vermeer sc252

[fullchisel]

need some ideas on how to remove the pivot pin the one under the machine. i tried pounding it out with a sledge hammer and it wont move heated it up also,tried tightening the nut up more hoping it would spin it but no luck. any ideas would be appreciated

 

[equipmentguru]

Do you have the weight of the engine/cutter wheel main frame supported?

 

[fullchisel]

Do you have the weight of the engine/cutter wheel main frame supported?

yes i do

 

[stumper63]

Don't quite know what to say, I did mine a couple of winters ago, it came right out, bushings tapped right out too. Had everything supported like mentioned above so no weight on the pivot to speak of. Dumb question to ask, u sure you got the bolt that goes throught the shaft on the opposite end as the nut out? Hard to believe that with an almost 1.5" nut you can't get enough leverage to spin that shaft to free it.

I would soak it a few times with penetrating oil and let it set a day or two. Last resort get a few sawzall blades and slip the blad between the frame and ears of that yoke and cut it into three pieces. Would seem that would release any binding, and tap out the pieces.

Stumper63

 

[Plyscamp]

Mine was siezed like yours. No matter what I tried it would not budge. Even tried and air hammer with no luck. I finally used a 7" cutt off wheel on a 7" right angle grinder and did what stumper63 suggested you due with a sawsall. Once it was cutt into 3 pieces it came right out.

 

[equipmentguru]

Sometimes a pin can wear a have a lip from the wear which prevents it from coming out. Try rotating the pin and trying to drive it out. I would think turning it 180 degrees would be a good start. With the cutter wheel supported keep lowering the cutting wheel to take a little weight off the tires. That should help take most of the weight off the pin. But don't lift the tires off the ground.

 

[fullchisel]

Don't quite know what to say, I did mine a couple of winters ago, it came right out, bushings tapped right out too. Had everything supported like mentioned above so no weight on the pivot to speak of. Dumb question to ask, u sure you got the bolt that goes throught the shaft on the opposite end as the nut out? Hard to believe that with an almost 1.5" nut you can't get enough leverage to spin that shaft to free it.

I would soak it a few times with penetrating oil and let it set a day or two. Last resort get a few sawzall blades and slip the blad between the frame and ears of that yoke and cut it into three pieces. Would seem that would release any binding, and tap out the pieces.

Stumper63

yes that bolt was removed. it wont spin free for nothing as a last resort i will try cutting it.

 

[fullchisel]

Sometimes a pin can wear a have a lip from the wear which prevents it from coming out. Try rotating the pin and trying to drive it out. I would think turning it 180 degrees would be a good start. With the cutter wheel supported keep lowering the cutting wheel to take a little weight off the tires. That should help take most of the weight off the pin. But don't lift the tires off the ground.

it wont rotate at all. i will lower the cutter wheel and try that.

 

[robertjinnes]

SC252 shaft removal

There is another thread with this exact issue. As indicated, you need to neutralize the weight on the shaft or it will be nearly impossible to remove. An engine lift and hydraulic jack are a good combo.Even with neutralized weight, I ended up cutting the welds and splitting the collars to remove the collars off both sides of the frame. This exposed the ends of the shaft. The side plat of the frame have salightly larger clearance holes and allowed the shaft to come out. As previously indicated, the shaft is probably either worn or has rust thru the chrome. Mine was scrap. A good place to get a replacement shaft is a hydraulic shop. Shaft cost me approx $1.00 per inch. The plastic bushings will need to be replaced and are relatively inexpensive directly from Vermeer. You can cut them with a long sawzaw or similar. They slip right out then. When reinstalling, if they just slip in, I recommend using some hiugh strength epoxy to bond tem in after removing rust. To replace the steel collars, I used shaft collars and welded them back in place. Check the left/right cylinder bushings, you'll probably find them bad as well.

Good luck bob The Treeman.

 

[equipmentguru]

When you do get it out make sure you put antiseize on the new pin. That might make it easier the next time.