What part of the saw actually dies?

[MervMaster]

I'm going to do some milling with a 55 cc saw.

Not because I think it's a particularly good idea, but because I'm obsessed with the idea of milling and my Alaskan comes in on Monday.

I know it wears saws out prematurely, but what part of the saw actually wears out? The piston, rings, carb, cylinder?
I can't imagine much else Being a problem.

Maybe I'm just too I'll informed to know the answer.


Thanks for your time.


I'm never in a hurry, I'm just moving fast.

 

[sachsmo]

In the case of a 55cc saw, I would look real close at the clutch.

Milling is hard on even the largest saws ever made.

You can mill with a mini Mac if you have patience, and a sharp chain!

 

[brokenbudget]

milling with a 55cc saw? good luck. anything wider than 14-16"......
there goes the clutch.
there goes the piston.
there goes the crank bearings.
the little saws don't like being ridden like that. best find a bigger saw to do the same job. saving you money in the long run.:msp_smile:

 

[MervMaster]

But if clutch piston and bearings are all that's gonna go, whats the sum total of those parts? I'm thinking less than 100 bucks.
You can pick up a whole new cylinder and piston kit for 60-75, a big bore kit for an 029 is like 100. and clutches come cheap.

My point is that I can do the mechanical work myself. so why spend 600 bucks I don't have on an 076 that might already be beaten into the ground?

Unless someone can show me where to get an 80+ cc saw that runs for 300 bucks, I might as well just run the ones I have and replace parts as needed.

This is my thinking. I hope someone will correct me, because I really would like a bigger saw anyways.


I'm never in a hurry, I'm just moving fast.

 

[brokenbudget]

But if clutch piston and bearings are all that's gonna go, whats the sum total of those parts? I'm thinking less than 100 bucks.
.

you need more education if you think thats all.
better off just getting the bigger saw.
how many times would you be willing to tear the chainsaw apart? not saying the piston is going to go out every time you fire the saw up, nor am i saying the clutch is going to fry once you hit the wood. you also have to think how hard it's going to be on YOU using that little saw. your thinking on this is just plain wrong. trying to make excuses to use a smaller saw for milling is a cop out. YOU NEED A BIGGER SAW period. no reason to overthink. no reason to think about it at all. you need a bigger saw if you going to do any type of milling.
if it were a thing you were going to do every once in a long while for small pieces (see post above) then i might be ok for short runs. anything more than that, you need a bigger saw.
not trying to sound like an a$$, just telling you from experience, you need a bigger saw to mill with properly. you don't know how much power it takes to mill. 50cc ain't near enough.

 

[MervMaster]

Excellent, that's what I needed to hear. Having gotten that out of the way, what saw do you use?


I'm never in a hurry, I'm just moving fast.

 

[brokenbudget]

Excellent, that's what I needed to hear. Having gotten that out of the way, what saw do you use?


I'm never in a hurry, I'm just moving fast.

my smallest saw is a 6400 dolmar. mostly just for the small stuff. i use a solo 694 and a husky 2101 for the big and bigger stuff.

 

[deerlakejens]

Husky 2100's are rugged and run forever but can routinely be picked up for well under $300. Is this just because of their weight? I love mine for pulling a 36" bar in fir, can't figure out why they don't hold a higher value, except of course for age.

 

[bobt]

Tell you what to do.

You can experiment a little with your 55cc saw by simply trying to rip a log freehand.

Just go all the way down the middle of,,,say a 10' log.

I am almost sure that you will see how slow and difficult a task this is.

Now consider doing this over and over as if you were cutting this log up into lumber.

I bet you will see that a larger displacement saw is in order.

Bob

 

[brokenbudget]

Husky 2100's are rugged and run forever but can routinely be picked up for well under $300. Is this just because of their weight? I love mine for pulling a 36" bar in fir, can't figure out why they don't hold a higher value, except of course for age.

they still hold a good price for their age.:msp_smile: still a very viable saw to work with considering i haven't seen a more 'modern' saw out run one. they are very torqy and have good chain speed. the only downfall i can see is parts availablity. they are getting scarce.
far more power than any 066 or 660 i've owned. also way tougher.:msp_smile:

 

[betterbuilt]

Well I missed a good one. As said before Bigger is better.

