Wanted: Wooden Chip Box pics

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Brendonv

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Jan 26, 2005
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Location
Seymour Connecticut
I am planning on building a small chipbox for the back of my toyota flatbed (yes i know a toyota, but it serves me well) anyone have any pics of their wooden chip boxes? i need ideas on how to brace is correctly so the sides and top arent so floppy.
 
If you've got a tacoma, FORGET it. its about as worthy of hauling chips as an S10. If you've got a tundra, you're a little better off. I would personally go with a Ford F450 with dump bed.
 
its a small truck, i know, I'm not using the box for chips, i want to make it to hold more brush easier since i am just starting to do pruning and tree work... but i dont know how to brace it so that the sides and top are sturdy
 
http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment_11614.php , http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment_11613.php ,
Hope these help for you. Gonna be tough to build sturdy sides of plywood without putting a top on it. The roof helps support the sides. My bottom rails were 2x3's , the rest of the framework was 2x2's. I think I used just half inch plywood, but i made sure to silicone calk all corners and seams, and coated with good paint, to make the wood last. The whole top bolts down just like a regular truck bed topper.
 
I used pressure treated lumber for my chip dump boxes, found that it lasted longer and did not need painting. Cost a bit more up front but worth it later on. Just an idea.
 
Rock and roll there, Brendon. Everybody's gotta start somewhere. If that's all you need for now then go for it. But, a 'lil bigger will serve you well.
 
Brendon, If you are hauling brush instead of chips then don't bother with a box. -A stakebed is the way to go. You can throw a low side rail around for neatness but stakes will keep the brush in and make loading and unloading easier.
 
i have a set of sides right now that are pretty small...how tall should i make them? should there be gaps in between the wood going up? and i have 3 stake pockets as you can see from the picture, but if i go tall with the sides then they will flop like crazy, how could i get them to stand straight up and not move on an agle side to side so much? thats why i was just gonna go with a box because it would rigid from the top...
 
You don't really need full sides, the 3 to 4 foot stakes should hold the brush in, just fine. Of course, you will need to trim the sides and tie it down before hitting the road.
 
If you go with the stake sides, just keep a couple of rachet straps around. Once you have your load in there, just tie the sides together with a strap and you should be fine.
 
My very first employment as a treeguy was almost identical. Bossman provided me a flatbed and said, "Go get em." He sent me out alone.

I learned very quickly to relief-cut where there's a major fork so that the limb will collapse more linearly. And not to stack the brush on the truck one stick at a time. Relief cut and stack wherever the drop zone is, into a huggable pile not too heavy that you can't carry. Stomp on it to compress as best you can. From there, drag, or hug-carry or get er up on your shoulder, the key being tight, linear bundles.

An additional trick that served me well was to put two wrist-diameter straight (or slightly curved) sticks across the middle of the bed of the truck, spaced about shoulder width. They should be long enough to <i>just</i> overhang both sides of the bed. Then lay a strap with (ideally) a cam buckle across the bed, right between the crossmembers. Now, you're ready to load.

Some of your 'bundles' should face cut-ends forward, some should be loaded cut-ends facing back. This keeps your load balanced. Don't dice branches and limbs into shorts; keep them as long as possible.

Once you think you have a full load, flip the strap over the pile and attach to the locking cam. Take the tail of the strap, get up on top of the pile. Pull UP on the strap as you jump up and DOWN on the pile, tensioning that sucker as best you can. You'll find you only have a half to 2/3 of the load you thought you had.

The cross-members are for offing the huge heap. Step between them, deep knee bend, grab, lift with your legs, the entire pile will roll off the side (if you've removed the stakes). Jump off, retrieve your cam strap and you're outta there.

You have a very simple system. The beauty of that is low overhead cost, low maintenence, small storage site (your driveway) low insurance on equipment, meaning your profit margin can be higher on a per job basis if you do it right. I did your system for a year, then upgraded to a beefed-up small utility trailer for another <i>four years</i>. Currently I have a simple system, still based on a flatbed pickup, but I have a killer bomb little 6" chipper, making my job easier, but with that comes increased overhead and operating expenses. My daily takehome, interestingly, is very much the same as when i was stacking brush. Now work on your aerial talents and customer service. Get liability insurance as soon as you can. Clients will tend to not ask the big guys for certifcates because it's almost assumed they have insurance. With your rig, its almost assumed you <i>don't</i>. Get insurance, carry it with you, cross that threshold and play the game. I'ts not how pretty you are; it's ultimately about how well you care for the trees. Keep that focus, and good luck.
 
About the whole insurance thing, would it be smart just to wait a little to get insurance since I dont know if it would be successful? I dont want to jump into insurance and then have 2 customers a year ya know? What are your guys thoughts?
 
It will only take one uninsured accident to make sure that you won't be successful. Its a necessary business expense in our sue-happy world.
 
Yea, what Newf said.

Do you want to be a tree care professional or not? If you do, you will not have a problem getting jobs. You'll get jobs by virtue of simply being out there, wearing proper PPE and climbing with safety and conviction. I get more people walking up to me simply because I wear protective equipment and a big fat smile. Many people also tell me they want me to work for them because I lay out big tarps in the drop zone. This is like a giant banner flag out front that says "I care about your cleanup!" which is really important to a lot of people.

Insurance is for your protection, and theirs. Your insurance cost for the year will be covered in probably two decent average jobs and will allow you the mental advantage to do treecare estimates with a greater feeeling of authority. Without insurance, you're sort of skirting the shadows of the treecare industry. When someone asks you for your certificate (and they will), being able to truthfully say "Yes, yes I do. Thanks for asking.", and hand them a certificate, this allows you to stand tall amongst the big dogs, no matter how small you are.

I worked for a year and a half without insurance and from experience I can tell you, the <i>feeling</i> is different. Back then, when asked for insurance, I felt ashamed. Now I wish more people would ask. Your confidence level will be a whole lot improved and you can get on with growing your business. Insurance is not a necessary evil. It's just necessary.
 
What about the whole registered business thing and insurance. Could you just have insurance and no business name? What are the expenses with have your business registered? Anyone care to explain how that all works?
 
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