Stihl 028 AV Super from 1987. Just keep a scary sharp chain on a 16 inch bar. New plug every few years, Keep the air filter clean and run good oil and gas. You can give it to your first born. A simple muffler mod will give it a little more pep.
What is the all time best chainsaw
- Thread starter donmakesallthefuelbegone
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
promechanic
ArboristSite Lurker
The 028 is a classic. Built like a tank, and will hold it's own against more modern saws all day long. Same with the Mac 10-10. Both should be on the list of best all- around chainsaws of all time.
donmakesallthefuelbegone
ArboristSite Member
I got one of those for sale near me, the only problem is that where I live fuel is fuel so I don’t know where to get good fuel, I also don’t have the money to buy premix, I have been thinking about buying that one but the problem with old second hand saws is that they are even more risky than newer second hand ones
For what application?
Stihl 028's a OK, as are Husqvarna 55's, espeically the closed-port variety are awesome little saws.
I saw Mac 10-10's mentioned, NOT a big fan of those even though that they are built like tanks. WAY too loud, slow, and mediocre ergonomics/anti-vibe, but if you have double hearing protection and some thick gloves they do OK.
Even with all that said go back to one of my earlier comments about parts availablity. There is little to none for many of those older saws and most will be closer to the end of their life cycle than the beginning.
Here, when it comes to this sort of thing, just like the vehicles I purchase for my own use I'd much rather wear out the first half of them than the second half......FWIW......
I saw Mac 10-10's mentioned, NOT a big fan of those even though that they are built like tanks. WAY too loud, slow, and mediocre ergonomics/anti-vibe, but if you have double hearing protection and some thick gloves they do OK.
Even with all that said go back to one of my earlier comments about parts availablity. There is little to none for many of those older saws and most will be closer to the end of their life cycle than the beginning.
Here, when it comes to this sort of thing, just like the vehicles I purchase for my own use I'd much rather wear out the first half of them than the second half......FWIW......
PS: you'll hear all sorts of old relics mentioned on these threads. Reminds me of the last Partner saw I had brought to the shop shorter before I retired. Absolutely NOTHING readily available for it, let alone the air filter that it desperately needed. Actually a pretty nice saw otherwise with excellent compression and only needed a carb kit, fuel line and tank cleaned out to go right back in service. It's owner also brought in an Amish saw shop-cannibilized Husqvarna 394 (pretty sure that's what it was) sporting the wrong P/C, intake and a few other related parts in a failed attempt to keep it in service. Then there was the Partner cut-off saw with a busted P/C and absolutely NOTHING available for it at any price that I had to hand back to the new ower who just grabbed it from an Estate sale thinking he found the holy grail.......and the list goes on and on and on and on......
JoshNY
ArboristSite Operative
For a general purpose saw, I'd say either a Husky 372xp or a Stihl MS440.
I have China clones of both and like them. I feel like the 372xp is a little better balanced and has better anti vibe, but I like running both of them.
Good power to run a 24" bar and parts are readily available.
I have China clones of both and like them. I feel like the 372xp is a little better balanced and has better anti vibe, but I like running both of them.
Good power to run a 24" bar and parts are readily available.
PJwoodcutter
ArboristSite Lurker
If I were you, I would save my money and get a new saw. If your plan is to make a living using it the overall frustration saved would be worth it to me. Sure you might pick up a gem of a used saw but if its a pro saw chances are it has been well used/abused. I would be looking at the 562xp mkII or ms 400. Either one of those wood take care all of your needs unless you get into larger trees and if you get into climbing and topping you will want a good top handle saw sometime. Yes they will be more money than a used saw but you will get warranties and service from the dealer if any problems arise. At least thats how it works in the US. I think your overall user experience will be much better using new tech/anti-vibe systems as well. Most of the time a gently used pro-saw (Husqvarna or Stihl) is going to be priced like a new one anyway. And if it isnt I would be leery of it. As some have already said parts availability for some of the "classics" are getting very hard to get. Just my opinion so take it for what its worth.
altatim
ArboristSite Operative
I also would say buy new if you can and get the right saw for the job. If you won't be cutting anything (or rarely cutting) over 32" then you can get a 70-90 cc saw, if you are cutting under 25", get a good 50-60cc saw (ms400c, 562xp, ms261, 550xp). While it might feel cool to own a 90cc saw, but if you aren't cutting big timber its just not the right tool for the job.
donmakesallthefuelbegone
ArboristSite Member
Basically for everything on the ground, I don’t plans to climb with it but it needs to basically be a Jack of all trades. I understand that wanting 1 saw to do everything will mean it’s not the best at most things because there will be compromises but I just want 1 saw that’ll do everything from falling the tree to having the wood and brush cut to size.
