What repairs/adjustments, if any, did your ex-rental makita 6401 need or get?

[KiwiBro]

Hi Everyone,

Being unable to afford a new saw, some great blokes have suggested a few options, one of which is along the lines of a 6401+84cc BB kit, the other is a used 395XP. So I thought I'd take a closer look at the first option here, if you don't mind.

Given that plenty of people have gone down this ex-rental road, I was wondering if there were any trends developing about common parts and adjustments that may have been needed or desirable to get or keep the saws in great working condition?

Or if you just replaced something b/c heck, the saw was cheap enough and you noticed the part was a little worn, please can you advise what you've done to it?

I'm trying to get a handle on what costs I might (not will but might, based on any repair trends) be up for in addition to the saw and BB kit if I'm able to go this route.

Thanks in advance and hello to all those who know me from across the road and/or have helped me so much in the past.

 

[K.C.]

From personal experience and what I have read about here, you will need to replace the bar & chain - they provide safety chain only (liabilty reasons), and the bar has probably been abused.

That said, I just bought one and beyond that issue my chain oiler is non-functional. I am in the process of tear-down so not sure what the issue is but a replacement oiler assy (if needed) can be had for $45.

Buy one of these as a project saw and you will not be disappointed since you know going in that you will be working on it to improve it. I am going through mine from the ground up with intent to install the 84cc kit. Mine was tuned rich, virtually no scarring on the piston, cold compression at 180 and it starts 2nd or 3rd pull (including the first tug with choke on).

 

[Rudolf73]

I got myself an ex-rental HD 6401 last year which had done a lot of rentals by the looks - probably one of the roughest looking used saws I've bought. It started after the first few pulls and has been running great ever since. The only thing i have had to replace was the clutch drum bearing I assume it didn't see much grease during its life.

The saw now has a BB kit and is a lot of fun to use - my no. 1 felling/bucking saw.

If you are looking at buying a used saw then this is definitely great value for money with the option to upgrade to 85cc. But in saying that, the stock 6401 is no slouch either, its the strongest 64cc saw i have run.

 

[SkippyKtm]

From personal experience and what I have read about here, you will need to replace the bar & chain - they provide safety chain only (liabilty reasons), and the bar has probably been abused.

That said, I just bought one and beyond that issue my chain oiler is non-functional. I am in the process of tear-down so not sure what the issue is but a replacement oiler assy (if needed) can be had for $45.

Buy one of these as a project saw and you will not be disappointed since you know going in that you will be working on it to improve it. I am going through mine from the ground up with intent to install the 84cc kit. Mine was tuned rich, virtually no scarring on the piston, cold compression at 180 and it starts 2nd or 3rd pull (including the first tug with choke on).

Check out post 50, they have rebuild kits for the pump (thanks to tdi-rick):


http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/166626-4.htm#post2819339

Probably the worst problem I had with a HD rental 6401 was that it had a broken flywheel key and the flywheel moved to a new location- someone must of activated the chain brake while it was wide open.

 

[mtngun]

I got one that was beat up pretty bad.

The oiler was not working when I received it. All the oiler parts were intact, but it was just dry and corroded. After tearing it apart and cleaning it up (not once but several times), it finally started pumping oil, and it's been working fine ever since.

Oil leaked badly from the case when the saw was sitting. I replaced the oil output line, but oil continues to leak around the oil line going into the tank. It probably needs replacement, but since money is tight, I may simply seal it with hondabond or something similar.

The clutch drum bearing needs to be replaced.

I may have to replace the carb boot. It's intact, but when doing a leak test, everything passes except for the boot/carb junction. The rubber seems to have taken a set and doesn't push tightly against the carb no matter how much you tighten the bolts (the flimsy plastic boot flange doesn't help matters).

When I received the saw, it was running lean even after I richened the H to the max allowed by the limit tab. Needless to say, I pulled the H limiter and trimmed the tab.

The original piston was scored -- it ran pretty good nonetheless -- but it will be getting a BB kit as soon as I convince myself that the carb boot problem is fixed. I'm not sure that the scoring was due to an air leak -- it could have been due to the seized oiler, or due to the lean tuning -- but I want to play it safe.

Overall, I'm impressed with the saw's design. The air filter system seems better than any other saw I've used (it'll be getting the HD kit nonetheless). Very little sawdust finds its way into the filter area, and no fines have made it past the filter so far.

The only design issue that bugs me is the plastic carb boot flange.

 

[jra1100]

I bought one three or four years ago, and it was pretty rough looking. The bar was shot, and had a POS safety chain on it. I cleaned it up and took the bar and chucked it, and ground off the safety bars on the chain and sharpened it. The oiler leaked like crazy, but it just needed adjustment. Also the bar nuts were a mess, looked like a vice grips had been used on them. I ground off the high spots and the wire brush made them look semi presentable. The thing started and ran like a top. I had intended to make it into a BB, but it runs so good that I still haven't done it. I believe in not fixing that which is not broken. Besides I have a SP125 and 3 Jred 920's to do the big stuff with. This has become my go to saw, it always goes with me to the woods. I picked mine up for $160 on ebay, guy bought it at HD on the rental swap out, and just wanted to get his money back, he thought that there was something wrong with the engine, and sold it for parts. Said it ran fine but that the chain smoked and wouldn't cut. Not much chance of getting one for that price now, unless it is a parts saw like mine and the seller didn't know squat about chainsaws. Also this was before the Makita became sort of a cult following saw. If you find one and get it you won't regret it. JR

 

[blsnelling]

IMHO, any saw should be gone through entirely. That's the only way you'll know what you have and be able to trust and depend on it.

