Tried out my new ms290, I have some questions

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

tec498

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Mar 28, 2010
Messages
153
Reaction score
5
Location
East Coast
I tried out my new ms290 this weekend and I think it's a pretty nice saw for the money. I've been helping my parents clear some property for awhile and I've been using a Husqvarna 440e for the smaller stuff and I also have a Poulan 3400 that runs well but is extremely heavy. The 290 seems to be able to handle everything I want to cut now and it seems like a good all around saw. Now the questions :smile-big:

When I bought it the guy at the dealer said it can run a 20" B/C but he said Stihl doesn't recommend keeping it on there all the time. I got the 18" because he said that. I find it has plenty of power to cut with the 18" so I don't see why the 20" would be much worse. I can't find anywhere where Stihl says a 20" B/C can't be kept on the saw. On their website it just says recommended bar length is 16-20". Am I missing something?

When I was at there he was trying to sell me on an ms311. He said that one can pull a 3/8 chain on a 20" bar and the 3/8" chain will cut much faster than the .325 on the ms290. Is the ms311 really that much better than the ms290?

Has anyone here run an ms290 and an ms311 so I can get a good objective comparison?

Also, when I was starting the saw cold it would fire up and then immediately die. It took me about 7-8 tries to get it fired up when I was starting cold. And I did switch that little rubber boot and flip the air dam like recommended in the manual to prevent carb icing.

Thanks guys
 
I have a 20" on mine and see no problems with it.

I modded the muffler and run the H screw fully open to the limit of the restricter cap. Which after doing some reading on here will be pulled out and then replaced for a little richer setting.

There a lot of people here that should be very familiar with this saw. That will give more info.

I really doubt you are going to want to mod the muffler intil it is out of warranty unless you can by a back up one to switch out.
 
are you running 3/8 or .325 on the saw

I run a 20" .325 on my 029 all the time it is actually a little smaller bore than the ms290
 
Last edited:
I'm running .325. Is the larger gauge really made to pull a bigger chip and cut faster? I never really fully understood the real difference until this week.
 
I had a ms290. Here are my thoughts to you.

Yes it will pull a 20 inch b/c just fine. But of course 16/18 inch b/c will cut faster.

7-8 pulls too much. should only be 5 max. once it fires take brake off and give it very small revs at first then work way up on trigger/throddle to warm saw up.

.325 cuts fine, 3/8 will cut faster.

MS311 is new technology. much better a/v, clean emissions, very very very smooth saw. no vibrations at all, reaLLY. and much better on gas consumption.
 
The 311 is a much nicer saw, it does have the power to run a 20" bar with 3/8"
all day long and the anti vibration won't wear you out. But the 311 is 110$ more expensive than the 290. And if the 290 has enough power for the work you need to do then you're fine. The 290 can run a 20" bar with .325 without issue but 18" is the best combination of cutting speed and length. You need to have the tech. at the dealer richen up the low speed needle about 1/4 to a half turn out. This will give the saw more fuel on start up and at an idle.
 
Thanks for all the replies guys. I think I'm going to keep the 290 because I'm really happy with it besides the difficulty starting it. Sorry, I must have phrased it wrong. It didn't take me 7-8 pulls to start. More like 2-3 with choke on to get it to pop and then 1-2 half choke to get it to fire up. It would run for about a second and then cut right back off at that point before I even had a chance to take the break of and give it gas. After 7-8 tries of repeating this procedure it ran. I'll take it by the dealer sometime this week. It's good to know the 18" bar will be faster, I think I'm going to keep it on there since there isn't much difference. Will it pull a 3/8 gauge tooth with much problem or will it bog down a lot? If it won't it isn't a big deal. Just wondering what it can handle. I will be cutting a mixture of hard and soft wood.
 
On mine I pull it full choke until it fires. If not run for a or a month it might take three plus pulls or more. Pull it one more time full choke and switch to half choke and it seems to take off on that pull.
 
5 pulls is normal. but it dieing right after is not. should be 5 pulls, idle smooth, brake off then slowly give it gas at first. thats how I do it on all my stihls. muich better for them IMO then giving them full throddle right after startup. and slowly giving it gas gives it time to warm up. Just easier on the saw.

Please wear your PPE also. chaps, boots, gloves if needed, and ear protection.
 
My 029 came with a 16" .325 bar and chain I switched to a 20" .325 bar and chain it does not cut any slower than the 16 did
 
I wear gloves, eye protection, and ear protection. I was wondering if ear protection is really that important. I've ran my 440 without ear protection a few times and I never had any ringing in my ears before or after running it and never really noticed anything. Is ear protection really that important while running a chainsaw? I can't wear chaps. Call me stupid, call me crazy, call me anything you want but I can't wear them. They're the most annoying thing and I hate them.
 
I wear gloves, eye protection, and ear protection. I was wondering if ear protection is really that important. I've ran my 440 without ear protection a few times and I never had any ringing in my ears before or after running it and never really noticed anything. Is ear protection really that important while running a chainsaw? I can't wear chaps. Call me stupid, call me crazy, call me anything you want but I can't wear them. They're the most annoying thing and I hate them.

yes ear protection is important. over time it can damage your hearing. Im sure some of the old loggers cant hear worth a damn now...

No chaps? hmmm.

you can get cut resistant pants. yes pants. to put over your jeans or shorts.
 
Your 290 will pull a 3/8 chain just fine thats how most of them used to be set up in my neck of the woods last time I checked. Also ear protection is very important don't know how long you have been running a chainsaw but the noise level will eventually cause hearing loss and there is not always a ringing in your ears to let you know the damage has been done. Lastly not trying to be a jerk, but take it from someone who has worked a fair amount around noisy things like shooting, running circular saws, chop saws, chain saws, and rotary hammers for long periods without wearing ear protection, you won't notice the loss till it is to late and you are having to ask people to repeat what they just said louder because they sound like they are whispering.
 
I noticed when I got my 290 that it got easier to start over time. It started hard for the first 2 months and about the time I was going to take it back to the dealer I noticed that it started easier. It was 3 degrees out this morning and it started on the 3rd pull.

"Call me stupid, call me crazy, call me anything you want but I can't wear them. They're the most annoying thing and I hate them."

Out of curiousity, are crutches and/or a wheelchair more comfortable? I hate wearing gloves but have many cuts and tears on them that would have been on my hands. (not saw related) Im not going to call you stupid or crazy, but safety should be seriously considered.

If you are going to play with big boy toys, you should wear big boy clothes
 
My 029 came with a 16" .325 bar and chain I switched to a 20" .325 bar and chain it does not cut any slower than the 16 did
Does a 029 has less power then a 026 pro?
I wear gloves, eye protection, and ear protection. I was wondering if ear protection is really that important. I've ran my 440 without ear protection a few times and I never had any ringing in my ears before or after running it and never really noticed anything. Is ear protection really that important while running a chainsaw? I can't wear chaps. Call me stupid, call me crazy, call me anything you want but I can't wear them. They're the most annoying thing and I hate them.
You dont have to wear ear protection, gloves, chaps, and glasses is all you really need. You dont really need chaps, but its a good idea. Ive cut alot with just gloves and glasses.
 
I have the 290 with a .325 chain and 18" bar. Mine was kinda hard to start and was cold natured because of the lean setting from the factory. I richened it up on the low and high side and it makes all the difference in the world. The saw runs MUCH better after doing this. I also opened up the exhaust and retuned, this helped the saw cut better too.
Scott.
 
Back
Top