Vacuum testing chainsaws

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There's supposed to be a little oring behind the collar that the seal rides on behind the oil pump. Like micro oring the diameter of a nickel. I replaced the one I just rebuilt but many on here said to put some sealer on the bottom of the collar. This is where the leak is coming from on seal leak 1 video.
Also. You should have your clutch installed and tight on the collar for everything to properly seal. It's hard to see where it's leaking at that point but necessary for everything to seal correctly.
seal 2 video is coming from around the actual seal i see. Does the seal look damaged? I'd probably replace that too since you're right there.
Thanks. I see it on the IPL. I'll see if the dealer has one.
I agree on the crank seal, I'll replace that too.

Since it's fresh for you? do the seals just drop in with a tap, or is it likely I'll need assistance from a coke can or similar?

Cheers,

Tom.
 
I used a socket just smaller than the od. Be very careful not to push it in too far.
Ok so I disobeyed you and pushed it a bit far. Was easier to punch in than I expected.
Anyway i'll order another seal and try again.

For ***** I reassembled it and it now holds pressure and vacuum perfectly.

I used high temp bearing grease on the bushing but have 2 o rings on order and will correctly reassemble once I receive everything.

Thanks for all the help.

Tom.
 
The flywheel side seal is supposed to be recessed a bit if that's the one you're talking about. The Husky installation tool itself provides a countersink. You should be ok if it's not too far in and rubbing up against the inner bearing race. There's a fair amount of space there between the seal and bearing -- relatively speaking.

0125181918_resized.jpg
PTO side is straightforward and should be about flush. I use a washer under a socket for the fit. The micro 'O' ring goes up against the inner bearing race under the bushing with the thrust washer on top. I only mention this because I've seen them wrapped around the bushing where they don't do anything except maybe pass a one time leak test then disintegrate. Between the bushing and the bearing is where the seal is made.

0126181332_resized.jpg

 
The flywheel side seal is supposed to be recessed a bit if that's the one you're talking about. The Husky installation tool itself provides a countersink. You should be ok if it's not too far in and rubbing up against the inner bearing race. There's a fair amount of space there between the seal and bearing -- relatively speaking.

PTO side is straightforward and should be about flush. I use a washer under a socket for the fit. The micro 'O' ring goes up against the inner bearing race under the bushing with the thrust washer on top. I only mention this because I've seen them wrapped around the bushing where they don't do anything except maybe pass a one time leak test then disintegrate. Between the bushing and the bearing is where the seal is made.

Thanks for the tip about the washer. I'll use that when the o ring turns up.

From your picture the PTO seal looks slightly recessed. Hard to tell for sure.

So the procedure is to install oil seal, bushing, then o ring slides down over the bushing then washer last?

Tom.
 
Thanks for the tip about the washer. I'll use that when the o ring turns up.

From your picture the PTO seal looks slightly recessed. Hard to tell for sure.

So the procedure is to install oil seal, bushing, then o ring slides down over the bushing then washer last?

Tom.
No.
Seal first
Then O ring
Sleeve
Washer

Twist the sleeve as you install it into the seal or you’ll roll the lip in
 
The PTO seal is slightly recessed. I only used a socket (w/o a washer on this one) and had to adjust slightly for a bit of unevenness in the bore.

The 'O' ring down over the crank and up against the inner bearing race can actually go on before the oil seal. It's easier that way. too, since the seal isn't in the way. A smudge of grease is a good idea at the bearing. The important part is that the 'O' ring is between the bottom of the bushing and the bearing, not around the outside of the bushing. The thrust washer is last (if it has one) for the oil pump drive arm to ride on instead of riding up against the seal.
 
The PTO seal is slightly recessed. I only used a socket (w/o a washer on this one) and had to adjust slightly for a bit of unevenness in the bore.

The 'O' ring down over the crank and up against the inner bearing race can actually go on before the oil seal. It's easier that way. too, since the seal isn't in the way. A smudge of grease is a good idea at the bearing. The important part is that the 'O' ring is between the bottom of the bushing and the bearing, not around the outside of the bushing. The thrust washer is last (if it has one) for the oil pump drive arm to ride on instead of riding up against the seal.
All makes sense. Good stuff
 
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