What kind/size of tree can we get for $600? Should we?

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Before you decide whether to replace or not, you need a definite decision on the root and branch issues. Can you post pictures of those two areas, so we know what we are talking about? Maybe we'll see why Cambistat was recommended--did one of the companies have a name like the thing that Dorothy went over on her way to Oz?:heart:

btw, the next person who calls tuliptrees "brittle" :blob2: will get a branch (which I'll have to prune off with a saw because the 50 mph wind out there right now only breaks teeny twigs off of it)put where the sun don't shine. I have a 80' specimen 10' from my window and it is just fine, thank you. They don't grow so well in MN tho. :(
 
No!!!

Out of curiosity, what's everyone's opinion of the Hybridized Poplars? Those always seemed to be a popular pick of the suburban landscaper to get something growing fast. However, I always thought they weren't very long-lasting trees. The nursery here said they've made a lot of improvements with the new hybridized varieties. Any thoughts?

Hybrid poplars, IMHO, are not a good tree for the residential yard. The roots will ruin any nearby foundations, walks, patios, driveways and drain tile. They also have a lot of surface roots that make lawn mowing a teeth rattling, washboard experience. Again, IMHO, hybrid poplar are a woodlot tree.
 
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Can you post pictures of those two areas, so we know what we are talking about? Maybe we'll see why Cambistat was recommended--did one of the companies have a name like the thing that Dorothy went over on her way to Oz?

Last fall, the arborist from the 'land of oz (wink, wink)' recommended we actually fertilize. This spring, the 'other' arborist suggested that we shouldn't, as we want to slow down the crown growth and let the roots heal from the construction and girdling.

Here are the photos.
our_tree.jpg


Clockwise from upper left:
- our 5 year old practicing to be an arborist
- a closer view of the main Y fork
- one of the girdled roots. This one was chiseled by the last aroborist to kill it and eventually pry it out.
- a bad shot trying to show the distance from the house
 
Ya know, I loved climbing trees as a child, but now that I look at the photo, I realize my young'un is a fair way up there. Makes me think that climing maybe should be DISCOURAGED in this case. Another argument for replacing...
 
Ya know, I loved climbing trees as a child, but now that I look at the photo, I realize my young'un is a fair way up there. Makes me think that climing maybe should be DISCOURAGED in this case. Another argument for replacing...
Please ENCOURAGE the youngun to climb SAFELY! Get herm a kiddie saddle and rope. Better yet get yourself one tree too and join in the fun!

OK now the tree:

The fork is not that tight. The small lead definitely is codom and needs to be pruned away from the big stem at the top. The big stem needs to be pruned away from the house. All small cuts, could all be done in one hour by an arborist with pole tools and sense. "minimum $300 charges for pruning."? DIY

Roots--why that girdler was not pulled off I can't imagine. Root tissue seldom grafts to stem tissue so it should comme right off. There are other root issues beneath that need to be dealt with. They do not look too severe, but the root issues need to be exposed and corrected. pull that one off, remove more dirt, and take more pics (excellent job with those btw)

It's a great tree-you are right to keep it.
 
i actually fell out of a tree, a catalpa, trying to collect those seed pods and broke my arm when I was 4. I will never forget that tree. It provided hours of entertainment.
 
The fork is not that tight. The small lead definitely is codom and needs to be pruned away from the big stem at the top.

Glad to hear that the fork might not be that tight. Not sure what you mean by 'small lead definite is codom' though. Can you explain that?

Roots--why that girdler was not pulled off I can't imagine.

The arborist that chiseled it away couldn't rip it out with the claw hammer. He suggested I get out a pry bar and see if I can get it off. He thought that there might be some small offshoots holding it in.

but the root issues need to be exposed and corrected. pull that one off, remove more dirt, and take more pics

I'll do that and report back!
 
Not sure what you mean by 'small lead definite is codom' though. Can you explain that?
tHE SMALLER STEM IS FIGHTING THE LARGER STEM FOR DOMINANCE. If it is clipped short at the top, then the main stem can dominate. Red lines in the picture are sorely needed--any photoediting volunteers out htere?
The arborist that chiseled it away couldn't rip it out with the claw hammer. He suggested I get out a pry bar and see if I can get it off. He thought that there might be some small offshoots holding it in.
Well then the logical next step is to expose and cut those offshoots and get the girdler out of there so the rest can be seen. It befuddles me that arborists think nothing of pruning limbs but they are so hypersensitive about pruning roots.

Job #1 of diagnostics, and planting--Find the Flare!
 
Ill throw my $.03 in here, but not from an arboists stand point. If you can save the tree then by all means do so.

That being said $600 can buy a very nice, probably 6" to 8" DBH tree spaded in. Im not going to offer any suggestions on species because I dont live in your climate. Keep in mind in your $600 dollar budget youll have the removal of the tree you currently have. You dont need to have the stump removed as the spade can pluck that when they take the plug for a new tree.
 
treeseer...thanks for the clarification. That makes a lot of sense. As for the root issue, the arborist spent about 45 minutes of free time out there digging out the roots. He certainly went beyond what I was expecting for an estimate, so I don't knock him for not digging out the heavier tools. ;o)

Casey...an 8" tree would be great! Alas, I don't think there's any way to get a spade in there. Our front yard is inaccessible via vehicle and there's a steep 3' hill in our back yard as well, so no easy way to get anything but a small bobcat in there.
 
Sounds like youve got a handle on the situation.

I used to run a Big John 90" spade and on occasion a Big John 55". Youd be surprised where one can put a 90" spade. Everyone once in a while the farm manager would rent out his smaller skid mounted spades, 28", 36" to do transplants on customer sites. If you do end up losing that tree, look into it, if you want.
 
, the arborist spent about 45 minutes of free time out there digging out the roots. He certainly went beyond what I was expecting for an estimate, .
Good Grief. Is his bank going to let the house payment slide this month because he is a nice guy? He demeans the profession by doing all that for nothing. \anyway, time for you to get out the tools--or call him back and pay him for his time to finish!:bowdown:
 
Plant a Catalpa...you'l have to check - you may be at the upper end of their hardiness zone. They have huge leaves and flowers. They are used as steet trees quite a bit in Chicago and stand up very well. As far as growth - how does 5ft per year sound with showy flowers taboot? Terrific trees and good in an urban environment.
 

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