Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Since Poulan is now owned by Husqvarna, all the plastic parts have the husky logo on them. My older 2775 has none of that. These saws are part of the Poulan P600 family saws - it's a Poulan design.
Want a 14" Limbing/Demolition saw
- Thread starter FlyingDutchman
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I found by accident that mine were loose even though there were no symptoms, and luckily no damage. I check them now.
bikemike
loud pipes save lives
The poulans are knock off of the husky 1// series home owner saws i have a 136 36cc husky that is the small version of my 46cc poulan pp4620avx
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
No, those are Poulans too. Both are part of the P600 project but the Huskys got a different chassis.
Chris-PA you nailed it. My antivibe springs broke on the Sears/Poulan. I fixed the carb plate screws (again) (mid-work day) which took me quite awhile, then broke an antivibe spring in the first cut. Then had pieces fly off of the recoil while trying to drop start it to finish the cut. And now it has peed all of its bar oil in one spot and all the fuel out in another spot on the basement floor because someone moved it and set it on the wrong side. Its just time to retire this saw...
I got a Menard's card and was shopping on a big rebate sale for my house project, and almost bought an earthquake, there is just something that scares me about them. They had a Hitachi saw there I liked a ton on super sale, but the .325 pitch killed that.
My Stihl dealer 2 mi down the road agreed to order me an MS 180 power head only which would be around $200 out the door. If I can find the right bar, they said, might be able to run the .050 s52 chain. The MS180 runs .043 50dl chain also in 3/8 pitch, so the DL and the gauge requirements are modified by the bar. Anyone know if there is an aftermarket bar that will make that work? Or whether the end result would survive?
But with about 10cc less I don't think I'll have the grunt with a heavier gauge chain and way less power than the Sears.
Its looking more and more like the Echo wins, I just love the idea of the "pocket pro saw".
I got a Menard's card and was shopping on a big rebate sale for my house project, and almost bought an earthquake, there is just something that scares me about them. They had a Hitachi saw there I liked a ton on super sale, but the .325 pitch killed that.
My Stihl dealer 2 mi down the road agreed to order me an MS 180 power head only which would be around $200 out the door. If I can find the right bar, they said, might be able to run the .050 s52 chain. The MS180 runs .043 50dl chain also in 3/8 pitch, so the DL and the gauge requirements are modified by the bar. Anyone know if there is an aftermarket bar that will make that work? Or whether the end result would survive?
But with about 10cc less I don't think I'll have the grunt with a heavier gauge chain and way less power than the Sears.
Its looking more and more like the Echo wins, I just love the idea of the "pocket pro saw".
ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
I'm not sure on the saws, but the couple edgers I've worked on were good quality. Made in Italy.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Sounds like yours had more issues than mine. I had problems with the engine bolts, the rear A/V spring and the exhaust deflector that wraps around the muffler outlet on the Type1 models. The deflector broke off and the exhaust melted the chain brake handle. With those things fixed and a bit of care to avoid stressing the A/V system it's been quite reliable. It really cuts well too, although it had trouble with really hard hickory running 20BPX semi chisel chain. I think the saw was too light to get a good bite.
Chris, I think the constant WOT drop starts from the poor idle and the carb plate screw issue probably killed it worse than anything. The av spring by the top handle broken.
I just got really bad news on my house project I'm working on I'm $10000 over budget due to a contractors horrid billing practices. My truck just broke down again. Looks like I'll be buying an AV spring.
I just got really bad news on my house project I'm working on I'm $10000 over budget due to a contractors horrid billing practices. My truck just broke down again. Looks like I'll be buying an AV spring.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
I sympathize - the unplanned expenses just seem to keep pouring in, while the cost of basic essentials just keeps climbing. Everything goes up except the income.
Chris... Isn't that the truth. My house was caving in from a bad foundation. But... According to the bank I make enough money to pay my bills and rebuild my house so here we are no money for beer or chainsaws.
have been trying when time permits to find cheap ways to fix the saws I have.
