Tree Spade / Tree Moving Question

[steven_ucf]

Hello Pros,

I am planning on beginning a tree install/sales/moving business this spring. I am trying to think of ways to maximize usage time.

My question is: Do you know if using a 12:1 (rootball size: caliper) ratio, on a Big John 65; would I be able to dig trees and move them to my property in the spring; then sell them and move them during the summer without hurting the survivability rate.

I would not think doing this would hurt the tree because all the roots are already cut off, I wouldn't imagine roots growing back past the original cuts, in a 3 - 4 month period. But I don't know that for sure.

What I am trying to do is think of a way that I can have work for most of the year using a tree spade. I know with a 90" I can just go with smaller trees; however, to get one that is half way decent you need to drop 60 - 80k. So I am brainstorming other ideas.

Thanks,

Steven

 

[BayouTree]

Do the trees need to be moved to your property first or can they stay and be moved as you sell them? If you stick with the ratio 12:1 I would think you would be fine moving most trees in summer, however while the trees are dormant would be preferred. How a tree tollerates moving can be pretty species specific. I would opt to move the trees once if possible. Follow-up care if pretty important as well. Maybe you could sell an after care program to go along with the move.

 

[Thillmaine]

Before you invest in a tree spade

Two co workers of mine went to a seminar with regarding barerooting. The studies have shown that barerooting trees during dormancy (spring or fall) people have just as much luck as trying to dig them. They fix all the rips with fresh cuts just as you would a stub in the crown (back to a proper lateral). Then dip them in hydrogel and plant them within 24 hours. They have volunteers plant them in a shallow hole and mud them in. They say that success rates are as high as 97%. I dont know the rate for Balled and burlapped trees, but just from experience I can say its not even close to that.Keep in mind this is only for smaller (2-3 inch) trees.
When a tree spade digs a tree, it crushes roots and makes shabby cuts on the roots. These roots are not as apt to survive in comparison to making nice cuts on the roots. The man who did them seminar said he buys trees a year ahead of time and takes all the soil off and fixes root defects, and makes proper cuts on the roots. He then plants them in wood chips and lets the fibrous roots grow out in the chips. With sufficient water he will have a substansially larger and better root ball then by simply planting the b and b tree. This also removes the potential for hydrologic discontinuity (aka ball soil to native soil interface issues). Say you are planting a tree with a sandy ball in clay. The ball is going to become a sinkhole for all the soil around it to drain into because of far more macropores. It also will be hard for the roots to grow froma nice sandy medium into a hard clay soil. Some people use compost mixed with the native backfill to help break the change in medium, although research has said the sucess rates are the same with or without the compost.
I would also condier learning drum lacing. The company I work for has transplanted very large (up to 24 inches) trees with great sucess, by simply drum lacing, and making proper cuts on all the roots and eliminating and root defects. Doing so allow much high regeneration rates for the roots with wounds on them.