used motor oil for bar oil

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To all the people complaining about the cancer issue...I get more used oil on me changing the oil on my truck then I do cutting. I don't know about you, but I cut in long pants/chaps, long sleeved shirt. I wear gloves, glasses and a hat...and sometimes a bandanna over my mouth. There isn't that much exposed skin for it the get on! And, it's usually being slung away from the user...and if it's not, you may have other issues!!

They probably mean in the handling from drain pan to container to chainsaw... handling the oil cap, etc. etc. More chance for contact; probably weren't thinking as much about oil coming off the chain.

Of course there are safe ways of handling it, but if something contains several known carcinogens... isn't it worth 6 bucks a gallon to limit your exposure?
 
It has been shown that research causes cancer in lab rats.

I found a sprinkler head at Home Depot that had a warning posted on it that it contained materials known to cause cancer in California. To this day I don't know if it only causes cancer in California or if that is the only place that they know it.

While I'm sure that used oil has some bad stuff in it, Ive never seen the quick lube kid wearing a haz-mat suit. When was the last time your neighborhood mechanic died of fingernail cancer from all the oil under their nails? This kind of "something is going to kill you" mentality is given to us from a bunch of sue happy layers trying to make a buck from someone's misfortune.
 
I agree it isn't healthy stuff, and I don't use it as chain lube unless it's an act of desperation.

To NOT use it just because it is a carcinogen is a bad argument...most of my fishing tackle has warnings on it...I don't believe that inhaling 2-stroke exhaust is especially healthy either...or cutting in the sun w/o sunblock....the list of unhealthy things we do is no doubt longer than the things we do that are good for us.
 
I've never used old motor oil as bar/chain oil. I don't think it would hurt a saw if the metal shavings were filtered out though. It's crazy to say motor oil would be a health risk if used in a saw since some of the people on here gets more toxins opening their wood stove to put another log on. What about eating a grilled steak with carcinogens from the gas grill? What about the preservatives in our food?
It's not like many people are actually mixing used motor oil with their gas for the saw's engine.
 
I cant see that it would hurt the saw but you know it cant be good for your bar or the oiler but to each his own just wouldnt do it myself.
 
Why use "disposed" oil in a saw when you can get better???
I can´t see my self cutting in a mist of used motor oil. If it´s not good for your engine anymore, will it be good for you?
What about the environmental factor? The woods that supply us with nice trees and heat etc. in the winter time. An old word says "Bad bird ####s in it`s own nest".
In person I use "raps olie" probably known as "canola oil" in woodcutter land.
Presents absolutely no problems in the cutting season. But it´s a fact that it will harden up if exposed to oxygen for a period of time (a couple of weeks or a month and will present a problem to your cutting equipment". But when cutting on a regular basis this could be ignored. If you know you will not be cutting for a longer period/end of season/vacation, simply fill with regular chain oil for the last couple of bar oil top ups and system will be flushed out and be preserved for next time.
As far as lubrication is concerned seed oil should be more than adequate for bar`n chain lubrication. The absense of tackifiers seems not to present a problem. Remember the chain is lubed from the inside out. There will be enough oil trapped behind the chain to travel around the nose wheel to lube the underside of the bar where the biggest pressure between bar/chain is present. Newer chains also have "lubrilink" drive links to carry oil around the nose.
Any one considered viscosityindex of the oils? Canola have an natural index of apx 155. Dino oil without viscosityindeximprovers has a natural index of 110. Canola thins less under stress IE heat.
Think this could be a controversial topic.
But none the less this is my first reply to a very interesting forum I have been watching closely for over half a year. Hope that i`ll not be blown out a here for this post.:bang:

Big hellos to everyone of you tree heads in here.
And thanks for all the educating and entertaining reading on this arboristsite.

Motorsen
 
Well I have to admit this thread really had me worried. I was scared but somehow I found the courage to go back to my wooded area,just to see all the damage that had been done by myself and others over the past thirty years or so by running motor oil in my saws for bar oil.