My Echo Cs280e has a stripped bar stud. Ive called every Echo dealer in the area, they all go on the computer and say its discontinued. Nobody stocks "bar studs" I can compare to. The case is aluminum and the bar stud holes have been kina drilled and jacked with so I'm looking for a bigger diameter thread bar stud set that will fit a sears/poulan/echo bar, so I can drill, tap and stainless helicoil it (dad says this is the best way to seat something in aluminum.) Echo's comparable top handle is almost $500 and about 1lb heavier, and its my first chainsaw. IMO worth messing with.
I also have a Jonsered Pro35 that has a 1/4" pitch carving setup on it. The sprockets and tensioner looked identical from the Jred to Echo. I figured I could swap clutch drums and get the proper 3/8 pitch to run the 14" bar on the Jred. The echo extremely similar except the drum is like 1/32nd bigger and won't fit inside the jred brake band. A 3/8 pitch drum is over $20 and I really don't want the saw for anything but carving, parts are hard to find, beating the **** out of it in the jungle seems senseless.
The local Poulan/Sears parts collector guy is almost impossible to actually meet up with. I'm going to load all of my saws I don't want to fix in my car, and when he finally can meet I can trade for all the parts I'll ever need to keep the sears alive for $0...
have been trying when time permits to find cheap ways to fix the saws I have.
My Echo Cs280e has a stripped bar stud. Ive called every Echo dealer in the area, they all go on the computer and say its discontinued. Nobody stocks "bar studs" I can compare to. The case is aluminum and the bar stud holes have been kina drilled and jacked with so I'm looking for a bigger diameter thread bar stud set that will fit a sears/poulan/echo bar, so I can drill, tap and stainless helicoil it (dad says this is the best way to seat something in aluminum.) Echo's comparable top handle is almost $500 and about 1lb heavier, and its my first chainsaw. IMO worth messing with.
I also have a Jonsered Pro35 that has a 1/4" pitch carving setup on it. The sprockets and tensioner looked identical from the Jred to Echo. I figured I could swap clutch drums and get the proper 3/8 pitch to run the 14" bar on the Jred. The echo extremely similar except the drum is like 1/32nd bigger and won't fit inside the jred brake band. A 3/8 pitch drum is over $20 and I really don't want the saw for anything but carving, parts are hard to find, beating the **** out of it in the jungle seems senseless.
The local Poulan/Sears parts collector guy is almost impossible to actually meet up with. I'm going to load all of my saws I don't want to fix in my car, and when he finally can meet I can trade for all the parts I'll ever need to keep the sears alive for $0...
Well it happened. My parents got me a CS400 for my birthday. Before you make fun I help them cut almost all their wood, among other things, and my dad smashed up the tailgate on the truck.
First thing I did was touch up my crummy 14" Oregon bar with a file which took two hours, it was real bad.
So far, its everything I hoped it would be. Starts easy, is actually lighter than the Sears, and has good throttle response, and breaks are really far apart, because it seems to run on no fuel whatsoever. I'm not sure how many tanks of fuel it takes to get broken in, but I have run six tanks. It doesn't seem like it could handle an 18" bar.
The tensioner is just as cheesy as everyone says, but I think with some care, it will last just fine.
My dad also loves the saw.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions! New iron feels good.
First thing I did was touch up my crummy 14" Oregon bar with a file which took two hours, it was real bad.
So far, its everything I hoped it would be. Starts easy, is actually lighter than the Sears, and has good throttle response, and breaks are really far apart, because it seems to run on no fuel whatsoever. I'm not sure how many tanks of fuel it takes to get broken in, but I have run six tanks. It doesn't seem like it could handle an 18" bar.
The tensioner is just as cheesy as everyone says, but I think with some care, it will last just fine.
My dad also loves the saw.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions! New iron feels good.
Attachments
I'd look around for a real nice Poulan 25DA. There are still nice ones out there, I see them every couple of weeks when I go saw hunting.
I'm so far very happy with the CS400. Its light, powerful, reliable, efficient, comfortable to operate, doesn't leak, still has bucking spikes for the bigger pieces, and its easy to start. With the 14" bar it has plenty of power in the cut without a modded muffler. I can operate it with a very high level of confidence and can work more efficiently. The local farm store has service parts, Walmart has chains, the bar nuts are interchangeable with my husky 460. The amount of time I spend dinking around with saws has gone to near zero and WAY more work gets done.
Just thought I would report back after a long absence.
Just thought I would report back after a long absence.
