Well, they have made a few design changes to the present-day version of this stove, and I imagine this has been for the better. On the new version as your picture shows,
(1) there is no lower side intake for convection air below the loading door.
(2) the convection air exhaust at the top is one continuous slot.
(3) the removable hot plate on top is much larger.
(4) the front door is a single piece.
(5) hardware controls are different.
However, it would appear that not much else has changed. The legs are stronger than they look. I see where you were concerned about that.
Also, be aware that the secret to this stove's success and efficiency is successful secondary combustion in that top chamber, all made possible by a heavy block off damper plate near the top rear that is pivoted using a mechanism that you control just above the side loading door. That should be closed after the flue temp reaches about 400 F or so. It is not closed automatically, nor is it opened automatically. When closed, the secondary exhaust gas temp will go right up. I find that 1000 to 1200 F is ideal.
Prior to starting the fire and whenever you open the loading door to add fuel, you must open that block off plate to send exhaust through the primary flue. Otherwise, you will get a puff of smoke in the house. After awhile, this becomes routine, but it takes a bit of getting used to.
This stove has a double-wall back, and it is the inside wall that I eventually had to replace after 21 years. The flue collar lasted 22 years. To me, replacing these parts was trivial. The swiveling shaker grate mechanism above the ash pan operates flawlessly today and I don't even see signs of wear. How they did that I will never know--pure quality design I guess.
I seldom rely on this stove burning longer than 9 hours on a single load. It can be done, but I prefer to add fuel every six hours and to not throttle it down. You will eventually find an ideal air intake setting for your installation and draft conditions. The air intake control flexibility is huge.
As with many stoves, mixed hardwoods provide the best fires. I burn ash, oak, elm, maple, mulberry, locust, and a few others. Combinations always work the best rather than just one species. Mixing different sized logs also works better--the smaller ones help the big ones stay hot. When reloading, I try to throw in three or four logs rather than just one. This stove loves that procedure, and that's another reason why I nicknamed it "Jaws".