Trying to pick a chainsaw... Make a Makita Electric?

[tomandjerry00]

I posted in Homeowners part, realized I probably should have posted here.....

I have a little 14" Homelite Chainsaw that is about 35 years old as well as a couple small/medium (old Wen and Remington) duty electrics and am looking for a new chainsaw. The electrics lack power/speed (I might have burned out my Wen...) and the Homelite is just getting annoying to start and keep maintained. I have an electric chain sharpener so I don't think a dull chain is the problem.

Whatever saw I buy will be used largely for sawing up firewood (I sell firewood on the side, maybe 10 cords a year) and cutting up wood for various projects such as cutting boards, candle stick holders, etc. I was hoping for a high-quality electric (was looking at the Makita or possible Worx) or a cheaper gas powered saw. I was thinking I'd prefer an electric because I am working close to the house and can avoid a lot of starting and maintenance issues, but am open to anything! Was hoping to keep it around $200-300 and at least a 14" bar. Boss just gave me a Home Depot gift card, so if they carry it, that's a bonus.

I was also thinking about buying a small, cheap chainsaw mill, any recommendations? This is NOT for constant use, just once a month or so. Really just looking to cut 10-14" trees across the rings into 1/2" to 2" disks. If you have other ideas on how to do this, let me know! Looked into getting a bigger band saw, but that is very costly...

Any help or advice would be very appreciated! Thanks!

 

[mesupra]

How about a Husky 440, nice sized homeowner saw, good quality nice features & they get great reviews here on AS. Matter of fact I have a new one I would ship for $220 with bar and chain.

 

[7sleeper]

I have a Makita 14" Electric Chain Saw Model: UC3530A
Makita USA - Tool Details - UC3530A
I like it a lot.

Powerwise it feels very similar to my Makita/Dolmar 420(which I believe is about as perfect a home owner saw as you can get!).
DOLMAR - PS-420
The new more powerful model
DOLMAR - PS-421

If you add a 2 stroke chainsaw to your line I would think, from your discription, a 40-50cc semi pro line would be a good choice. Any of the major manufacturers would make you happy. Dolmar=Makita, Emak=Efco=Oleo Mac, Echo=Shindaiwa, Husqvarna=Jonsered=(Mc Culloch=Partner the home owner line), Solo or Stihl.
Very popular here, for the homeowner, are the Poulan Pro 5020. Here's the link http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/192321.htm.

7

 

[srb08]

I posted in Homeowners part, realized I probably should have posted here.....

I have a little 14" Homelite Chainsaw that is about 35 years old as well as a couple small/medium (old Wen and Remington) duty electrics and am looking for a new chainsaw. The electrics lack power/speed (I might have burned out my Wen...) and the Homelite is just getting annoying to start and keep maintained. I have an electric chain sharpener so I don't think a dull chain is the problem.

Whatever saw I buy will be used largely for sawing up firewood (I sell firewood on the side, maybe 10 cords a year) and cutting up wood for various projects such as cutting boards, candle stick holders, etc. I was hoping for a high-quality electric (was looking at the Makita or possible Worx) or a cheaper gas powered saw. I was thinking I'd prefer an electric because I am working close to the house and can avoid a lot of starting and maintenance issues, but am open to anything! Was hoping to keep it around $200-300 and at least a 14" bar. Boss just gave me a Home Depot gift card, so if they carry it, that's a bonus.

I was also thinking about buying a small, cheap chainsaw mill, any recommendations? This is NOT for constant use, just once a month or so. Really just looking to cut 10-14" trees across the rings into 1/2" to 2" disks. If you have other ideas on how to do this, let me know! Looked into getting a bigger band saw, but that is very costly...

Any help or advice would be very appreciated! Thanks!

The best advice I can give you, is to RUN, RUN away, and don't look back.
This place will lure you in. The first few posts will deal with reasonably priced saws but that is just a facade. In less than two pages of posts you will find yourself lusting after a new ported wood destroying beast. It will consume you. You will be looking for things you can can sell, just to get a little closer to the price of owning one.
After owning your first, the desire to own more will consume you. The question of how many saws you need will always be answered with, just one more.

When you start to talk about mills and milling saws, you only accelerate your descent into the abyss. It's a dark place occupied by large displacement saws and the wrecked souls of those who have followed the path.

