Saw itself isn't necessarily that unique. There's lots of consumer ones that work well. The bar and chain typically are unique though. If you check Bailey's (and others) you'll find carving packages consisting of chain, rim sprocket/ spur, and carving bar for many small popular consumer saws. Stihl has an 8mm tip bar now, next common size up is "dime" tip (10mm), then quarter tip (12mm) and from there you get into (in Cannon lingo) Toonie tip and arborist tip. Anything smaller then the quarter tip should have a 1/4" pitch chain, and can be used on the others as well. Quarter tip bar and larger can use 3/8 lo-pro or .325. There are carving chains available in both 1/4 and 3/8 that work better for plunging deeper cuts. Even a arborist nosed bar and standard chain can do fairly detailed work if you want to experiment to try it out, BUT BEWARE, THEY DO TEND TO KICK BACK. The larger the radius on the nose of the bar, the more it's going to want to shoot upward if you try to stuff the bar in perpendicular to the piece you are working on. Most bars used for carving are fairly short, 10" to 14". 10" gives better control, sometimes you need a little longer bar to reach around other things. I prefer smaller saws myself, 35cc or so. You end up working at different heights then you do falling or bucking firewood. For the same reason, this can be fairly dangerous. Maybe start out on pieces that are laying down before doing a fixed stump. For years I looked for a Kevlar shirt and saw pants (that I could wear in the summertime, I've got a couple pairs of wintertime ones that I smolder in) because when carving you are working at unconventional heights. I believe there are both available through both Husky and Stihl down there, as well as most safety gear supply places. Was never able to get my hands on them here. So use caution and have fun. Hope this helps.