Well, I've done it.. part II

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My place of employment just bought two new radial drill presses like this one:


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Made in Taiwan. Over $40,000 each. Pieces of junk IMHO. The presses they are replacing are 40+ year old Rabomas made in Germany. I'll bet these things don't go 10 years without needing major work. Why?

Because they were not made in Germany....:cheers:
 
My place of employment just bought two new radial drill presses like this one:


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Made in Taiwan. Over $40,000 each. Pieces of junk IMHO. The presses they are replacing are 40+ year old Rabomas made in Germany. I'll bet these things don't go 10 years without needing major work. Why?

Any reasons for your assessment besides country of origin?
 
It was ported.

If you had bought the parts from me, modified them, put them together and had a failure at the point of modification, Id be hesistant to offer an assist on repairs.

If it was stock, untouched, that is a totally different story.
 
yes.. if you ported it, Baileys has no obligation, nor should they have...

If you took an OEM, ported it and it died, same deal...

Sorry, you're likely on your own... whether it was a problem with your work or not.
 
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Any reasons for your assessment besides country of origin?

Sure enough. Screws cross threaded, castings extremely rough or insufficient, no waterproofing around disconnects(460V)!!!, leaking oil from the spindle seal at first use, no lube pumped to arm ways, I'm sure there is more...
 
Sure enough. Screws cross threaded, castings extremely rough or insufficient, no waterproofing around disconnects(460V)!!!, leaking oil from the spindle seal at first use, no lube pumped to arm ways, I'm sure there is more...

The "next" model will be better:greenchainsaw:

Frigg.... :bang:
 
Sure enough. Screws cross threaded, castings extremely rough or insufficient, no waterproofing around disconnects(460V)!!!, leaking oil from the spindle seal at first use, no lube pumped to arm ways, I'm sure there is more...

For a $40,000 tool, I would have been demanding those issues rectified I think.
 
Metallurgy? Probable failure resulting from a bad batch of 1980's K-Cars they melted down....

Shut up Andy... :bang:


Ok, I'm finshed for now.

The legendary K-Car...........Ah yes. A notable moment in American engineering history.........what a lovely thought, cheap tin and plastic recycled into piston rings, definitely the stuff of which legends are built.

Did the BB kits come from the "Power Horse" factory?
 
Guess you've never used any machining tools from Taiwan... Even the best BP clones (like Sharp) don't last in a production environment. And don't even get me started on the parts issues...


I have used a few chinese tools even the 'name brand' tools, never used one that I liked or thought was as good as the american made craftsman tools I have. do not like chinese stuff as a general rule. I'll be in the corner with Andy and the others.
 
Porting

Without looking at the actual parts, perhaps the piston was made with a lower % of silicon. Therefore it tended to expand more than a stock piston. From the pictures I can't see that the ring fractured and rolled down the clyinder or that it hooked a port. From the limited information it looks like the piston may have expanded with heat, seized metal on the cylinder which then fractured the weaker grooved rings. The lower ring being the most beat up seems to support that theory.

Why hasn't anyone commented on the flow patterns on top of the piston? Again I don't have the cylinder in front of me, but it appears that the transfer port on the right side was angled a bit higher and being pushed up by the left side which caused a turbulence that curled the right transfer port towards the exhaust port. Granted, it didn't cause the seizure, but that kind of flow pattern isn't exactly conducive to good power.

If you ported those transfers, you should have noticed the pattern the first time you pulled the engine apart. If you didn't port the transfers, then that is a crap cylinder.

OK, I'm a new guy, I'll shut up now.
 
Case dissmissed.

Rings more than likley got hung on a port which was not chamfered enough, snagged, broke and continued to destroy your kit. I have never done this before...:dizzy:

I still think BB kits are crap.

Well, In my defense, the ring cought the bottom of the exhaust port which still had original chamfer left.
 
Without looking at the actual parts, perhaps the piston was made with a lower % of silicon. Therefore it tended to expand more than a stock piston. From the pictures I can't see that the ring fractured and rolled down the clyinder or that it hooked a port. From the limited information it looks like the piston may have expanded with heat, seized metal on the cylinder which then fractured the weaker grooved rings. The lower ring being the most beat up seems to support that theory.

Why hasn't anyone commented on the flow patterns on top of the piston? Again I don't have the cylinder in front of me, but it appears that the transfer port on the right side was angled a bit higher and being pushed up by the left side which caused a turbulence that curled the right transfer port towards the exhaust port. Granted, it didn't cause the seizure, but that kind of flow pattern isn't exactly conducive to good power.

If you ported those transfers, you should have noticed the pattern the first time you pulled the engine apart. If you didn't port the transfers, then that is a crap cylinder.

OK, I'm a new guy, I'll shut up now.

The upper transfer was left alone until post break in. The swirl pattern was from the original untouched transfer ports. Didn''t even think about that until now. Thanks.
 
Like I said earlier, I was very happy the way the BB kit came out. I wouldn't blame Bailey's if they don't honor a ported kit. :cheers:

I do feel the ring failed due to something else other then snagging the port chamfer. The ring did not get slammed into the piston when failed but rather broke and were rejected to the muffler. I got a snagged ring piston to compare here, may be I'll post it up later.
 
I hope there's room in the corner for one more.

I've seen numerous threads about the rebuild of a Stihl saw with aftermarket pistons and cylinders. I cringe at the thought of these saw re-entering the marketplace as bone fide Stihl machines although they knowingly have non-Stihl hard parts in them. Were I to buy a Stihl (or Huky, Johnny Red or other premium brand) equipment, I would expect it to be of OE parts.

There's an expected quality that comes with the nameplate - installing "value-priced" parts and expecting premium name-brand service life or perfromance boggles my mind.

When and if the OPE aftermarket matures to that of the automotive world (where companies have proven track records that rival or exceed OE), I'll change my stance - but for now, I'll not accept a major hard part coming in a plain brown wrapper, so to speak.

Sorry to hear of your woes, for sure.
 
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