I know what kind of damage can occur,because I saw the results of agent orange in Nam. So I expected the worse. But to my amazement I could not find any evidence of any damage by using motor oil. I expected all the animals to be losing their hides and have worts or something. They all looked great,I just do not understand it. I checked with all the neighbors expecting a class action suit,but they also had no side effects from motor oil. I checked and rechecked,the area we did most of our bucking would be in really bad shape,so I went there and it is covered in nice grass,there was even evidence that the cows and horses were eating the grass. Now I probably won't be able to eat the meat from a heifer I am fattening up to butcher next month. But wait a minute,the beef we butchered last year ate in the same area,that is some good meat.ma-be bar oil helps tenderize the beef.

Then I decided to check some old tree stumps that were cut using motor oil. I could not believe my eyes,most had re sprouted and were growing into nice sized trees ready to get cut again. After all the hype and all the warnings my woods is vibrant.


Guys I hope you realize I am kidding with you. But in all seriousness,if you do not want to run it fine do not use it. But if other folks want to use it,it is really nobody else's business. To those of you that smoke,drink,eat to much,drive to fast,or what ever you are doing more harm then someone running motor oil.But go for it,that is your business not mine. I also checked there is no law that I can find in Pa that says I am not allowed to use it. There is a law in several states that forbids you from removing the spark screen from your muffler. How many on this forum have removed that and even posted how there saw runs better by removing it and heaven forbid they even made modes to their muffler

You know, what ever you do with your saw in my mind is your business. And what I do with mine is my business. I have several saws over 30 years old that are fine and have never failed running motor oil. My woods is in great shape,and I do not have cancer from using motor oil. I am also not a criminal for using it,and if I want I will use it again.
 
Wamp, I wasn't going down that road, and won't, I smoke too damn much to say anything about that.
I got the tongue in cheek bit for sure, but I still attest that I can't see it being good for a saw. I can't prove anything either way, and if you want to run it, be my guest, but I don't recommend it to you. That's all.
 
Great post ! Rep sent.

Why use "disposed" oil in a saw when you can get better???
I can´t see my self cutting in a mist of used motor oil. If it´s not good for your engine anymore, will it be good for you?
What about the environmental factor? The woods that supply us with nice trees and heat etc. in the winter time. An old word says "Bad bird ####s in it`s own nest".
In person I use "raps olie" probably known as "canola oil" in woodcutter land.
Presents absolutely no problems in the cutting season. But it´s a fact that it will harden up if exposed to oxygen for a period of time (a couple of weeks or a month and will present a problem to your cutting equipment". But when cutting on a regular basis this could be ignored. If you know you will not be cutting for a longer period/end of season/vacation, simply fill with regular chain oil for the last couple of bar oil top ups and system will be flushed out and be preserved for next time.
As far as lubrication is concerned seed oil should be more than adequate for bar`n chain lubrication. The absense of tackifiers seems not to present a problem. Remember the chain is lubed from the inside out. There will be enough oil trapped behind the chain to travel around the nose wheel to lube the underside of the bar where the biggest pressure between bar/chain is present. Newer chains also have "lubrilink" drive links to carry oil around the nose.
Any one considered viscosityindex of the oils? Canola have an natural index of apx 155. Dino oil without viscosityindeximprovers has a natural index of 110. Canola thins less under stress IE heat.
Think this could be a controversial topic.
But none the less this is my first reply to a very interesting forum I have been watching closely for over half a year. Hope that i`ll not be blown out a here for this post.:bang:

Big hellos to everyone of you tree heads in here.
And thanks for all the educating and entertaining reading on this arboristsite.

Motorsen
 
The way i look at it is if you want to feed that black crap to your $800 saw and do it all kinds of harm, yes it does that is a fact, then that is your problem and your trashed saw. If someone brings me a saw to my shop that has oiling problems and its all covered in black used oil goo i tell him to please take it some were else cause i wont be working on it.
 
Wamp, I wasn't going down that road, and won't, I smoke too damn much to say anything about that.
I got the tongue in cheek bit for sure, but I still attest that I can't see it being good for a saw. I can't prove anything either way, and if you want to run it, be my guest, but I don't recommend it to you. That's all.

Sawinredneck,I haven't used motor oil in over 10 years,and most likely will never use it again. I have to admit I am having a little fun with this post. I just like all the great comments,your ruining the environment,your going to get cancer,you wouldn't pour acid on your leg. It just plain gets funny after awhile. And what gets really funny is when it gets posted that the government says this. I am a patriotic American,but a lot of what the governments says or does is just so much BS.