What size logs do you have? What size mill did you order?

You can get a saw for $200. Here's proof.

 

[sachsmo]

The one on the right $50 bucks (it's a long story)
And no, that is not the bar we use for milling.

 

[hamish]

Tossing in my wrench

Yes plain and simple bigger is better and more efficent for milling. That being said, in the early 90's I milled enough softwood (pine and cedar) to build 2 small sheds, 10x12 and 14x14. The only material that wasn't milled was the tin on of the roof and all the nails holding it together, and was milled with a Husky 257, with an 18" bar and .325 chain. It did the job I asked of it and I had a blast doing it.

Take your time, de-tune your saw, be as mechanically sympathetic as you can and go at it.

I have a BSM now, and even though had sold my Alaskan along time ago I have gotten another one, so I can get the logs I cant move smaller so I can get then to my mill, and for making timbers places I would never get a mill to or get the logs out with out air support!

Alot of it has to do with what you are milling, how you are milling it, and when you are milling it.

 

[gemniii]

I don't know what part dies first.

I started milling w/ a 62CC saw and a 28" bar. I could easily mill 14" wide red maple 8' long. Larger, like 18" was possible, but REAL slow.

Make sure you mod the muffler if it will help, run it rich, make sure the chain is well oiled, stop to sharpen it often (this gives it a rest), and don't try extremely long cuts.

If you can stick to softwood you'll do fine. Oak that's dried for two years could be a different story.

Then do what I did and get a pair of modded 660's

 

[820wards]

MervMaster,


YOU NEED A BIGGER SAW period. Your gonna burn that 55cc motor up, then you will have no saw at all.

jerry-

 

[MervMaster]

Yes I agree. I'll sell some stuff I guess. Thank you everyone for your honesty.

If you wouldn't mind, I can't seem to find anything like a jonsered model list. Is there a high cc jonsered good for the job? Just weighing my options, I'll probably go for an 066 or 075 or the like.


I'm never in a hurry, I'm just moving fast.

 

[BobL]

Given that there are long term millers on this site that have milled lots of small stuff with 50 cc saws I disagree that one absolutely needs a bigger saw to undertake some CS milling. The primary reason one needs a bigger saw is to mill bigger logs, but if the logs are small and short a small saw can cope provided it is treated right. Just don't expect it to be fast, . . . . well, realistically . . . . no CS milling is what I would call fast.

 

[MervMaster]

Thanks bob. That's what I figured, and it's not as if I wasn't gonna try it anyway.

Appreciate the help.


I'm never in a hurry, I'm just moving fast.

 

[DiscoInferno]

I've milled 22" diameter mulberry and walnut with a 455 Rancher. Slow, but not completely unreasonable. Don't know how much of that the saw could take, though. I milled similar-sized maple and hemlock with a Husky 359, the maple was very slow but the hemlock wasn't too bad. Next I moved up to a Makita 6401 ($225 used from Home Depot Rental Dept.) to mill some tulip poplar (again 22" diameter, I never seem to come across anything smaller). Very reasonable speed, it's definitely a step up. Next step is to upgrade the Makita with Baileys' $99 BB kit (84cc).

Bottom line - if you're careful (let the saw idle a lot, run a little rich, run 40:1 or less, etc.), you'll want to get bigger saw just for the increased speed before you actually break your smaller saw.

 

[maccall]

If you wouldn't mind, I can't seem to find anything like a jonsered model list. Is there a high cc jonsered good for the job?

Jonsered 2186 is the same as Husqvarna 385 at around 85cc, and Jonsered 2188 is the same as Husqvarna 390 at around 90cc. There's probably some older models that might fit the bill too, but I don't know anything about the older models...