tree half way down?????

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Call me reckless then but I'd rather be tied into the trunk of a tree like that than working next to it on the ground, based on the experience of climbing a few like that and also the experience of springback smashing ribs and rupturing spleen and 3 weeks in the ICU and the hospital.

Portable lift sounds like best idea.
 
Guy, In this case you know not what you do.-If there is no target under it then noone need to get in it and noone need bring in a portable lift as someone else suggested.
Getting it down is simple..... but the sawyer needs to know what he is doing. Wradman's method can work but isn't my first choice. Tiny face on the under side. Borecut, then pop the strap from out of the lines of fall for either trunk or root ball. -Those that don't understand that outline shouldn't atttempt it without a thorough understanding of the forces and physics in play.
 
tree

i left out the undercut on purpose because i think that tree is under so much presure he might get pinched , i don't think the tree is real far off the ground but maybee i will be corrected. i had this vision with a tiny little undercut and a pinched saw he he he , trying to avoid that waste the wood instead easier to split later.
 
As somewone up thread mentioned, it is the danger of a barber chair that has to be watched for. Me, I would chain it tightly just above my cuts, would use a bit of undercut and then make one cut from top side. If I get a pinched bar, remove the powerhead and hope the bar isn't ruined, not that it would be a big deal if it were.

Harry K
 
Would you guys recommend making two small cuts on either side? To explain...if the face cut is a 12:00 then would you want to make two small cuts at 3:00 and 9:00, like 1 in. deep? No matter what the method I do know this, there had better be a clear, debris free rout to safety and be ready to move faster then a bran muffin and a strong cup of coffee.
 
Chain binding the tree could help, but I would not rely on it to make up for poor cutting methods. If it is very tall that size tree [24"] could possibly break a weak chain when it split if you did not have it cut up enough inside before you released it.
 
John Ellison said:
Chain binding the tree could help, but I would not rely on it to make up for poor cutting methods. If it is very tall that size tree [24"] could possibly break a weak chain when it split if you did not have it cut up enough inside before you released it.

Yes, the chain plus a bore cut makes it much safer but still dangerous. The chains I use are very heavy duty log chains inherited from my old man. Those things have pulled some amazing loads. A saw with about an 8' bar would be nice :greenchainsaw:

Harry K
 
tree

I think we might not be getting the whole picture here, earlier he said he could stand underneath it and almost touch the top of the tree with his bar.
That tell me it's almost on the ground so i wouldn't sweat it, i wouldn't under cut it if it's that heavy and that close to the ground , use the proceedure i talked about earlier ,or hire a proffesional,or irrigate the crap out of the stump untill the tree does come all the way down what do you think of that idea, run water into the ground for a couple of days untill it falls over that might save you a couple of buck.
If you are going to keep thinking about this you should ribbon off a no work zone for the danger area underneath that tree so that someone doesn't get hurt.
 
wradman said:
I think we might not be getting the whole picture here, earlier he said he could stand underneath it and almost touch the top of the tree with his bar.
That tell me it's almost on the ground so i wouldn't sweat it, i wouldn't under cut it if it's that heavy and that close to the ground , use the proceedure i talked about earlier ,or hire a proffesional,or irrigate the crap out of the stump untill the tree does come all the way down what do you think of that idea, run water into the ground for a couple of days untill it falls over that might save you a couple of buck.
If you are going to keep thinking about this you should ribbon off a no work zone for the danger area underneath that tree so that someone doesn't get hurt.

Now that's an idea! Should work too given enough water. If I did it, I wouild want to keep it wet until I had the tree cut off. Probably overly cautious but...

Harry K
 
ok boys,you wanted a picture.well,b1rdman has helped me out with it.mine look just like his in "nasty winds cause a leaner"post just after mine.except mine is way more blown over.mine is closer to the ground at about a 30 degree angle whereas his is about a 60 degree angle.his root ball is just coming up,mine is 3/4 of the way out of the ground.will the wrapping of the logging chain around it just above the cut work?i have a 30' fairly heavy chain that i would be using and wrapping it around the tree several times to strengthen it.that is to keep it from barberchairing.
thanks for all of your posts and concerns,
whitearrow->>>--------------->
 

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