All my new saws with pumps that are gear driven I would never put dirty oil in them. The saw I have that is 39 years old is pressure driven with out a gear drive pump that got its oil by pushing an oiler button. 39 years ago I never heard of bar oil.

But I will not tell someone else not to run motor oil if they want to,that is their business and the heck with the government.

This is the first bar oil I ever heard of and sold in my saw shop : http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/old-vintage-chainsaw-bar-chain-oilzum-oil
 
Well I have to admit this thread really had me worried. I was scared but somehow I found the courage to go back to my wooded area,just to see all the damage that had been done by myself and others over the past thirty years or so by running motor oil in my saws for bar oil.

I know what kind of damage can occur,because I saw the results of agent orange in Nam. So I expected the worse. But to my amazement I could not find any evidence of any damage by using motor oil. I expected all the animals to be losing their hides and have worts or something. They all looked great,I just do not understand it. I checked with all the neighbors expecting a class action suit,but they also had no side effects from motor oil. I checked and rechecked,the area we did most of our bucking would be in really bad shape,so I went there and it is covered in nice grass,there was even evidence that the cows and horses were eating the grass. Now I probably won't be able to eat the meat from a heifer I am fattening up to butcher next month. But wait a minute,the beef we butchered last year ate in the same area,that is some good meat.ma-be bar oil helps tenderize the beef.

Then I decided to check some old tree stumps that were cut using motor oil. I could not believe my eyes,most had re sprouted and were growing into nice sized trees ready to get cut again. After all the hype and all the warnings my woods is vibrant.


Guys I hope you realize I am kidding with you. But in all seriousness,if you do not want to run it fine do not use it. But if other folks want to use it,it is really nobody else's business. To those of you that smoke,drink,eat to much,drive to fast,or what ever you are doing more harm then someone running motor oil.But go for it,that is your business not mine. I also checked there is no law that I can find in Pa that says I am not allowed to use it. There is a law in several states that forbids you from removing the spark screen from your muffler. How many on this forum have removed that and even posted how there saw runs better by removing it and heaven forbid they even made modes to their muffler

You know, what ever you do with your saw in my mind is your business. And what I do with mine is my business. I have several saws over 30 years old that are fine and have never failed running motor oil. My woods is in great shape,and I do not have cancer from using motor oil. I am also not a criminal for using it,and if I want I will use it again.

The OP asked for opinions.
 
I know this thread is about used oil, but my dad has always used new 10w-30 in his saws, and as far as I know he's never had any oiler or bar/chain wear issues.

Used oil may be a different critter entirely. :biggrinbounce2:
 
Why use "disposed" oil in a saw when you can get better???
I can´t see my self cutting in a mist of used motor oil. If it´s not good for your engine anymore, will it be good for you?
What about the environmental factor? The woods that supply us with nice trees and heat etc. in the winter time. An old word says "Bad bird ####s in it`s own nest".
In person I use "raps olie" probably known as "canola oil" in woodcutter land.
Presents absolutely no problems in the cutting season. But it´s a fact that it will harden up if exposed to oxygen for a period of time (a couple of weeks or a month and will present a problem to your cutting equipment". But when cutting on a regular basis this could be ignored. If you know you will not be cutting for a longer period/end of season/vacation, simply fill with regular chain oil for the last couple of bar oil top ups and system will be flushed out and be preserved for next time.
As far as lubrication is concerned seed oil should be more than adequate for bar`n chain lubrication. The absense of tackifiers seems not to present a problem. Remember the chain is lubed from the inside out. There will be enough oil trapped behind the chain to travel around the nose wheel to lube the underside of the bar where the biggest pressure between bar/chain is present. Newer chains also have "lubrilink" drive links to carry oil around the nose.
Any one considered viscosityindex of the oils? Canola have an natural index of apx 155. Dino oil without viscosityindeximprovers has a natural index of 110. Canola thins less under stress IE heat.
Think this could be a controversial topic.
But none the less this is my first reply to a very interesting forum I have been watching closely for over half a year. Hope that i`ll not be blown out a here for this post.:bang:

Big hellos to everyone of you tree heads in here.
And thanks for all the educating and entertaining reading on this arboristsite.

