 
I am from the school that you don't need a lot of brakes on a 2 ton trailer, but also from the school that you don't get a lot of brakes on a 1/2 ton pick-me-up.

Any trailer behind you and your need to add distance , you just can't stop as quickly.

And here is a stamped in the pavement truth...

Never trust that the trailer brakes are going to work for you in an emergency situation.

Test them offten, rolling to a stop on gravel is a good time to 'feel' for them, or going around a slight curve, test them on gravel to see if you can lock them up?

The ground is the first thing to fail, add an extra, but never drive like your trusting the trailer brakes.
 
I'm a little confused.

I am from the school that you don't need a lot of brakes on a 2 ton trailer, but also from the school that you don't get a lot of brakes on a 1/2 ton pick-me-up.

Any trailer behind you and your need to add distance , you just can't stop as quickly.

And here is a stamped in the pavement truth...

Never trust that the trailer brakes are going to work for you in an emergency situation.

Test them offten, rolling to a stop on gravel is a good time to 'feel' for them, or going around a slight curve, test them on gravel to see if you can lock them up?

The ground is the first thing to fail, add an extra, but never drive like your trusting the trailer brakes.

It sounds like a few people could have attended the wrong school. Unlike them, I firmly believe in the Boy Scout motto "Be Prepared".

Not being a felony reckless driving City Slicker from Los Angeles who careens thru red lights, who follows 4 inches from the vehicles in front of them, and who deliberately runs over pedestrians on sidewalks, I'm totally confused.

When did wimpy, lite-duty 1/2 tons equipped with wimpy axles and wimpy brakes actually qualify as trucks?

Have you ever driven a vehicle-trailer rig up and down steep mountain grades while smelling the overheated brakes of fully-loaded logging trucks?
Have you ever had a slow-moving big-rig suddenly swerve in front of you without signaling on a steep mountain grade? Are you a flatlander?

Are tow vehicle drivers supposed to be 100% clairvoyant in anticipating future emergency situations that may or not require emergency braking?; Such as when a deer could suddenly dash in front of us? Should I add a Crystal Ball to my dashboard?

Are we describing the dangerous, non-electrician technical-illiterates who jury-rig their vehicle and trailer wiring, and improperly ground trailer wiring thru their towing balls?; Install exposed and unreliable unsealed-splices in their trailer wiring?; Or tow fully-loaded 7,500# GVWR trailers with 3,500# tow bars?

If we adhere to standard safety and wiring practices, such as those practiced by aircraft electricians, auto manufacturers and the military, electrical connections and grounds should not fail.


FYI, There are heavy-duty disk brakes (with hydraulic boost) on all 4 wheels of my 3/4 ton pickup and I love them!!!!
 
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you need to sell that trailer on craigslist and buy another dual axle trailer with brakes on both axles.

8in wheels are not worth fooling with and will not carry much weight.
that's why most trailers with 8in wheels will not have brakes.

if you've got the budget and a truck that will pull it... best is trailer with tandem 7k lb axles with brakes on both. second best is tandem 5k lb axles. third choice is tandem 3500 lb axles with brakes.

stay away from trailer made with mobile home axles.

8lug = 7k lb
6lug = 5k lb
5lug = 3,500 lb

one cord of green can easily be 4k-5k lbs, for wood stay away from trailers without brakes on both axles.

don't be in a hurry and keep an eagle eye on craigslist.
deals pop up all the time... but the really great deals will be gone within minutes.

recently a tandem 7k axle 20ft trailer with brakes popped up on craiglist for $1,250
needless to say... it was gone within minutes.

the best trailer deal that I missed on craigslist was a 18ft dump with tandem 10k axles with extra hydraulics for $1,200. ad popped at 10pm... called and called... sent countless emails, etc... barely missed it ... arrrgggggg....

My father and I built a 14x8 foot trailer for our ATV's. It has two 2,000 lbs axles. 18.5x8x8 inch tires, load range C, load capacity 940 lbs.