Do yourself a favor and post in the firewood section but go no further.
This is a dangerous place, save yourself before it's too late.

 

[barneyrb]

Ask SS about the "lipstick" saw.........

 

[sawfun9]

For the price, if your gonna go electric, makita is the way to go. The Makita is the only one with a variable speed contorl. We did a series of electic saw video's a while back and it came in second to the very expensive Stihl mse220. Interestingly enough a little old Husky 36 beat them all. If your going with the Makita I recommend Stihl RM chain and it will be .325 .050. Just beware that kickback with an electric saw is potentially worse than a gas saw.

 

[Philbert]

I have a Makita 14" Electric Chain Saw Model: UC3530A . . . I like it a lot.

I have the older version of that saw (UC4000) with a 16 inch bar that I also really like. I run it with a PowerSharp bar and chain (3/8 low profile), and it is my 'low fuss saw combo'. I also have gas saws, but the electric is what I prefer to use close to home. The UC4030A is the current 16" model. Also sold as a Dolmar ES-173A in red, which sometimes sells for less (?).

You can rent the current Makita version from a Home Depot Rental to try it. They can special order one for you through the 'Pro' desk, but it is not on their shelves. I bought 2 of them used from their rental locations - got one for a friend who liked mine when he saw it.

These are in a totally different class than the Wen and Remington saws. I like the in-line design of my saw (like a Sawzall) that balances well and lets me get into tight spaces, like when thinning lilacs. Others saws to compare could be the Husquvarna/Jonsered, or the STIHL electrics.

Just beware that kickback with an electric saw is potentially worse than a gas saw.

???

These saws have chain brakes. They are supplied with low-kickback bars and chains. The chains don't coast when the trigger is released. The chain is turning at a much slower speed than a comparable gas saw, so any kickback momentum will be considerably less. Yes, they can kickback. Yes, they will cut. Yes, chainsaw chaps are not rated for electric saws because the fibers will not stall out the motor like on a gas saw. How does this make make the kickback 'potentially worse'?

Philbert

 

[7sleeper]

For the price, if your gonna go electric, makita is the way to go. The Makita is the only one with a variable speed contorl. We did a series of electic saw video's a while back and it came in second to the very expensive Stihl mse220. Interestingly enough a little old Husky 36 beat them all. If your going with the Makita I recommend Stihl RM chain and it will be .325 .050. Just beware that kickback with an electric saw is potentially worse than a gas saw.

Do you have a link?

I have the older version of that saw (UC4000) with a 16 inch bar that I also really like. I run it with a PowerSharp bar and chain (3/8 low profile), and it is my 'low fuss saw combo'. I also have gas saws, but the electric is what I prefer to use close to home. The UC4030A is the current 16" model. Also sold as a Dolmar ES-173A in red, which sometimes sells for less (?).
Actually I bought my BIL the same saw,UC4030A, in 16" version. He only has an e saw and has been very happy with it also.
You can rent the current Makita version from a Home Depot Rental to try it. They can special order one for you through the 'Pro' desk, but it is not on their shelves. I bought 2 of them used from their rental locations - got one for a friend who liked mine when he saw it.
This is very good advice to try out what you want in advance.
These are in a totally different class than the Wen and Remington saws. I like the in-line design of my saw (like a Sawzall) that balances well and lets me get into tight spaces, like when thinning lilacs. Others saws to compare could be the Husquvarna/Jonsered, or the STIHL electrics.




???

These saws have chain brakes. They are supplied with low-kickback bars and chains. The chains don't coast when the trigger is released. The chain is turning at a much slower speed than a comparable gas saw, so any kickback momentum will be considerably less. Yes, they can kickback. Yes, they will cut. Yes, chainsaw chaps are not rated for electric saws because the fibers will not stall out the motor like on a gas saw. How does this make make the kickback 'potentially worse'?

Philbert

Actually as fas as I have understood it, e-saws don't have a clutch and that is the important part. No clutch = no slipping = no stopped chain. And the chain brake is nothing else but a electric switch for the motor. Chain brake activated = motor off.

All else excellent advice.

7

 

[tomandjerry00]

Thanks! And lipstick saw?

Thanks for all the help!