 

[parrisw]

IMHO, any saw should be gone through entirely. That's the only way you'll know what you have and be able to trust and depend on it.

:agree2:

I have one. Though it was in real good shape when I got it. Traded it for some machine work, so all it cost me was a little labor on my lathe. I've since put a BB kit on it and ported it, and a HD filter kit, and the saw is very impressive.

 

[Deer Assassin]

bought mine bar and chain was junk other than that it was/ is in great shape

 

[angelo c]

I just rescued one last week. A landscaper had it and hated it. He also had an 026, 024,025 and this 6401. He said he only wanted real saws and this blue makita thing was junk. I said I'll take it, throw it in the back of my truck and here's a few $ to take away your problems. I never even pulled the cord. Later that afternoon I took it out looked it over and fueled it up and ran it. Runs like a raped date. Still has the "factory" HD bar but a chain was replaced at some time as it is not a "green" bumper pool chain. I had forgotten how much I loved the 6401 stock. I have a BB as well and realized this is a pretty impressive saw as it is. NO problems with either yet. Although the BB will leak bar oil if I don't open up the flippy...ooops twisty cap...after the days use.

 

[KiwiBro]

That said, I just bought one and beyond that issue my chain oiler is non-functional. I am in the process of tear-down so not sure what the issue is but a replacement oiler assy (if needed) can be had for $45.

Thank you. It seems to be a common theme. Could you please post back here anything else you find along the way? Thanks.

 

[KiwiBro]

Check out post 50, they have rebuild kits for the pump (thanks to tdi-rick):


http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/166626-4.htm#post2819339

Awesome, thanks.

 

[KiwiBro]

To summarise thus far:

from this and other threads I've read, likely replacement/attention candidates include:

1. B&C (that's a given for me anyway as it's prohibitively expensive to ship more than the powerhead to NZ, and I know some Aussie chainsaw guru who's got my chain needs sorted). The bars will be Tsumura - I'm smitten with them.

2. Oiler - that repair kit sounds like the way to go, thanks.

3. Clutch bearing

4. Maybe AV mounts

5. Carb' boot. I seem to recall that being an issue on other dolkita models.

Additional worthwhiles:

HD filter kit.

 

[KiwiBro]

Heck it's lively on here.

I had to dig three pages deep to find this thread.

First thought was 'heck, I've annoyed mods again somehow and they've dropped the thread', but that's an entirely different and pointless story not pertaining to this site.

:msp_laugh:

Thanks everyone for your replies. This place is like sawpedia.

 

[KiwiBro]

IMHO, any saw should be gone through entirely. That's the only way you'll know what you have and be able to trust and depend on it.

I doubt I've got the skills to go right through it and know what to look for, or how test it. But I do understand your point. Perhaps I'll get someone who knows what they're doing to give it the once-over.

Thanks.

 

[Stihl-Pioneer]

The one I picked up the clutch bearing was pretty well shot, so I got a new drum and bearing for it.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

looks like i came in after the curve on the HD rental saws. called all over and most people never even knew about them. anyone got any leads?

 

[K.C.]

Once I got the clutch off & oiler torn down I found that:

1) The needle bearing in the clutch drum needs replacing
2) The clutch springs need to be replaced
3) The oil pump drive needs to be replaced
4) Oil pump rebuild kit should be installed

Essentially this saw shows signs of clutch overheating (and lack of bar oil!) so I will proably replace the clutch ass'y, drum & bearing. The reason my oiler was not pumping is because the "wings" on the drive were melted and curled down so the tabs on the drum were not spinning it.

Manually spinning it by hand produced oil at the bar mount so the pump still works but since it's already torn down & the kit is under $9 I'd be a fool not to do it while I'm in there.

Other than that the saw is in very good mechanical condition. The piston & cylinder are clean wih no scoring, intake boot is clean with no cracking evident, AV mounts are in good condition and no broken pieces on the case.

The only other things wrong with mine (that I have found) are the muffler has a secondary outlet in the form of a "chain nick", and its missing the "chip guide", as most of them are to my understanding.

The saw starts right up and runs strong. It cuts well given that it has the safety chain on it. I will try to get pics up soon.

Anyone got a 6400/7900/9000 muffler they don't need or want???

 

[parrisw]

If anyone needs a good 6401 P&C I got a good one, that I don't need.

 

[MCW]

Do you still want me to chase a 6401 up for you Hundy?
I think you do but will await your reply.

If anyone needs a good 6401 P&C I got a good one, that I don't need.

Why did you take the 64cc top end off Will ?