No milling and no climbing but further I basically wanna be able to grab the saw without thinking, just knowing that it’ll take whatever I put it on
A 462 with a 18” and a 25” bar is a good balance of power, weight, decent filtration and reliablity.
The 500i is a contender, but when you consider that when parts need replacing it gets expensive, it’s essentially the same price as a 661 and they’re very similar to a 462 up to 25 inch bars it’s not really worth it.
Running anything longer on a 500i than 25” is a slog, both on the oiler, balance and lack of power too.
That’s not a hit on the 500i, it’s an incredible saw, but when you get past the zippy throttle and slim profile, you better be willing to go to the dealer for support at every turn and have deep pockets - not so with the 462.
This is presuming you’re in the USA or Canada?
If you’re in Australia Id say get 2 saws. 50cc with 16” and 90cc with 25”
I don’t see any real advantage for most people of a saw between the two, below a 50cc or above 90 unless you’re doing very specific work.
In the Uk and Europe a ms 261 w/ 18” bar or ms362 w/20” bar will cover most anything you’ll come across.
donmakesallthefuelbegone
ArboristSite Member
I live in Europe, I do think you’re forgetting about some of the willows we have here, those can grow pretty wide. We generally don’t have a lot of big trees indeed but some species can grow fairly wide. I do think a 362 gets one of them down but I think more power will be better on them bigger trees. Granted as a fairly inexperienced guy I don’t think I’ll get a lot of very wide trees lol
Do you consider felling/limbing/bucking trees 'very specific work' because that's what those saws in between 50 and 90cc shine in. They're light enough to run all day. Nimble enough to limb (as to not have to change out saws constantly) and powerful enough to pull 28" for both falling and bucking larger diameter trees.
50cc saw isn't going to pull 24" bars very well, which is what 'most' people prefer wehn felling. 90cc saws are too heavy to carry around and do anything other than bucking big wood with. So...I disagree with your assessment that 'most' people don't need any saw within, arguably, the most capable area of saws being produced today. Doesn't make much sense to me.
Have a re-read of my post
I see what you're saying now. However, it's worded it very odd. I guess it does makes sense, but you could have said it in a way that was much easier to read and understand IMO.Have a re-read of my post
I only had to read it 4x to get it lol
I even re-read it before I posted because the statement was so confusing.
Sloughfoot
ArboristSite Lurker
The saws that came out 20-30 years ago and are no longer made that you can still get OEM parts for are the best.
The list is short.
The list is short.
The best way to run old saws like I want to do was lay away a big bunch of parts, enough to totally rebuild any model I have in my collection, bought up the parts when they were readily available, just about six of everything, cylinders,pistons, crankshafts all body parts, carbs modules etc you get the idea.
My recommendation
USA / Canada: 462 w 18 & 25 inch bars
Australia: a 50cc 16” bar and 90cc 25” bar (I don’t see an advantage of anything smaller than 50cc for the timber here and when the timber is above the capability of a 50cc saw, I jump straight to 90cc’s. I don’t see any need for a saw between 50cc - 90cc for native timber)
Europe: 261 w/ 18” bar or 362 w/ 20” bar
That’s hopefully a bit clearer.
The list is long for anything inside of 30 years, and more so for any of the popular saws. Stihl and husqy made so many models that shared parts with other models in the pro/semi pro line ups. Given there are some goof ball models that faded into obscurity, anything popular isn't hard to find parts for.
Sloughfoot
ArboristSite Lurker
On MY list there are 3 or 4 Stihls, 2 or 3 Huskies, maybe a Dolkita or two.