Going by my tires I would say my total gross trailer weight is 3,760 lbs. The trailer weighs about 1,750 lbs. empty. That gives me 2,010 lbs. of cargo/payload capacity. Our ATV's weigh roughly 1,600 lbs. That puts my gross weight at 3,350 lbs. Please correct me if I am wrong.

We want to go with electric brakes. My father and I both have factory tow packages on our trucks. Both have the wire set for the electric brake control box.

Will 7 inch brakes fit under my 8 inch rims? Should I put brakes on both axles?

Thanks!
 
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you need to sell that trailer on craigslist and buy another dual axle trailer with brakes on both axles.

8in wheels are not worth fooling with and will not carry much weight.
that's why most trailers with 8in wheels will not have brakes.

if you've got the budget and a truck that will pull it... best is trailer with tandem 7k lb axles with brakes on both. second best is tandem 5k lb axles. third choice is tandem 3500 lb axles with brakes.

stay away from trailer made with mobile home axles.
8lug = 7k lb
6lug = 5k lb
5lug = 3,500 lb

one cord of green can easily be 4k-5k lbs
don't be in a hurry and keep an eagle eye on craigslist.
deals pop up all the time... but the really great deals will be gone within minutes.

recently a tandem 7k axle 20ft trailer with brakes popped up on craiglist for $1,250
needless to say... it was gone within minutes.

the best trailer deal that I missed on craigslist was a 18ft dump with tandem 10k axles with extra hydraulics for $1,200. ad popped at 10pm... called and called... sent countless emails, etc... barely missed it ... arrrgggggg....

Did you even read his post? He is using it for ATV's. He has enough trailer for what his load is as is. Twin 7 k axles for a couple of ATV's?

I would put brakes on the front axle at least,and and buy a breakaway kit for it.If you were towing with a 3500 ,it wouldnt be as important.A 1500 isn't a lot of truck to stop it with.
Here in NY,if the trailer weighs over 1000lbs empty it needs its own brakes,or if its max gvwr is 3000lbs or more it needs its own brakes.If you have brakes,you need a breakaway system to be legal in all states.The fine is substaintial for not haveing a functioning breakway.
 
you need to sell that trailer on craigslist and buy another dual axle trailer with brakes on both axles.

8in wheels are not worth fooling with and will not carry much weight.
that's why most trailers with 8in wheels will not have brakes.

if you've got the budget and a truck that will pull it... best is trailer with tandem 7k lb axles with brakes on both. second best is tandem 5k lb axles. third choice is tandem 3500 lb axles with brakes.

stay away from trailer made with mobile home axles.

8lug = 7k lb
6lug = 5k lb
5lug = 3,500 lb

one cord of green can easily be 4k-5k lbs, for wood stay away from trailers without brakes on both axles.

don't be in a hurry and keep an eagle eye on craigslist.
deals pop up all the time... but the really great deals will be gone within minutes.

recently a tandem 7k axle 20ft trailer with brakes popped up on craiglist for $1,250
needless to say... it was gone within minutes.

the best trailer deal that I missed on craigslist was a 18ft dump with tandem 10k axles with extra hydraulics for $1,200. ad popped at 10pm... called and called... sent countless emails, etc... barely missed it ... arrrgggggg....

With or without electric brakes and even on small boat trailers, tiny 8 inch wheels and tires are a serious safety hazard! Even if they could carry the load, tiny 8 inch wheels spin so fast that they tend to overheat and burn out the wheel bearings. Tiny 8 inch wheels and tires are a train wreck waiting to happen!
 
ooppsss... didn't catch the ATV part... thought it was a question about hauling wood on a trailer.

that changes everything about loads... still would not trust 8in wheels
I'd still sell the trailer with 8in wheels and buy another one with at least 14in or 15in wheels single axle. most light duty trailers comes without brakes.

Did you even read his post? He is using it for ATV's. He has enough trailer for what his load is as is. Twin 7 k axles for a couple of ATV's?