Motorsen

Welcome to the site and congratulations on your first post. First time I've ever seen a 1 poster get rep. Thank you for doing your research and not just posting "But it causes cancer" like some are doing. Feel free to chime in any time that you have something useful to add.
 
What about the environmental factor?
Your cutting wood just to get it out of the way?

What about the environmental factor, for those of you who dar to burn said wood. Don't you relize that buring wood isn't good for the enviroment either, some lab some place has proved that.

Also why are you useing bar oil in your saws that oil is as deadly to grass and other living things as the used stuff. Just spill some on the grass or a worm and take a look latter on.

Best stuff to use is motor cycle chain lube. It sprays on in a thin stream, lubes all the links and rollers with out any throw off and will last for a whole day thru some of the deepest mud holes and sandpits you can find.

Use what you can afford, be your own judge and leave the fad stuff to the yuppies.

:D Al
 
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Read the manual...

This post has gotten a little silly.The best advice I could give would be to use what the owners manual for the saw says.Plain and simple.Read the manual.Ther manual is there for a reason.......;)
 
It really amazes me that people will pay big money for a saw and then discuss something so rediculous as putting used oil on the bar. Many do the same with cars. They buy a $30,000+ car and put cheap Wal Mart oil in it vs a good quality synthetic or something that will take care of their investment.

If you are sucker enough to pay $15 for a gallon of bar oil, then so be it, but bar oil can be had generally a couple times a year on sale at farm stores for $6 or $7 dollars a gallon.

Actual bar oil flings off badly enough. I cannot even imagine what a mess that used oil makes. The cancer, environment etc. etc. is pure nonsense unless you are bathing in the stuff, but is just another reason not to use the old oil.

I'll stick to the real thing for my use.
 
It really amazes me that people will pay big money for a saw and then discuss something so rediculous as putting used oil on the bar. Many do the same with cars. They buy a $30,000+ car and put cheap Wal Mart oil in it vs a good quality synthetic or something that will take care of their investment.

If you are sucker enough to pay $15 for a gallon of bar oil, then so be it, but bar oil can be had generally a couple times a year on sale at farm stores for $6 or $7 dollars a gallon.

Actual bar oil flings off badly enough. I cannot even imagine what a mess that used oil makes. The cancer, environment etc. etc. is pure nonsense unless you are bathing in the stuff, but is just another reason not to use the old oil.

I'll stick to the real thing for my use.
I think it's comical that people make comparisons like this.

The engine in your car is a lot more complicated, it's a larger percentage of the vehicle cost to replace it. Sure, it seems absurd to save $20 a year at the risk of a $10,000 engine replacement; but it's not quite as absurd when you start to get into the arena of saving $25 a year at the risk of a $50 bar/chain replacement or $50 for an oil pump.

For the most part, oil is oil, regular motor oil will lubricate a bar and chain just as good as b&c oil. Even without the tackifiers the parts are still being lubricated. Tackifiers don't matter a whole lot at 13,000 rpm, the oil is still slinging off the end. An oil pump will even pump regular oil just fine. Putting aside the safety/environmental arguments (which I personally don't buy into) the only thing that I would imagine may cause problems would be particulates in the oil. 99% of the particulates are small enough that they likely won't harm anything, especially the B&C. Think about it, the B&C is already covered in particulates (chips, dust, dirt, worn metal particles from one or the other etc); the addition of more particulates isn't going to make a noticeable difference because the oil isn't being recycled, it's there to lubricate the B&C for a few passes of the chain and it is then washed away by the new oil streaming in. The oil used in a chainsaw for B&C is a sacrificial oil that is used to wash away other particulates and foreign materials.

Comparing a cars engine to the B&C of chainsaw is completely ludicrous; if you really think they're a similar comparison then you clearly don't understand how one or the other, or even both of them work.
 
i can agree with that, if the oil is not going to ruin a close tolerance engine running soft lead based bearings passing by them for hours. why would it suddenly ruin a dirty hardened steel bar while it passed by for a few seconds.
 

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