What falling cut do you use for tall skinny trees?

[zwoehr]

I have a bunch of 4-12" fir trees to remove. On the bigger ones i can use a traditional directional notch and backcut. I have been using a 2x4 to jill poke them over since a wedge bottoms out before it lifts the tree. The really skinny ones are kind of a problem.

I'm trying to figure out a safe way to control the direction of the fall, hopefully something that can be done with one person. What techniques do you guys use?

 

[JRoland]

Get a throw ball and put a line in them. It won't take much tension with a rope come a long or even just a hitch with a carabiner and a strap around a fixed object to get them leaning the direction you want them to go.

 

[Creeker]

Taking as given - trees close to vertical and evenly weighted in the head - normal cuts on direction of fall up to 30% dia, back cut to teetering, retain hingewood, put saw in left hand and push over with right. I think you need to have the dual cuts in direction of fall to give tree something to fall into as it goes out of vertical.
Referring to - " The really skinny ones are kind of a problem." ( ie I'm guessing the 4" - 5" dia size.)
Just what I'd try, have to see how it went.
Above posts also worth considering but a bit slower if they can be manhandled.

 

[Trx250r180]

If a small tree needs a wedge to go where you want it ,make the back cut first pound the wedge in ,then make the face,but leave enough hinge to fall the tree with the wedge.

 

[BC WetCoast]

For the small ones, 4-8", just make your notch and back cut, then push them over. Unless they have a large lean, they'll stand there long enough for you to begin pushing. Sometimes, I'll get the groundie to push or pull with a pole pruner - faster than setting a rope.

Above 8" you can use a wedge or rope. Definitely by 12" I'd be wanting to use a wedge.

 

[dor-moor hands]

Buy some of the short 5" wedges. If one won't give you enough lift stack up two.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Tongue and groove is fun. There's a couple good YouTube videos.

 

[zwoehr]

Tongue and groove is fun. There's a couple good YouTube videos.

Interesting I was actually thinking about trying to do that with the bore cut through the directional notch. Looks like a good way to do it by yourself when you can't have your helper pushing on the tree. Kind of time consuming to set up though.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Not really. Shallow notch, bore the face, set the wedge, make your coos bay t cuts, pound the wedge.

 

[zwoehr]

Not really. Shallow notch, bore the face, set the wedge, make your coos bay t cuts, pound the wedge.

I'm a foreman for a production based construction company. So I always think our things in that context. Where if something takes a couple of seconds longer it's no big deal, until you do it a couple of thousand times.
In this case safety and control have to outweigh maximum productivity.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Bucking, limping and processing take the time. Widowmakers and hung trees take time. A few extra seconds making sure the tree goes where you want it is always time well spent