Right now I'm leaning towards a Makita with a 16" bar. I think it will do what I need well with minimal maintenance and no starting issues. From the videos I've seen, the chain stops immediately after finger off the trigger so I am not too worried about the chain brake situation. If I find that isn't cutting it, then its a good excuse to get a bigger gas saw

I'll get that replacement chain with it too, thanks for the heads up!

Anyone think I can power a small chainsaw mill with it if I go nice and slow with a sharp chain? I realize I'm probably pushing my limits but thought I would ask. I was thinking about the Granberg Alaskan? Other thoughts? Nothing wider than 10 inches or so.

If anyone thinks my getting the Makita is a mistake, please let me know!

 

[mesupra]

If you are going to use the saw within 100' of power. I think electric tools are the way to considering many issues already mentioned. If you have. I think you can also forget about milling with an electric saw. Milling with a chainsaw in general doesnt seem to be the best idea.

 

[Philbert]

Actually as fas as I have understood it, e-saws don't have a clutch and that is the important part. No clutch = no slipping = no stopped chain. And the chain brake is nothing else but a electric switch for the motor.

I will have to look at the parts diagram to see if there's a clutch, but there is a brake handle that will respond if the saw kicks back at you.

Right now I'm leaning towards a Makita with a 16" bar. . . I'll get that replacement chain with it too, thanks for the heads up!

Anyone think I can power a small chainsaw mill with it if I go nice and slow with a sharp chain?

I would stick with the 3/8 inch low-profile chain that was what the saw was designed to pull. It might not perform as well with the larger chain. Makita also has 'proprietary' sprockets so you may not be able to find one for.325 pitch chain on that saw.

As far as the sawmill I don't think it's a good idea. Milling is really hard, even on larger gas saws due to the constant load, and I don't think this saw is designed to handle it , or that it will perform well.

Philbert

 

[nstueve]

keep in mind that Dolmar and Makita are kinda one in the same now so you can go to a local Dolmar dealer and get the Orange version of the makita saw easily enough... If not I think there are about 2-4 of these makita electric saws on ebay right now...

Also I'd suggest snooping around the classifieds a bit on here. or the "trading post" as it's now called. There are always 35-50cc saws on there that people have rebuild/refurbed or ported...

 

[Philbert]

Actually as fas as I have understood it, e-saws don't have a clutch and that is the important part. No clutch = no slipping = no stopped chain. And the chain brake is nothing else but a electric switch for the motor. Chain brake activated = motor off.

7,

A great question to consider - something I had not really thought about.

It appears that the chain brake on my saw has two functions: part #54 on the attached IPL shows a brake band for the clutch, along with related springs, links, etc. On another page, there is also a small, micro-switch located next to the brake handle which cuts the power. From the owner's manual:

Note: When the chain brake is actuated the power supply to the motor will be cut off.

(Edit: The manual says that it also has inertial chain brake activation - have not tested this.)

A good marriage of Makita electric and Dolmar chainsaw engineering!

Philbert

 

[Vibes]

I don't have one of these Makitas but I was at a Christmas party some years ago. It was a really nice one put on from a company I was working for at that time. They had some guy dressed as a chef cutting an ice sculpture and he was using some Makita electric chainsaw. It was really ripping through ice. It was kinda funny because it was splashing chips all around and these other 2 guys were running around with mops. No one was paying attention but me because they didn't want to get wet.

 

[Philbert]

They had some guy dressed as a chef cutting an ice sculpture and he was using some Makita electric chainsaw.

Makita makes/has made several different models of electric chainsaws. The ones we have been discussing in this thread run around 2,600 feet per minute chain speed and draw 14.5 amps (120 volts). The 5012B model runs around 5,500 feet per minute (!), and is the model I see more ice carvers use (I live in Minnesota). It is also lighter, but only 11.5 amps, so I assume that there is a speed versus torque trade off (?) - have not used it or compared it side by side.

Makita USA - Tools - Chain Saws

Philbert

 

[7sleeper]

7,

A great question to consider - something I had not really thought about.

It appears that the chain brake on my saw has two functions: part #54 on the attached IPL shows a brake band for the clutch, along with related springs, links, etc. On another page, there is also a small, micro-switch located next to the brake handle which cuts the power. From the owner's manual:

(Edit: The manual says that it also has inertial chain brake activation - have not tested this.)

