Tree too thick for my saw

[chipper1]

Agree with @7sleeper on the 590. After running my 590 a bunch if your not going strait to the 620p the extra money isn't worth it. View attachment 569580This is a monster ash farmer Steve and I worked on noodling from the end then cutting that chunk off time consuming but doable.

James are you sure that's an ash or is it walnut, you better ask @farmer steve to make sure .
Bet the 590 is screaming now.

@echomeister hows the battle going now, are you winning or is nature .

 

[farmer steve]

James are you sure that's an ash or is it walnut, you better ask @farmer steve to make sure .
Bet the 590 is screaming now.

@echomeister hows the battle going now, are you winning or is nature .

that one was ash. a bit of rot gave it that walnut brown look.

 

[chipper1]

that one was ash. a bit of rot gave it that walnut brown look.

I was speaking in regards to the tree identification that had gone on before with the "walnut" .

 

[echomeister]

That straight section in my pic has been cut up into 8 inch thick rounds then quartered and stored. The saw survived without any perceptible damage.
I don't think it has been tuned like is recommended here. I checked the limiters and they are in place. When I bought the saw I smelled the gas tank and it had never been filled. I used the stihl synthetic oil at 40:1 and never ran it wide open.
I might just try removing the high limiter and rich her up a bit.

Lots of sawchips for the garden too.

 

[ropensaddle]

I would clearly look at the Echo 590 instead of the 600 if money was tight. Some members here mentioned "Echo days" and getting a further discount. The 590 is only a slightly detuned version that can easiyl improve with a muffler mod. If you want a new saw.
Another option might be a mayurama mcv51 = dolmar 5105 = makita EA5001. They are supposed to cost ~350 on the US amazon site. It would be seriously more powerful than your saw and I would not worry about it burning up as soon as the cat is removed.

Further crooked cutting can also happen by applying force to the outside of the front handle, thereby causing leverage on the side of the saw and letting it cut crooked.

I have a 6701, the model prior to the 680 and it will easily tackle the job you show above.

About cutting crooked, I find that considering your equipment, your presented cut is VERY good! Don't find it very crooked at all!

Renting a larger saw is definately the most economical thing to do, but I would also ask around if maybe one of your friends has some larger saws.

Last, I would not worry a second about premature rotting on oak! It will take years in it's present form to even slightly beginn rotting! I season small oak splits typically at least two years, with complete trunks like you have it will take serious time for it to dry out! So I find no imanent stress to quickly get the job done. And don't forget, wedges will save you from serious headaches.

7

Nuff said

 

[Jondoe]

Hi, Haven't been on here for some time, but I just had a large tree in my yard fall down, and no, I don't know if it make noise or not.

The main trunk is to large for my 14" bar to cut all the way thru so I have to cut from both sides. The problem is that the cuts don't meet in the middle. So the question is, is it the bar or the chain that is causing the problem?

After completing the cut, I inspected the chain and the bar. The bar is showing some wear and the chain did not look very sharp anymore.

Question - can i turn the bar over and use that other side? The bar is a Oregon "Double Guard 91"

In the attached photo, you can see that for about the first half of the cut, the cut is more or less streight, but the last half takes a turn.

 

[Woody912]

Hi, Haven't been on here for some time, but I just had a large tree in my yard fall down, and no, I don't know if it make noise or not.

The main trunk is to large for my 14" bar to cut all the way thru so I have to cut from both sides. The problem is that the cuts don't meet in the middle. So the question is, is it the bar or the chain that is causing the problem?

After completing the cut, I inspected the chain and the bar. The bar is showing some wear and the chain did not look very sharp anymore.

Question - can i turn the bar over and use that other side? The bar is a Oregon "Double Guard 91"

In the attached photo, you can see that for about the first half of the cut, the cut is more or less streight, but the last half takes a turn.

View attachment 871699View attachment 871700

could be you, could be bar or chain needs to be trued up. I have a tendency to wander off course at the bottom myself.

 

[ATH]

Possibilities:
*Chain not sharpened evenly on both sides (or rakers not brought down evenly)
*Bar is outtawhack - make sure it is flat, not twisted or bent. dress the edges
*Operator error

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Especially on larger trees the OP must direct the saw to the way it should be. On larger trees 3 to 5' I mark the path to aim for on several spots so that the cut is straight. Thanks

 

[Jondoe]

OK thanks for the suggestions. Still have some questions:
- Can the bar be used with the top side down ? then I would have new surface for the chain to ride on.
- How tight should the chain be ? Right now I have it set so that I can only pull the chain about a 1/4" up out of the bar.

Richard

 

[ATH]

You can cut up or down with the bar. Make sure you understand the different forces you will encounter. You can also flip the bar over.

Chain tightness: when you pull up on it, you should just be able to see the bottoms of the drive links. It should "snap" back in place when you let go.

 

[Jondoe]

OK guys, thanks for all the input.

This morning i sharpened the chain and inspected the bar. The bar looks straight, not twisted or bent. Put the chain and bar on the saw. I put the bar with the top side down, and then proceeded to put the chain on backwards Found this out the first time the saw touched the wood, nothing ! So back into the garage, change the chain to the correct direction and gave it a go.

I made 6 cuts into the main trunk as I wanted them small enough to handle by hand. Each one about a foot thick. Minding what some people said about watching how the cut is going, I did farrelly well. The worst misalignment between the two opposite cuts was about 1 inch. So I felt good about that.

I also noticed that the right vertical side of the kick back lever lined up with the bar. So I was using that as a guide in cutting.

Again thanks for the help.

Richard

 

[Ted Jenkins]

As far as how tight the chain should be there are rules of thumb and then not. When the OP can pull the chain to where the drive links are visible for some saws that is way too tight as it depends. It depends on the wood you are cutting and the chain. First the OP must understand all the forces at least a little then proceed knowing what to look for. If the OP is cutting really dense hardwood the bar will warm up more than usual often. A issue with that is a warm or hot bar will expand while the chain with plenty of oil will stay at a reasonable temperature. So after a couple of minutes the warm bar cool chain will cause the chain to be too tight. Then maybe on a cold day while cutting the bar could be quite cool, but the chain is really working hard causing the chain to be warn with the bar cold. So that situation will have the chain too loose. The rule of thumb that I go by is to become familiar with the saw then at operational temperature check the saw for binding and adjust as needed. Run the chain as tight as possible warm up to double check to be sure there is no binding occurring. The chain should always be able to be moved freely with out jerk jerk as the chain is moving over sprocket. If the chain is falling below the bar after use then too lose and if chain is not able to be moved freely then too tight the ideal adjustment is between those two. Thanks