I would put brakes on the front axle at least,and and buy a breakaway kit for it.If you were towing with a 3500 ,it wouldnt be as important.A 1500 isn't a lot of truck to stop it with.
Here in NY,if the trailer weighs over 1000lbs empty it needs its own brakes,or if its max gvwr is 3000lbs or more it needs its own brakes.If you have brakes,you need a breakaway system to be legal in all states.The fine is substaintial for not haveing a functioning breakway.
 
ooppsss... didn't catch the ATV part... thought it was a question about hauling wood on a trailer.

that changes everything about loads... still would not trust 8in wheels
I'd still sell the trailer with 8in wheels and buy another one with at least 14in or 15in wheels single axle. most light duty trailers comes without brakes.

The weight of green wood might be a good assumption. It always pays to be prepared for the heaviest load that a given-size trailer might be asked to carry. I see 1/2 ton pickups with loads of firewood pulled off to the side of the road with broken rear axles all of the time. Not to mention the blown out tires.
 
You get over the notion real quick that you dont need trailer brakes when someone pulls into your space and jambs on their brakes. They outbreak you even with fully functional trailer brakes and you never have a legitimate excuses for why you tail ended someone. Yes I have pulled lots of trailers without brakes that should have had them but it never was or will be a wise thing to do.
Re fitting brakes on an old axle is very often more pricey than buying new complete axles so do the math before you start that project.
 
You get over the notion real quick that you dont need trailer brakes when someone pulls into your space and jambs on their brakes. They outbreak you even with fully functional trailer brakes and you never have a legitimate excuses for why you tail ended someone. Yes I have pulled lots of trailers without brakes that should have had them but it never was or will be a wise thing to do.
Re fitting brakes on an old axle is very often more pricey than buying new complete axles so do the math before you start that project.

Speaking of Russian Roulette. I've seen many near collisions in Northern California where tiny econo-boxes suddenly whip in front of fully-loaded logging trucks while hitting their brakes. The air space between the econo-boxes and the front bumpers of the logging trucks they cut off is about as thick as a layer of paint. This is frequently seen on long and steep downgrades where fully-loaded logging trucks have difficulty maintaining safe speeds, much less trying to actually stop. I accord logging trucks lots of room and respect. Fully-loaded logging trucks cannot stop on a dime.

The major advantage of electric brakes on trailers is they don't fade like hydraulic brakes do. Brake fluid is hydroscopic (It absorbs water). Water lowers the boiling temperature. When your brakes get hot, hydraulic brake fluid can boil. When brake fluid boils, you lose your brakes.
 
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Speaking of Russian Roulette. I've seen many near collisions in Northern California where tiny econo-boxes suddenly whip in front of fully-loaded logging trucks while hitting their brakes. The air space between the econo-boxes and the front bumpers of the logging trucks they cut off is about as thick as a layer of paint. This is frequently seen on long and steep downgrades where fully-loaded logging trucks have difficulty maintaining safe speeds, much less trying to actually stop. I accord logging trucks lots of room and respect. Fully-loaded logging trucks cannot stop on a dime.

The major advantage of electric brakes on trailers is they don't fade like hydraulic brakes do. Brake fluid is hydroscopic (It absorbs water). Water lowers the boiling temperature. When your brakes get hot, hydraulic brake fluid can boil. When brake fluid boils, you lose your brakes.

Sorry ,but you are incorrect in your assumption that boiling brake fluid is the only thing that causes brakes to fade.Any brake can fade if it is overheated.
Ever notice the runaway truck ramps on long steep grades?Well they are made for semi truck trailer combos,no brake fluid there,just compressed air.
 
I'm not selling the trailer.

Electric brakes and drums for one axle is a little over $200. Like I said, the pads are on the axles to mount the brakes to. We also ran the wire to the area of the trailer where the brakes would go when we wired it. It's wired with the round 7 prong plug.

I have to get a electric brake controller.
 

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