A good marriage of Makita electric and Dolmar chainsaw engineering!

Philbert

Your absolutely correct! I just checked the IPL 4030A and they also have a chain brake and the electric switch. I was only assuming it only had an electric switch because I tried to run the saw that had accidently activated the chain brake unknown to me and it wouldn't run at all. Took me a few minutes and some funny looks till it ran. :bang:

7

 

[tomandjerry00]

Thanks and almost decision time

Thanks so much for all your help everyone!! I have narrowed it between two saws, but am leaning towards the Markita 4030a.

The other saw I am thinking about is a PoulanPro 5020AV. 50cc with a 20 inch bar and tons of good reviews all for $180... I know its not a Stihl or Husky, but just how bad is PP from other's experience? I like the idea of being able to go log wood I find away from the electrical socket...

And I'd be interested in a used saw, I just don't feel comfortable distinguishing condition on gas products yet.

Thanks!

James

 

[Philbert]

As long as we are talking about electric saws . . .

My 'favorite' extension cord for use with these saws is a 100 foot long, 14 gauge, 2-wire, outdoor rated cord that I have only been able to find at one place. I can't name them, because they are not a sponsor, but they are 'where America shops'. And not on their 'softer side', but with their lawn mowers, etc.

Most people will tell you that an extension cord for outdoor use [U']has'[/U] to have 3-wires and be grounded to meet UL listings. This makes no sense when used with 2-wire, double-insulated tools. This includes my electric: lawn mower, edger, weed whacker, hedge trimmer, chain saw(s), etc., along with most of my electric woodworking tools.

The 2-wire cord is almost 50% lighter than a comparable 3-wire cord; is much more flexible; and I don't have to pay for all that extra copper.

The 100 foot length gets me to anywhere I reasonably need to go on my lot. The 14 gauge wire reduces voltage drop compared to a 16 gauge cord. The outdoor rating means that it has a smooth, double-insulated, water and oil resistant jacket that holds up to being dragged around over grass, etc., as long as it is not subject to too much abuse. I always plug into a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) at my house or garage, and have a few portable GFCI's that I can take if I am working at someone else's house to further reuce the risk of shock.

Philbert

 

[tomandjerry00]

Thanks!! Bought a saw...

Everyone,

Thanks for all of your help!! I ended up buying a PoulanPro 5020AV after reading all the reviews on this site and elsewhere. With a Husky engine and everything else it should do a good job cutting firewood and clearing while I save up for the electric. I started to realize I had some road clearing to do on our 330 acre farm so electrical wasn't gonna cut it. Almost all pine and sweet gum trees. It will only be used a couple times a month so I figured with a 2 year warranty for $180, I couldn't go too wrong. Know off to figure out which chains are best...

I did visit two of my local Stihl dealers expecting to buy a rancher and was so disappointed in the dealerships. Don't get me wrong, the saws looked beautiful, but I knew more than the guys there (and I sure don't know much...). I asked simple questions about the differences between the home owner, rancher, and pro lines and the response was "engine size and how rugged they are". When I pointed out that each line had saws of the same CC and inquired further, he had no answers and just got a catalog for me to thumb through. The first Stihl dealership I went to only had a couple small home-owner saws and didn't seem very serious. :bang:

I went to Home Depot and the guy spent 30 minutes going through nearly every saw they had in stock from the crappy Homelites (they aren't like my 40 year old one these days...) to the Ryobi's, Poulan Pro's, Makita's, and Echo's. I was very impressed with the knowledge and time HD spent with me. I had no intentions on buying it when I walked in the door, but I was sold. Gave me his name and said try it for 90 days, if you don't like it, just drain the fuel and bring it back in. Is that fully true? Probably not, but we'll see how she performs.

I'm gonna keep calling the rental departments at local HD's waiting for them to sell their used Makitas.

Thanks again,

James

 

[tomandjerry00]

Thanks

Thanks for the offer on the Husky, but I want a new saw from around here with a warranty. Gas engines make me nervous...

James

How about a Husky 440, nice sized homeowner saw, good quality nice features & they get great reviews here on AS. Matter of fact I have a new one I would ship for $220 with bar and chain.